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8.8 Rear end in Datsun (or Sunny )1200 question: Will it fit a stock floor?


EPTXDatsun

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So i am resurrecting my long-dormant project that involved swapping an F20C in to a '72 Datsun 1200. I am looking into a rear end upgrade, particularly the Ford 8.8 but not sure if it will physically fit underneath. Do I need to modify the floors to make it fit or would it work as-is if I have the vehicle lowered by 2-3"? TIA

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11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Hey Matt, Is the 8.8 differential offset to one side? Is it the 8.8 that you get another short side axle tube and axle and swap it with the long side to narrow it??

 

Ford Ranger 8.8 is offset. Only one side needs to be shortened, and are 5 lug.

The Mustang GT is center mount, and both tubes need a reduction, if its the Disc brake axle they come 5 lug. The LX came with 4X4.5" 

Edited by Mattndew76
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I use a Nissan H190 and my car, being a race car, has been lowered (I think it's 3 inches). The H190 is smaller than the Ford 8.8 and I had to take out the axle/pinion snubber to get and sort of suspension travel (2.5" of bump). The snubber is spot welded onto the car at the end of the drive shaft tunnel.  Keep in mind I have the  radius/traction bars so I don't need the snubber. 

 

You'll need to measure; I raised the rear end up (I disconnected it from the springs) to see what bottomed first, in my case it was the snubber. Currently the axle housing comes within about 5-6mm of the floor when it hits the bump stops.

 

A Ford housing is a good choice; while the H190 will fit but it's 3" wider than stock and can result in tire clearance issues (I uses a very short 20.6 Hoosier race tire to solve that) plus things like the LSD are expensive ($1300-$1500 used). You can buy the Ford stuff all day long for reasonable prices.

 

The only down side to the Ford axle is weight. I think they are about 140lbs, where as the Datsun H190 with alloy diff it 98lbs (using the Z alloy drums)

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Thanks guys. Gotcha. My concern is mainly the center section size as Tom1200 pointed out. I want this puppy to sit nice and low. I will have a look at the snubber. I figure I can always narrow it to my specs and have axles built for the 4x114.3 bolt pattern. Tom1200 is the pumpkin in an area of the cloor that would be simple to modify in case I need more clearance or is it in a structural area?

32 minutes ago, Tom1200 said:

I use a Nissan H190 and my car, being a race car, has been lowered (I think it's 3 inches). The H190 is smaller than the Ford 8.8 and I had to take out the axle/pinion snubber to get and sort of suspension travel (2.5" of bump). The snubber is spot welded onto the car at the end of the drive shaft tunnel.  Keep in mind I have the  radius/traction bars so I don't need the snubber. 

 

You'll need to measure; I raised the rear end up (I disconnected it from the springs) to see what bottomed first, in my case it was the snubber. Currently the axle housing comes within about 5-6mm of the floor when it hits the bump stops.

 

A Ford housing is a good choice; while the H190 will fit but it's 3" wider than stock and can result in tire clearance issues (I uses a very short 20.6 Hoosier race tire to solve that) plus things like the LSD are expensive ($1300-$1500 used). You can buy the Ford stuff all day long for reasonable prices.

 

The only down side to the Ford axle is weight. I think they are about 140lbs, where as the Datsun H190 with alloy diff it 98lbs (using the Z alloy drums)

 

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The pumpkin on the H190 just misses the box section that runs across the back of the car at the shock mounting location. The center section/housing on the H190 is about 10.5" tall.

 

So far I haven't seen any evidence that the housing is hitting the floor and I pound the kerbs mercilessly.

 

On a different note I'd love to know what a complete F20C actually wieghs.

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