Jump to content

Garry’s NL-320 project


garryk6

Recommended Posts

Here is my little SoCal find I acquired back in around 2001. It had been chopped up with Toyota running gear. Later I found a running driving L-320 with a J13 that a tree had fallen on the drivers cab so the top was cut off and the door removed and used as a yard truck till I bought it from Chino CA. In 2002/2003 I removed the body from the chopped up NL chassis and parted out the body from the L truck then removed the two unique NL body mounts from the NL frame and welded them to the L Chassis. Remounted the NL to the original L chassis and now have a near original truck. It ran and drove in 2003-2007 around the yard with the hand brake to stop and no lights connected. So now I need to do that and get the engine running again as it has sat since 2007 in storage at my dads farm. In 2005 or 2006 a few of us had a limited run of taillight lenses made. I found my set as I was going thru my part’s this weekend. Can’t wait to get this little rust free baby truck back on the road!!

Garry

687EF63D-0D7C-4967-9C27-0A82F3B109A5.jpeg

CD1F40B1-BE11-4919-9F14-C74A74F25977.jpeg

983D82DB-4C27-4F2D-8858-3CE8FFE0EE2D.jpeg

C5096E19-F869-4A90-AB7D-4232D5FD651F.jpeg

9FF1EFE1-6567-4071-A6C9-74221A7A06B2.jpeg

CA790A7F-DF8A-49E5-B038-152F2D37FC5A.jpeg

Edited by garryk6
  • Like 7
Link to post
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

That will be one nice ride; big smiles every time you drive it !!

 

The two old trucks that really wind my key are the NL320 and the 1961-63 Ford Uni-Body pickups. The Ford needs to be short bed with big back window; a really rare combination.

 

1963-Ford-Unibody-SWB-Big-Window.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post

Thanks everyone! Tonight I pulled the four rally rims off and put three roller 700x15’s from an old trailer and a new 195-65-15 that will become the matching spare. I put the rally wheels an four take-off Michelin 195-65-15 tires from my wife’s Jetta back in 2001. Three would hold air but were so cracked I wasn’t sure how long they would even hold air. The fourth held air long enough to winch on the trailer and then again to get it off. I won’t be able to move the NL till I replace the right front roller 700x15 as it will only fit under the fender with the wheel tuned just right. LOL. So I’ll be on the lookout for a decent set of 195-65-15 tires or a sale on new ones soon. Well time to get to bed. 4:00am comes mighty early!

Garry in Ellensburg 

  • Like 2
Link to post

I just threw away a set of original 620 wheels and tires. The tires were not cracked, and still had plenty of tread, but they were original. I tried to give them away here on Ratsun, but nobody wanted them.

 

FYI - if you want a "plus one" look on the wheels, find a set of solid axle Toyota 4x4 (pickup and LC) wheels. They are 15" and slightly wider than the stock Datsun wheels and some even have nubs for hubcaps.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Hey guys and gals! I finally found the key to the NL 320. She has new tires on her, charged a battery and at first the starter just spun but no engaging. I love the little bypass button on the solenoid. Was able to crank and lovingly tap with a hammer and then the Hendrix engaged and she was cranking. I had already disconnected the fuel line, connected to an outboard fuel tank and primed the carb. But cranked and no fire. No spark at the points but power to and through the coil down to the points. I’m thinking I have a bad condenser. Any thoughts? Thanks again!! Garry

61F455C0-5F99-43DB-A27D-85C114EBBCBC.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to post

To be honest I hate 320 distributors, they have given me nothing but headaches, I get it working and the engine running, but the next time I try to start it it has no spark again, I finally gave up on my distributor in the 1963 and bypassed the stock wiring(positive ground) and used a modified matchbox distributor in it and it started right up better than it ever had before, but that was only a temporary experiment to see if things got better and they did so I knew it was that crap distributor.

Then one day I was tearing down a MG Midget engine as I had no nibbles on it after putting it on craigslist, I took out the EI distributor and just stared at it, it looked just like the 320 distributor, so I pulled that crap 320 distributor out again and dropped this MG Midget electronic ignition distributor in it and it fit like it was made for it, so I bypassed the stock wiring again and timed it and wired it to run, and it started right up, but this didn't fix the positive ground issue, this MG Midget distributor had a Crane ignition in it, so while I was talking about this Crane Ignition system on my thread and about how I could hardly find anything about it another member chimed in with a link, it was about this Crane EI system, so while I was reading I came across a diagram that showed how to wire the Crane IE system positive ground, I put it back in the 320 again and wired it exactly the way it said to wire it and then started it, I could not believe it, it was wired positive ground and it ran great and it was charging, it started the easiest it ever had in all the time I owned the truck(years), I have never removed it since and after sitting months it starts right up without any issues once I charge the battery(old battery), keep in mind that all my classics have non-ethanol gas it them, so the gas does not spoil.

 

 

 

Edited by wayno
  • Like 1
Link to post

Clock !!

