My 620 build thread.

[J's 620]

S10 pulley next to an aluminum pulley that was too tall to use on the shorter pump. Same bolt hole pattern. 

[J's 620]

Unless I figure out what pulley I can use on the AW9009 (it has numerous apps.), I may have to reuse my water pump(240z?) and S10 pulley. OR....... order a water pump pulley for a (240z?) with the cast impeller. Cast impeller is why I chose the AW9009. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I know the 510 and 240 z pumps where slilghtly different in thickness or the fan hole spacing was different. also one need to check the height  so the fan belt is lined up right.

 

they both fit on the front cover just fine.

 

Edited August 31, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[J's 620]

I did some searching. here's what I found. the differences are: bolt spacing for the pulley, size of the pulley mount and hub center, height, and cast impeller depth. 

 the airtex/wells AW9009 fits the l16 510, a L20b 720, some 200sx years, and early 620's. I'm now just thinking get a cast impeller pump for my year (76) and cut the clutch off. its the height I need, and I know it will work. I'm afraid to get a cast 240z pump because the hub on the cast impeller sticks in deeper than a pump for a 4 cylinder. 

 my plan was to use my billet pulley and the taller AW9009 but my pulleys don't fit that pump. the shorter pump I have looks a lot like the z's pump and has a stamped impeller and I don't want to run that anymore. it may have caused the cavitation in my front cover.

[banzai510(hainz)]

it may or may not have caused the cavitation. really just running good 50/50 mix and changing out out every 3/4 years would have most likely prevented this.

 

I myself for the first 10years of owning Datsun just ran water and added anti feeze and never changed it out. Running tap water was liley the worst thing I could do but was young and dumb. Really it was being cheap running leaky Rads.

 

your right the hub runs closer!!!!!!  That's why I stuck with the 510 pumps and go the cast ones if possible.

However yours is Chinese(if going by the box airtex). Really need to get the Japan made units are the bearing are better. stamper or cast

Edited August 31, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[J's 620]

What’s a good source for the Japan made water pumps? I’ve been looking for an Atsugi but I don’t think I’m looking in the right places.

[banzai510(hainz)]

https://zcardepot.com/collections/510/products/water-pump-l16-l18-l20b-510?variant=31351265755249

this is a 510 water pump that uses the 4 blade 510/521 fan

the 551 part number is a Aisin unit. Japan for $48 might be able to find elsewhere? Amazon?

 

I seen Atsugi under the Paraunt Brand also if one can find those.

Edited September 2, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[J's 620]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

https://zcardepot.com/collections/510/products/water-pump-l16-l18-l20b-510?variant=31351265755249

this is a 510 water pump that uses the 4 blade 510/521 fan

the 551 part number is a Aisin unit. Japan for $48 might be able to find elsewhere? Amazon?

 

I seen Atsugi under the Paraunt Brand also if one can find those.

 I will look at zcardepot. Thanks Hainz, btw nice paint scheme on your motors, I like the yellow. 

[J's 620]

The one for a 510 has a smaller bolt hole pattern than the pulley I am using, and possibly a different centering hub size. 
 There’s a 5cm spacing and a 6cm spacing for the pulley bolt pattern. The 510 pump probably has the 5cm, the water pump I’ve been running is the 6cm spacing. I need a pulley from a 510 or 521 so I could use this water pump. The Chinese airtex AW9009 I planned on using has the smaller spacing with a smaller centering hub, so I’m probably going to send it back to rock auto. 

 My dilemma is as follows: find a 510/521/ pulley with the 5cm spacing and smaller centering hub hole, or keep using what I have, the z water pump (but it’s a stamped steel). 
I have plenty of time, the machine shop can’t give me a timeline on when my cylinder head will come back to me. 

