Father/Son 77 Datsun 620 KC Build

[]2eDeYe]

Hope to soon, but it is a bit of a side project

[RustedRails]

Update: Got the cab off the chassis. This was pretty tricky, didn't have access to the hoist at the time so we raised the front of the truck up on the ramps, then jacked the back up, put some sawhorses I built under the cab and lowered the frame. Next we had to maneuver the chassis out from under the cab with a series of chess moves....all in all, was a great learning experience for both of us but at the end of the day, we got it done.

 

Chassis is in pretty good shape. There are no major issues that I can see rust wise. Most looks to be surface rust so once we get the suspension fab'd up, the whole thing will go to the media blaster. I know this project is moving slow but with both of us working, we get time in where we can. It's definitely coming along though!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 6, 2020 by RustedRails

[Draker]

Awesome!

[RustedRails]

Thanks @Draker!!

[EDM620]

It's a great feeling to get it down to the chassis, allows you to look everything over and determine what falls into the category of "gotta do now" vs "later". 

Definitely check the operation of your park brake cables as a couple of guys including myself have found the Left cable very difficult to obtain a replacement for.

[RustedRails]

@EDM620 yeah man, exactly. Thanks for that heads up. I don’t think it ever worked when I got it but after looking it over today, it seems like it wasn’t connected where it sits in the crossmember. I’ll have to take a better look tomorrow. 

[RustedRails]

Holy old thread! Welp....just like so many before me....the best intentions were met with reality of scope creep, budget and motivation. It's been a little over 3 years since updating this thread. Some of you follow me on IG which is where I post most of the updates on the 620 so if you are inclined to check it out you can find me at @77six20. I'm going to try and go back to where I last updated and post the progress from then.

Edited January 1 by RustedRails
grammar

[RustedRails]

So we planned on doing the KA24DE swap and picked up a block, and over the course of months..pretty much all of the misc pieces for the engine. Looking back, would have been so much less painful to get a complete and do a tear down vs finding each thing individually including bolts....what a pain. The good thing is I know every nut and bolt for these KA's now lol. Pic spam incoming...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 1 by RustedRails

[RustedRails]

Ended up acquiring a few blocks and a few heads in some deals and dropped them all off at the machinist to let them grab the best of the best lol. Here's a few pics of the process and the short block assembled. Really just wanted a stock rebuild and keeping NA. Ended up with an S14 head as the winner and decided to run the single jingle pistons.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 1 by RustedRails

[datzenmike]

That's an S13/14 block... heavier than the D21 Hardbody but they do have floating pins. Also those are KA24E pistons aren't they? This will jam the compression up.

[EDM620]

Doing any porting work while you're early into the head? Put your manifold gaskets up to the head & manifolds and see if there's room to match the ports up better than the factory did.

[RustedRails]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

That's an S13/14 block... heavier than the D21 Hardbody but they do have floating pins. Also those are KA24E pistons aren't they? This will jam the compression up.

Absolutely and yes sir, will def raise the compression.

[RustedRails]

33 minutes ago, EDM620 said:

Doing any porting work while you're early into the head? Put your manifold gaskets up to the head & manifolds and see if there's room to match the ports up better than the factory did.

 

Man, this was a few years ago now...I still don't have it installed yet but I really should have thought about that. I technically can still do it since it's still on the engine stand. Might think about that down the road.

[RustedRails]

Here's a few shots of the assembly, again this was a few years ago, just catching up on the timeline. I cleaned out the stud holes and ran a tap down each and surprisingly, they were all in great shape. I did end up having to fix one of the threads on the chain tensioner in the front as it was stripped when I got it. Pretty painless and worked great.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RustedRails]

Here's some shots of the intake manifold simplified, cleaned up and painted. Removed all of the EGR components and tapped/plugged the PCV ports. Will run the PCV to a catch can along with the valve cover vent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

9 hours ago, RustedRails said:

Here's some shots of the intake manifold simplified, cleaned up and painted. Removed all of the EGR components and tapped/plugged the PCV ports. Will run the PCV to a catch can along with the valve cover vent.

 

 

 

I would make every effort to keep the PCV valve functional so that fresh filtered air is pulled through the crankcase and the sweaty oil, fuel and water vapors are removed. Catch cans are a waste of time for this. Your oil change interval will need shortening to half without the PCV working, that's how important it is. Before '62 when the PCV was introduced the average oil change was about every 3,000 miles and you would be considered lucky to get 100,000 miles from an engine. Not all but a large part of that is from keeping the oil free of contamination of condensed vapors and combustion by products.

[RustedRails]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

I would make every effort to keep the PCV valve functional so that fresh filtered air is pulled through the crankcase and the sweaty oil, fuel and water vapors are removed. Catch cans are a waste of time for this. Your oil change interval will need shortening to half without the PCV working, that's how important it is. Before '62 when the PCV was introduced the average oil change was about every 3,000 miles and you would be considered lucky to get 100,000 miles from an engine. Not all but a large part of that is from keeping the oil free of contamination of condensed vapors and combustion by products.

Thanks Mike 

[RustedRails]

A little more progress.....decided to remove the rear round cross member and add some 2.5in square stock to the rear so I can move the fuel cell further to the rear. Will drill out the mounting holes after I get everything mocked up. The ends of the frame rails were a little bent, fixed em up a little with a BFH. Still need a little tweaking before I weld this bar in though. After sanding the rust from the bar that had been sitting outside for who knows how long, and sanding the rust in the frame channels in the back, it fit like a charm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RustedRails]

A little more work on the frame and fuel cell cradle. The fuel tank on this truck was shot full of pinholes so opted to go with a fuel cell. Whipped up an idea in sketchup and am working on building it now. Waiting for the rest of the metal to come in to finish up. Will be adding a horizontal strap over the top to keep it from bouncing up also (not pictured).

Sketchup draft

Angle iron layout

Edited February 11 by RustedRails
Additional info

[EDM620]

I expect you've already thought of this, but if not add some rubber shims between the frame and tank.

 

Project is coming along!

[RustedRails]

25 minutes ago, EDM620 said:

I expect you've already thought of this, but if not add some rubber shims between the frame and tank.

 

Project is coming along!

Thanks man, I have! I built the bottom cradle with enough space on the bottom and sides so I could add some rubber isolation strips linked below. I also plan on coating the bottom 1/3 of the fuel cell with under truck coating. Saw someone mention that and thought it was a good idea so between the rubber strips and the under truck coating, hoping it won't rub through.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-939520

 

[EDM620]

That's just like what I would have suggested.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Use some adhesive to one side of the rubber, or it will eventually slide out.

[RustedRails]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Use some adhesive to one side of the rubber, or it will eventually slide out.

I've read that, anything you recommend? I was thinking contact cement.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

20 hours ago, RustedRails said:

I've read that, anything you recommend? I was thinking contact cement.

Contact cement, rubber cement, even spray adhesive. The key is to let it tack up before putting the two pieces together.

 

Another is the red gooey stuff from Permatex. It is so messy though.