banzai510(hainz) Posted August 25, 2020 Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 (edited) 1/4 inch should be more than enough, charge the battery up. point gap is about .020 on the high side of the point lobe spark gas compression I would check the valve lash if you have never done it yet since you bought he truck. More or less have the cam lobe pointing up the rocker arms should wiggle, if wiggles then you know the valve is closed. Valve lash fell off another proplem, cracked valve is another for no compression reseat the connections on coil, ballast and behine the key switch if its a plug maybe ck the condenser connection and grounded good Edited August 25, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
ECS620 Posted August 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 Well after an afternoon of diagnostics I'm still none the wiser. I rented a compression gauge from the parts store. Over 100 PSI in all cylinders with little variation between. I didn't get to checking the valve lash yet. Bought some new spark plugs because the ones I pulled out looked pretty fouled (black, like from over-fueling). I gaped them to .032 as suggested in my Haynes manual. Also gaped the points to .020 They were at .016 earlier. Ground on the condenser is tight. Dist cap is clean, all contacts on the high tension wires are clean. I have an in-line spark tester and I'm seeing spark (barely) coming to all plugs. I have another Pertronix 40,000V 1.5 ohm coil I could toss on there and test, but the old battery I'm using is pretty drained again so I tossed it on the battery charger again. I'm just waiting to walk out there and see something obvious like a vacuum line missing. It's been a while since a motor has given me this much trouble. Thanks for your help. ECS620 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 I rarely change my dist cap or spark plugs on point dist its a worn out bushing. dist shaft wiggle. condenser bad(or loose ground) or point gap. Quote Link to comment
ECS620 Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 Well, I'm getting good spark (with new NGK plugs) and compression. I went ahead and threw a new inline fuel filter, high tension wires, and a new coil on there for the sake of a full tune-up. Today I realized the electric choke solenoid on my Weber 32/26 was getting pretty hot and I also saw a little fuel leaking out beneath the carb onto the intake. With fouled plugs and a potentially faulty choke solenoid I'm beginning think the initial hypothesis of a fueling issue was right, but I'm over-fueling instead of under-fueling. Pulled the new plugs today after trying to crank it over with the new wires and coil and they were wet. I'll try and find a new solenoid for that Weber and see if that clears it up. If not, Ill probably pick up a rebuild kit and go from there. Thanks for all the help Hainz! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 Gas shouldn't leak out from under the carburetor. See if the gasket or more likely, the adapter plate may be cracked or the bolts have come loose. This is a problem with the 32/36 adapters.. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 with everything new even with a leaky bad carb it should fire up esp with new sparkplugs but over time go bad in those situations. that would be a float bowl set too high. a weak spark is a weak spark. the choke coil is meant to be HOT that's how it works. carb leaky could be a acell pump diapram has cracked, when one cyles the lnkage then one might see this otherwise the only moving part is linkage and the plate. which don't leak. the needle valve stick could over flow the carb Quote Link to comment
ECS620 Posted September 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2020 I’ve been pretty busy and unable to work on the pickup, but today I found some time. I ordered a carb rebuild kit for the Webber 32/36 (mine is a DGAV) and popped the carb off. After pulling the top assembly off (where the float connects) I could see inside the bowl. Lo and behold a jet for the secondary was laying in the bowl. I proceeded to clean all the jets and the main body of the carb with carb/choke cleaner. I did not disconnect any of the linkage for throttle. I put a new power valve in, a couple new gaskets and bolted it back up to the truck. It fired up and ran well but I had to feather the throttle to keep it idling. After it died (when I took my hand off the throttle linkage) it won’t fire back up. I got a little fed up with it and called every shop in town. “We don’t work on carbureted rigs anymore.” Is the answer I got from most of them. I’m pretty sure this Webber just needs to be tuned now, possibly re-jetted ( I bought it at sea-level and now I’m at 2500 ft). Not sure what direction to head in now. Quote Link to comment
ECS620 Posted September 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 On 8/26/2020 at 6:18 AM, banzai510(hainz) said: I rarely change my dist cap or spark plugs on point dist its a worn out bushing. dist shaft wiggle. condenser bad(or loose ground) or point gap. It was the f*@kin dizzy cap. Oh well, haha. The truck got a great tune-up! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 (edited) must be the cheap aluminum contack versions. better yet a Taiwan produced cap. Havent bought a cap in like 10 years last one was from the A Junk yard a brass contack version . the blue streak copper ones are the best if you can even find them most time water under the cap is the proplem after heavey rain or tempature change. like lots of snow to a fash warm up will cause lots of condensation Edited September 22, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
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