Edited September 3, 2020 by J's 620

[J's 620]

Update: I’ve been painting parts and just preparing the block and everything I can for the return of my cylinder head. 
 The machine shop is so booked up and obviously disorganized, they haven’t sent my cam to delta, I don’t think they have done the light port work/ unshrouding the valves like I asked, and I hope to god they drill those coolant passages for me. I’ll do it if I have to. I just asked them to put it back together because it’s been about 7 weeks now I think. I should get it this week. 

[J's 620]

I’ve been working on my alternator, and trying to figure out what the heck it came from. I used to believe it was a GM/ Delco cs130. It is not. The stator measures out at 121mm so that would make it a cs121. The cs130 has a 130mm stator and had anything from ~85-105 amps. The cs121 has 75-85. Maybe 90 amps. Looks like the Pontiac lemans with a 1.6L has a very similar alternator. The cs121/130 came in any GM vehicle from 86-95. They would have different housings and clocked positions according to application.

[J's 620]

 

 

Edited September 8, 2020 by J's 620

[J's 620]

I painted some parts with the VHT Pontiac blue. It’s very close to the OG Datsun blue. I found another guy on these forums that painted his block that same color and it looked good. 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2020 by J's 620

[J's 620]

I’m currently waiting on the rebuild kit I ordered from alternatorparts.com. They have the “iceberg” alternators but that housing only applies to the cs130. The rear iceberg housing does not have the mounting hole either so it couldn’t work for me. Stay tuned. 

[J's 620]

Sorry about the sideways pics, I didn’t realize they were going to come out sideways. That’s just negligence on my part. *fixed*

Edited September 8, 2020 by J's 620

[J's 620]

I even painted my fender emblems. The PO had painted them gold and I never really was feelin it.

[J's 620]

Here’s some progress pics!

[J's 620]

[J's 620]

Here’s my alternator set up. A few washers to shim my pulley in the right spot. It’s a bit janky but I know it works, I’ve ran it for a few years like this now. 

[J's 620]

In place of those washers I may make a spacer out of this cut off piece of stainless tubing. 

[J's 620]

Here’s the almost complete engine bay, I’m getting pretty close, I should be done today if there’s no leaks. 
I wrapped the exhaust manifold too, felt like a monkey fu****g a football wrapping it too but it looks really nice.

[J's 620]

I used silicone hose (vibrant brand) to replace my heater hoses. The crappy thing is the hose clamps I ordered are a butt hair too small so I wrapped the ends with thick refrigeration tape and used regular ol’ worm clamps. This stuff lasts a long time but is very susceptible to cuts and abrasion. It’s not cheap either.

[J's 620]

Here what I did for the air cleaner. I wanted to use the stocker, I hate the dinky little filter that comes with the Weber, soooo.....

 I ordered an adapter plate that fits the standard 5-1/8” neck, used one of those  hypertech power charger salad bowls, and chopped it down to about 1” I think, the height of the air cleaner housings drop down offset. Then JB welded it in place. 

[J's 620]

I’m also using a 1/2” carb spacer from Jegs to get the housing just above the carb. I may have been able to use a 3/8” spacer. 
 After fitting the filter housing in and closing the hood, I can see I should go down to a 3/8” spacer or even a 1/4”. The 1/2” is not necessary but does barley fit after removing that solenoid or whatever that is above the flapper that uses exhaust heat for warmup. I’m now thinking with a shorter carb spacer I can add my phenolic spacer. But the carb is a pain to remove and hey right now it runs. That blue metric to AN fitting runs to the charcoal canister filter. I have read on the mud forums that this carb is real boggy going up hill, so this should help. It will allow the excess fuel vapor to flow to that canister. At least that’s the idea. 

Edited September 17, 2020 by J's 620

[J's 620]

Here’s my air cleaner set up. I plan on plugging the old emission hose barbs for now, and get everything dialed in later on down the road. 
This set up BARELY fits under the hood!! I had to ditch the phenolic spacer for that extra 3/16” or so of space. 
 You can see from the pics that vht Pontiac blue is very close. The inside is OG Datsun blue, the outside is Pontiac blue. Hey close enough.

Edited September 14, 2020 by J's 620