CollinMB's RestoMod 521

[CollinMB]

The new ones are just the KYB ones listed on the parts # thread:

KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shocks - KG4605A

KYB Gas-A-Just Front Shocks - KG4511

 

I ordered the fronts and rears on Amazon. The ones that came off of the truck were so corroded that I didn't even bother to look, they were beyond blown. I haven't taken the truck out for a spin yet on the new struts, so no input yet on ride quality. 

[mrbigtanker]

Well , c'mon what does i look like now with the wheels and drop Dapper headlights and fender mirrors ? The suspense is killing me. I myself a, looking for a 521.

 

Looking good by the way.

[CollinMB]

33 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said:

Well , c'mon what does i look like now with the wheels and drop Dapper headlights and fender mirrors ? The suspense is killing me. I myself a, looking for a 521.

 

Looking good by the way.

Thanks man.

 

I'll get some pics soon as those things happen. The heat wave incoming might slow down some plans though

[mainer311]

1 hour ago, pidge said:

If you wouldn’t mind could you let me/us in on some shock info. Mines a 69 and looking at them shocks  I’m sure as heck there from 69. Would you happen to have any part numbers and or details where they came from? Any info as how they are in the road? Thanks. 
edit: I am digging those wheels. Don’t know why, but liking the colour. Maybe that’s doin it for me
-Pidge

They’re stiffer than the stock shocks because of the nitrogen pressure. Not horrible though. A lot of us run these same shocks.

[gene knight]

12 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yes, take a break. Burnout is a real danger and nothing kills a project quicker than burnout.

so true, i know for a fact about that, thats why i tinker with my barracuda fastback gasser or refurbish tail lights /dash tops for 521

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

15 hours ago, mainer311 said:

They’re stiffer than the stock shocks because of the nitrogen pressure. Not horrible though. A lot of us run these same shocks.

Gas charged shocks vs hydraulic shocks - gas shocks will add lift to a vehicle's ride height too. On old cars, I actually prefer old style hydraulic shocks, if you can even find them anymore.

 

Gas shocks, if too stiff, can cause "scuttle shake". That's when you hit small bumps at speed and the whole car feels like it's skipping across the bumps.

[CollinMB]

1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Gas charged shocks vs hydraulic shocks - gas shocks will add lift to a vehicle's ride height too. On old cars, I actually prefer old style hydraulic shocks, if you can even find them anymore.

 

Gas shocks, if too stiff, can cause "scuttle shake". That's when you hit small bumps at speed and the whole car feels like it's skipping across the bumps.

Good to know. I guess I'll have to see how I feel about them once I can drive around a bit on them. I don't have a point of reference since my shocks were just completely blown out and I wanted to make sure to get rid of driving a bounce house around. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I guess I should say gas shocks can add lift. They don't always.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I like the old Koni D shocks which is adjustable on retraction. Push down there is no resistance which many people think the shock is bad but pulling them back is adjustable from soft to I can’t pull it back. Plus rebuildable

 

i found a set of rusted konis but didn’t know they was still good. Fuck but I didn’t know back then

Edited August 1, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[CollinMB]

Ok, time for the story of the wheels.

 

As I previously mentioned, I am planning to convert the front to disc brakes, which require a 15"Ø wheel. Not wanting to break the bank, but also wanting to practice some DIY, I decided to get the cheapest new steelies I could find. $40 a corner later and:

 

Black is kinda bland IMO, so some paint was necessary. I wanted to do something with a bit of old school cool and not clash with the seafoam green. First up, prep:

 

 

Hit all the wheels with a scotchbrite pad and used alcohol to clean off any dust.

 

Paint:

 

 

off-white for the barrels and:

 

 

Gold for the centers

 

 

 

I might change them out for some aluminum wheels in the future, but for now, I am happy with how these came out and the colors work well with the truck. With all the work this truck still needs (see cancer in image above) these wheels will work just fine.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I like the look. They remind me of wood artillery wheels of the 1920s.