 

Check the insulator that isolates the bolt that transfers current from coil to the points where it goes through the distributor body. Someone had shadetreed mine and it shorted out going down the road which put me walking. Came up with a suitable insulator and drove it for the next year with no spark problems.

  • Like 2
Link to post
37 minutes ago, difrangia said:

Clock !!

 

Check the insulator that isolates the bolt that transfers current from coil to the points where it goes through the distributor body. Someone had shadetreed mine and it shorted out going down the road which put me walking. Came up with a suitable insulator and drove it for the next year with no spark problems.

I’ll look into it. It was running 12 years ago when I put it in storage. But anything is possible 

  • Like 1
Link to post
15 hours ago, wayno said:

To be honest I hate 320 distributors, they have given me nothing but headaches, I get it working and the engine running, but the next time I try to start it it has no spark again, I finally gave up on my distributor in the 1963 and bypassed the stock wiring(positive ground) and used a modified matchbox distributor in it and it started right up better than it ever had before, but that was only a temporary experiment to see if things got better and they did so I knew it was that crap distributor.

Then one day I was tearing down a MG Midget engine as I had no nibbles on it after putting it on craigslist, I took out the EI distributor and just stared at it, it looked just like the 320 distributor, so I pulled that crap 320 distributor out again and dropped this MG Midget electronic ignition distributor in it and it fit like it was made for it, so I bypassed the stock wiring again and timed it and wired it to run, and it started right up, but this didn't fix the positive ground issue, this MG Midget distributor had a Crane ignition in it, so while I was talking about this Crane Ignition system on my thread and about how I could hardly find anything about it another member chimed in with a link, it was about this Crane EI system, so while I was reading I came across a diagram that showed how to wire the Crane IE system positive ground, I put it back in the 320 again and wired it exactly the way it said to wire it and then started it, I could not believe it, it was wired positive ground and it ran great and it was charging, it started the easiest it ever had in all the time I owned the truck(years), I have never removed it since and after sitting months it starts right up without any issues once I charge the battery(old battery), keep in mind that all my classics have non-ethanol gas it them, so the gas does not spoil.

 

 

 

That’s my goal later on is to convert to EI with MG parts. Someone already converted to negative  ground so makes choices easier.  Thanks for the help. I am hoping to get it done and on the road by fall.

Garry

  • Like 1
Link to post

If you are already converted to negative ground then you can use a Matchbox distributor unless your truck is RHD, Mike did it in his NL320 thread, look at the first page, he shows how to change out the drive on the shaft.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
3 hours ago, garryk6 said:

That’s my goal later on is to convert to EI with MG parts. Someone already converted to negative  ground so makes choices easier.  Thanks for the help. I am hoping to get it done and on the road by fall.

Garry

 

I converted to a MG distributor and MG starter. They both look stock but perform better. For the distributor I'm using a rebuilt 1960s Lucas 25D and it drops right in, no mods needed, same hold down clamp and everything. They also make a Lucas 25D electronic dizzy if you want to go that route. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
1 hour ago, 320 Newb said:

 

I converted to a MG distributor and MG starter. They both look stock but perform better. For the distributor I'm using a rebuilt 1960s Lucas 25D and it drops right in, no mods needed, same hold down clamp and everything. They also make a Lucas 25D electronic dizzy if you want to go that route. 

Does the 45D fit like the 25D? Just curious if anyone knows or not. Thanks again!!

  • Like 1
Link to post

I believe mine is a 45D with a XR3000 Crane ignition (wired positive ground), I also have my extra J15 engine on a stand using the 45D with a XR700 Crane ignition in it(wired negative ground).

If your negative ground I would likely go with a Matchbox if you can find one and use your drive key on it, otherwise there are a bunch of cheap MG Midget distributors on ebay.

This is the type of setup I have on my extra J15 engine, but they want way too much money for it, I would not buy it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-MGB-Electronic-Ignition-Distributor-41695-41695A-Cap-Wires-Crane-Cam-XR700/163353504837?hash=item2608a0ac45:g:8EkAAOSwiwZb3hiz

 

Matchbox is the way to go if negative ground.

Edited by wayno
  • Like 1
Link to post

Matchbox dizzys are nice, but I used the remote ECM 1978 Datsun 620 distributor on my E1 with a mid 80's GM module mounted remotely. Converted the 78 'Bulletside' to the remote GM ECM also. Tried to use as many common parts for the 78 'Bulletside' and the 320 as I could so I could stock as few common parts as possible for future maintainence. The little 320 and the 620 hasn't missed a beat in over four years. How much will a Matchbox ECM or Nissan remote ECM set you back ?? GM's are bout 12-13 USD.

Edited by difrangia
  • Like 1
Link to post
14 hours ago, stevecar said:

Garry,

Any info on the clock? Do you think it is the correct clock option? You might have to do some detective work.

Steve

It is the factory clock and radio. I got the truck from owner number two who purchased it from his neighbor owner number one. It matches the information posted here on that NOS clock from THAILAND. 

Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.