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thaibuddie

Ignition Coil Recommendation Wanted

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L16 in a 1973 510, I think everything is pretty much stock except for the Weber 32/36 DGC carb.  Dual points distributor with ballast resistor.  Secondary resistance test on the coil currently in the car way out of spec and *I believe* that is what is causing me major problems intermittently as I have replaced most other suspects to get to this point...

 

I searched a bit - just looking for a solid recommendation to get my car back on the road (recently resurrected from the dead).

 

Much appreciated, my 2yo loves riding shotgun!  Thank you!!

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Get another stock coil. Ballast should be about 1.5 ohms resistance same as coil. Both together about 3.0 ohms. Don't waste money on shiny after market coils, you'll never know the difference. Rattle can it red if you want but no one will see it when you drive by.

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I would prefer to reserve my last can of Racer Red for when my drum brakes need a re-coat...

 

Seriously though, that sounds simple enough but aside from trolling craigslist and ebay ... do you have any suggestions?

 

I'm hoping that I can find a replacement quickly, I'd rather be driving...does this listing apply?

 

MAYBE THIS?

 

Thank you!

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Yes, grab it. $10 is great.

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what is it exactly doing that you think its the coil?

 

stock coil is about 1.6 ohms and the ballast is 1.6 ohms.

 

If the coil is HOT when it goes out then you found the proplem. However I never seen 510 coil go bad. I seen 510s go bad putting in the wrong coil for a points ignition buring out the points or Blowing up a Unilite or Pertronix.

 

Im thinking maybe a worn out distributor bushing is more like the issue.  cracked fuse at the end in the fuse box when ignition is on.

 

Buy a point coil with at least 1.2 ohms or slightly higher

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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I was actually convinced that I had a fuel delivery problem (and may still) with a good startup and initial drive before hitting the freeway or hard driving conditions, then it can be really spotty.  But the last couple of drives it just dies after getting warmed up and there's no starting it... I pulled the air filter and can see that if I actuate the linkage - gas will shoot into the barrel(s) like it should.

 

Like I said most everything that had been neglected has been addressed, and it's running like a true 1.6 L bat out of 2020 HELL (at times when it wants to), but each and every drive it gives me serious sputtering and lack of performance under certain hard driving or initial load conditions.  Even rolling acceleration can be a problem from cruising(?) I had suspected a problem with the vacuum advance diaphragm (or fuel delivery), but now that it will not start (when warmed up) I'm pretty sure that it is something else.

 

I did not make it clear that there is some aftermarket ignition coil (pictured below) that I have no faith in.  I checked the secondary resistance and it was much lower than specified based on the YOUTUBE VIDEO that I was following (which I understand is not an L16) and the spec that my Haynes manual lists for the OEM coil.  I am more of an mechanic (not electrically inclined) - so maybe I am barking up the wrong tree...  I already purchased the Nippondenso coil that I had previously linked, so I am hoping that's the fix - I think I'll have it installed by early next week.

 

Any suggestions are appreciated, there is very little that hasn't been worked out here, so by all means chime in...

 

Thank you!!!

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if still running points run a point coil.

when his happens go to the center coil wire and place near ground and hit the starter and see if spark is gone, But sometimes this wont catch it as its bypassed on Start as thewire bypasses the ballast.

 

reseat the connections

 

during a load on a hill cuts out I think the fuel filter.

 

Give a Mexican tune up run it up to 5 k rpm and put a rag over the car to suck any debris thru the holes(might help)

 

 

tighten up the carb/ intake   cost nothing

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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Agree. Next time it quits check for spark. Coil may over heat and stop working. Take some ice water with you and pour over the coil body to cool it.

 

Coil should be (about) 1.5 ohms for points.  A coil used for an electronic ignition (EI) has a resistance of 1.0 or less resistance. This will draw 50% more current through the points than they are designed for, causing accelerated wear and pitting.

 

Vacuum advance adds ignition advance in relation to part throttle (high vacuum) and nothing at full throttle (low intake vacuum)

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All fixed.  It was the ignition coil which I replaced with a $10 Nippondenso coil that I purchased locally and came with it's matching ballast resistor.  With all the maintenance I've recently done it's never run better!

 

It is noteworthy that I was convinced that the intermittent troubles were a fuel delivery issue, but when it gave me multiple no-start conditions I knew that it was something else (as I could see that it was getting fuel).

 

Thanks to datzenmike and banzai510(hainz) for the replies, I will be posting here more regularly trying to get my 510 in the best condition that I can afford...it's been with me since 1998!

 

-Ti

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75% of ignition problems are carburetor related. 75% of carburetor problems are ignition related.

 

UnsteadyPoshConure-size_restricted.gif

 

 

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