[mrbigtanker]

Very nice, now lower that thing. And those headlights look out of place. lol

[CollinMB]

3 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said:

Very nice, now lower that thing. And those headlights look out of place. lol

 

Sorry I'm not baller enough for Sev Marchal's. I'm not a super big fan of blocks and I'm too "poor" to afford bags right now. I'm just going to run it at stock height for the time being

[d.p]

48 minutes ago, CollinMB said:

 

Sorry I'm not baller enough for Sev Marchal's. I'm not a super big fan of blocks and I'm too "poor" to afford bags right now. I'm just going to run it at stock height for the time being

 

Sev Marchals $400 give or take for 4 of them so not all that expensive.  Also it's two blocks in the rear and torsion bars in the front.  Like $50 max to lower it for the time being and be done with that giant wheel gap.  Could park a buss in there.  

 

[d.p]

Wheels look good though.  

[CollinMB]

.....it's a truck?

[d.p]

10 minutes ago, CollinMB said:

.....it's a truck?

[mrbigtanker]

On 8/5/2020 at 4:00 PM, d.p said:

 

Sev Marchals $400 give or take for 4 of them so not all that expensive.  Also it's two blocks in the rear and torsion bars in the front.  Like $50 max to lower it for the time being and be done with that giant wheel gap.  Could park a buss in there.  

 

I just seen this post and its, 500.00 with shipping. And those Dapper lights cost a few bucks also. Its looking good. I see a Miata suspension switch in his near future.

[CollinMB]

XD. I've actually put off working on the truck due to the heat and I'm nearing mass production for my removable hardtop, so all energy has been on Miata stuff lately.

 

I need to overhaul the steering system and replace the bushings as the truck is still acting floaty. I'll probably work on that once temps drops below the mid 90's

[mrbigtanker]

On 8/23/2020 at 1:08 PM, CollinMB said:

XD. I've actually put off working on the truck due to the heat and I'm nearing mass production for my removable hardtop, so all energy has been on Miata stuff lately.

 

I need to overhaul the steering system and replace the bushings as the truck is still acting floaty. I'll probably work on that once temps drops below the mid 90's

Is it the steering box or all your tie rod ends. 

[CollinMB]

I'm not sure yet. All the bushings are pretty much gone so I'm just planning on replacing everything when I get to it. There's a noticeable dead zone in the steering, but I'll figure it out when I get a chance to dive into it.

[CollinMB]

A few updates:

In order to use the truck this fall/winter, I went out to give the truck a once over and fix up some small odds and ends that needed to be addressed. Started her up and pressed on the brakes and...no brake pressure -__-. Checked the reservoir and it's empty. So now I need to track down the leak and hope it's something loose and not broken.

In other interesting news, I went to help out a buddy and started a pile of parts:

 

For the keen eyed, yes, it's a Miata rear subframe and some other bits. I still need to go back and remove the front subframe and cut out the trans tunnel. I wasn't planning to do a Miata drivetrain swap initially as I wanted to set the truck up to be a bit more off-road capable. After doing the math on all the different things I wanted to do (Power Steering, disk brake conversion & booster, 4-link, add A/C, air or coilover suspension, engine swap), and remembering that there is a company that makes a long travel suspension kit for the Miata, it became more of a no-brainer. Also, parts availability is no longer an issue either.

This project will still be a ways out as I am not keen on pulling the truck apart and leaving it apart in a carport for an extended time, so it will have to wait until I have a garage to work in. Until then, I still need to get a welder and fix the rusted out panels and a few other planned upgrades and continue to collect parts.

[thisismatt]

Check the master cylinder under the dash as that's where you'll find fluid if the master seals failed (mine did this before).  Easy check before you start pulling all the wheels & drums off

Edited October 6, 2020 by thisismatt

[greenthumb]

Oooohhh. I love where this is going eventually. I’m too far down the rabbit hole already with mine, but if I had to do it over again, the Miata route looks terrific

[BrothersGarage]

I'm goin down a similar path so I'll be following closely.