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Weber carb rebuild or replace?


Shortmorris

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I looked around a few of the carb threads but didn't find anything necessarily relating to my situation.

I recently bought a 79 Datsun 620 and while it runs pretty well, from what I can tell, there are a few things I know need to be addressed. 

The first and foremost is the throttle linkage to the carburetor. It looks to be a Weber carb, but the connection to which the throttle cable connects is some Jerry rigged shenanigans. It's pieced together with some bolts, flat pieces of metal and a cotter pin that dangles over some components. It has already caught ones for me, and once for my friend that helped me buy it. When it catches it is at about 1/3 throttle and won't let go easily.

My question:

Is there a part I can replace this nonsense with or do I need to replace the whole carburetor? *I'll post pics in a few minutes when I get back to my computer*

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Looks like your picture is dead, friend.

 

You can buy throttle linkage kits on eBay and whatnot. Obviously, you'd have to make it work, but at least you'd be using components made for the purpose.

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6 hours ago, ducky said:

Looks like your picture is dead, friend.

Like you can't see the picture? I am new to this forum host and it was a bit of a pain to post a picture. It shows up for me when I open the thread...

 

 

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19 hours ago, Shortmorris said:

Like you can't see the picture? I am new to this forum host and it was a bit of a pain to post a picture. It shows up for me when I open the thread...

 

 

Correct. Looks like a broken link. I like to use imgbb for hosting. Might want to try that.

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I think I found the part/parts that I am looking for but is it a Weber thing or an original Hitachi carb thing? The part I am talking about is the 1/4 circle the end of the cable attaches to and any parts that attach it to the carb.174_500335e2a5b3e.jpg

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3/4 circle???

the Hithachi has a bar with a hole for the cable and a slot to get the cable in. to make fit a weber one has to oblong the holes so that cqble holder will fit on the weber.  What I did is that and also drilled a new cable hole so the cable goes straight into the cable puller  slot so its not at a angle.  or one can buy the weber version and it fits on the weber carb spacing and your done already

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So I haven't changed anything on the carb yet but it started idling at a high rpm. Without taking the carb of or apart it appears everything is still operating properly, the choke is open all the time though.

 

The idle speed screw is not touching the lever, and I tried turning in the idle mixture screw (less fuel?) And it continues to idle high. Is there anything else I should check before pulling things apart?

 

Not sure if it matters but a cap that was on the valve cover PCV connection feel apart right around the time I noticed, but putting my finger over it doesn't seem to change anything.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/6/2020 at 6:38 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Only thing worth replacing is the needle valve and a cell pump diaphrame

 

those might be the same

 

call them

I finally got ahold of them and they sent it a replacement kit. I was looking through the different parts before sending the 38 kit back and noticed the part number for the accelerator pump diaphragm were the same but there were two different version.

Would there be any reason to keep one over the other?

20200923-162702.jpg

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Well, I was gonna razz you to buy a new accelerator cable before you do anything else, but looks like the 620 cable is NLA!  I wonder if the LATE 1979 cable would work, as listed on RockAuto OR the EARLY 1980 720 with the L20B?  I can see that the 720 (oval plate with two screws/bolts) mounts to the firewall differently than the 620 (thumb screw like a speedo cable), but we use the 720 style of cable mounting when we do a CA/SR/KA swap in a 510, so I know it can be done.  The 1981-on 720 is a NAPZ engine, so the cable is waaaaaaay longer to reach over to the passenger side where the carb is.

 

Hainz said it best..........modify a stock Hitachi bellcrank to fit the Weber or just buy the NEW Weber bellcrank.  If you need a stock Hitachi bellcrank, I have some, but cost & shipping likely equates to just buying a NEW one from Weber!

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Well I technically still need to get one of those too. I've seen about there different types so far, is there a particular one that is better and doesn't have to be modified to work with the stock cable or can be used with a cable that doesn't have an end on it?

 

https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=836

 

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99007.551.htm

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=181

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