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KDW_80-720

'80 720 L20B

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So, exhaust wasn’t even completed bolted to the manifold. Transmission mount wasn’t bolted down. And a whole other bunch of fun stuff. Would there be any reason why they wouldn’t put that engine plate on?

 

i should name this truck half ass because everything on it has been done half assed just to get it running lol

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14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Ginger or Mary Anne?

 

I would pull them together. Easier to get at. Drain transmission and remove rad. Maybe pull distributor cap and wire off so they don't get smashed.

That was my plan, I’ve just heard it either way I guess 

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1 minute ago, KDW_80-720 said:

So, exhaust wasn’t even completed bolted to the manifold. Transmission mount wasn’t bolted down. And a whole other bunch of fun stuff. Would there be any reason why they wouldn’t put that engine plate on?

 

i should name this truck half ass because everything on it has been done half assed just to get it running lol

 

Who knows the minds of previous owners (PO) There are probably a lot more Easter Eggs to find.

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JqiIp0n.jpg

 

There are two bolts at the far left (above right hand thumb) and one on each side of the block. Near index finger top and very bottom near the starter bolt that join the engine transmission. They look lined up and so are the two starter bolts.

 

Post a picture of the right side of the transmission

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Need this picture of yours...

 

347567885_LansZtrannybell002.thumb.jpg.c2f27171340f8709fb8d9f5b41d4934f.jpg

 

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OK just checking it was an L series transmission. You said it wasn't bolted down properly, thought it might have been a Z series instead. (you never know with this truck.

 

That engine plate looks close enough.

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13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

OK just checking it was an L series transmission. You said it wasn't bolted down properly, thought it might have been a Z series instead. (you never know with this truck.

 

That engine plate looks close enough.

Perfect.

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Is all of this excess stuff along with the other EGR delete does this need to be here as well?

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Unbolt the air tubes and plug the holes.

 

 

xVkEyEu.jpg

 

 

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Okay, I thought so but just wanted to verify before I started fuckin with iut.

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Welcome to Ratsun...

Don't forget to set #1 at TDC before removing the cylinder head. Use a proper wedging tool to hold the timing chain in place when removing the cam gear, this holds the chain tensioner from springing out, which can loosen the chain and detach from the crank gear teeth.  DO NOT REMOVE the camshaft towers if removing the camshaft, leave them in place unless absolutely necessary when removing the head.

There is some good information on this site regarding your vehicle. Just look under Forums, click General Discussion and then click on Manuals. Browse until you find the one that suits your needs.

 

Happy mechanizing!

 

 

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I assume you won't need to do any emission checks?

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On 6/26/2020 at 9:53 PM, KDW_80-720 said:

So, exhaust wasn’t even completed bolted to the manifold. Transmission mount wasn’t bolted down. And a whole other bunch of fun stuff. Would there be any reason why they wouldn’t put that engine plate on?

 

i should name this truck half ass because everything on it has been done half assed just to get it running lol

I get the impression the PO either tried to "fix" something but really didn't have a clue what they were doing or too many wobbly pops with unqualified helpers. The left-off engine backing plate wouldn't have happened otherwise. In either case, a quick slap together & put it up for sale was the result. Your job now is to sort through the various messes and fix it right. And there is LOTS of more qualified help on this site (datzenmike is great) to help you get through it.

 

The engine is best pulled complete with transmission, and that's most likely how you'll put it back in.

2 hours ago, Rat-a-tat-Dat said:

Don't forget to set #1 at TDC before removing the cylinder head. Use a proper wedging tool to hold the timing chain in place when removing the cam gear, this holds the chain tensioner from springing out, which can loosen the chain and detach from the crank gear teeth.  DO NOT REMOVE the camshaft towers if removing the camshaft, leave them in place unless absolutely necessary when removing the head.

Also some sage advise - you can eliminate some later headaches by doing the above before to start tearing things apart. If you're already planning to do a complete engine rebuild, then it doesn't really matter.

 

Are you limited by budget or time? Almost always one of those 2 if not both apply. Determines what some of your solutions could be.

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8 hours ago, EDM620 said:

I get the impression the PO either tried to "fix" something but really didn't have a clue what they were doing or too many wobbly pops with unqualified helpers. The left-off engine backing plate wouldn't have happened otherwise. In either case, a quick slap together & put it up for sale was the result. Your job now is to sort through the various messes and fix it right. And there is LOTS of more qualified help on this site (datzenmike is great) to help you get through it.

 

The engine is best pulled complete with transmission, and that's most likely how you'll put it back in.

Also some sage advise - you can eliminate some later headaches by doing the above before to start tearing things apart. If you're already planning to do a complete engine rebuild, then it doesn't really matter.

 

Are you limited by budget or time? Almost always one of those 2 if not both apply. Determines what some of your solutions could be.


 

so I got the engine out w/ transmission. Easiest motor I’ve ever pulled. I have a friend who builds tuned engines for Honda’s. He’s going to help me go through the motor and see what’s up. I’m planning on rings/valve seals but we will see what actually is up while in there. doing the clutch/slave/master while it’s all out. 
 

I need to get the PCV working, I had a thought for the block off plate, would it work the same if I were to use a thicker chunk of steel and grind a hollow point then tap? 
 

I have the diagrams for the timing wedge and stuff that I will make here when my friend is back from CA. I don’t know anything about the internal engine parts so I’m not going to tear into it myself quite yet. I can probably get the head off, but I don’t see the point since Idk what the hell im looking for when I get in there lol

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Personally if you have the motor out and going that far into the motor I would just pull the timing cover and not bother with the wedge..... 

Then you can reset everything properly and make sure it's all assembled correctly.... 

At this point I wouldn't trust anything the previous owner might have done....

 

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2 hours ago, KDW_80-720 said:

I need to get the PCV working, I had a thought for the block off plate, would it work the same if I were to use a thicker chunk of steel and grind a hollow point then tap? 

If you position your hole in the new blanking plate so it's over one of the existing ports you're good.

 

How do the peaks on the cam gear feel? Sharp & pointy? If so then you're going to need a timing set anyway. Your fingertips will give you a pretty good indication of wear on the surfaces - if you feel any ridges, burrs or grooves on any machined surface then you know quickly what you're faced with.

 

If you can, figure out what your rebuild budget might be and note the components you're going to have to replace. A band-aid rebuild is only good if you're just going to flip it to someone else, otherwise once you're into the internals it's a damn shame to skip something only to have it fail and then have to tear it all down again & spend $ on gaskets etc. you already bought once. Whether you choose to use RockAuto or elsewhere, it'll help you figure out your costs. This code for a 5% discount is good until Aug 23 (142986032125786538). Your friend could provide valuable assistance.

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Well again, I'm not 100% sure what I am looking for.  I can reference my FSM here tonight for teardown.  This is my first major overhaul so it's new to me.

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27 minutes ago, EDM620 said:

If you can, figure out what your rebuild budget might be and note the components you're going to have to replace

 

I'm not by any means over my budget right now.  I bought a lot of the front end/steering/clutch stuff.

 

I'm not 100% sure what I will need to replace, but I also don't know what to expect price wise for a rebuild on the engine itself.

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DL376RV.jpg

 

N0RARUg.jpg

 

Assuming the block off plate is already threaded for the PCV, and someone just couldn't aim a drill.... Borrow a die grinder or an angle grinder with a worn small diameter wheel and just cut a slot down from the hole in the intake so it intersects the block off plate hole. Make it 1/4" wide and done.

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So the head looks pretty clean. I don’t feel anything at all on the cam gear. Really smooth 

8E02932C-5B6C-4C13-896B-A2344573FDCD.jpeg

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