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Just purchased my second Datsun with no brakes and was looking for some advice as far as dual m/c routing. The car came with a new silver mine motors 4 disc brake kit and wilwood dual m/c. As far as lines go I’m guessing I can run a proportioning valve combination set off the m/c then out to the wheels? Any help is greatly appreciated and any suggestions I’m open to them. 

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Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Wilwood makes proportioning valves. Plumb it in line on the rear brake line and adjust to suit when you get it working.

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Thanks datzenmike I ended up going with a front and rear split proportioning valve just to make things easierDA693-BA8-92-FC-4-C74-A56-F-9-E90-B8-EDB4-AD37-D0-C-4-A8-E-4-E36-B102-0-AF6-D3-F

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Welcome aboard, and best truck hands down. 620's suck balls. You got brakes now what about engine ? Going L series or what. Please not another SR or KA. Do A good L series engine. I love my FJ's but if I can do it all over again I would stay L series. Looks goo though keep up the good progress.

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nice 521

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Thanks mrbigtanker and gene knight. I originally was going to keep the motor but it just lacks the power I want with it being a j13. I have a 92 240sx Ka that could be a donor swap but I’m still undecided. I want to eventually use it possibly to tow my 240z but don’t know if that little truck could handle it even with a Ka lol. For now I’m just getting her back on the road will keep posting pics. Which L motor would be an easy swap? L20 I’m guessiBBFFFB76-D472-4955-85-C6-C54-CF6435455.jng 

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where/who did the rear disc brake setup? i need to do that to my 521. i already did the mike klotz front disc brake conversion setup and i wanna do the rear brake conversion

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That looks good man!!

-Pidge

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That truck looks nice!!

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"I want to eventually use it possibly to tow my 240z but don’t know if that little truck could handle it even with a Ka lol."

 

In the 1970's and early 1980's I used a 521 with a L-16, then a L-18, and a five speed to tow a two horse trailer all over the Pacific Northwest.   I do not know how hilly Ohio is, but here we do have hills.  

You probably know this, but I will mention it anyway.  Have brakes on the trailer with the 240Z.

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Gene knight I converted all 4 drums to disc myself. When I bought the truck it came with a silver mine Motors front and rear disc conversion kit. It was super easy to install you just may need a press for the rear drum backing plates. Other than that piece of cake and silver mines kit fit great. 
 

thanks Pidge and draker

 

LOL from what I know banzai510 it was originally from Alabama most of its life then was in Tennessee for a year or so and then was sat in a garage in Indiana where I picked it up. They guy I bought it from just didn’t have the means to fix the brake system. 
 

DanielC that’s a good point about the trailer brakes and knowing what you did with yours in the 80s makes me confident now. She will definitely get a little more power but at least I got options engine wise. I’d love to build a really nice clean L motor just because keeping it close to original is a goal. But if worse comes to worse my readily available Ka swap may go in it. But I will definitely keep posting as I do more

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2 hours ago, Nismo521240z said:

Gene knight I converted all 4 drums to disc myself. When I bought the truck it came with a silver mine Motors front and rear disc conversion kit. It was super easy to install you just may need a press for the rear drum backing plates. Other than that piece of cake and silver mines kit fit great. 
 

 

 

Nismo521240z:   pm sent

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How did u route the line from the master to proportioning valve did u just 90up ? I’m doing same at the moment 

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Hey Alexp521 yea pretty much I’ll post some pics of how I routed them. I used the traditional black brake line benders but it’s just such a wide turn. I’m looking for a set of plier type benders. I also found a good way to make tight bends without linking is to put two sockets in a vise that are the same length and straight on the sides. Tighten them in the vise perpendicular to the jaws of the vise one above the other with just enough space for the brake line to go through. Then put your fitting on and flare it and stick the line between the sockets until you hit the back of the fitting and use the sockets to bend it. It works very well in a pinch. Let me know if you need any other help.

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Its a little difficult to see but the lines go straight down and loop back up. Then I offset them when I tightened them in so they don’t interfere with the bleeder valves

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Banzai510 you are exactly right. Since I had to run lines anyway I change all of my brake fittings. If you get the wilwood proportioning valve and master cylinder the threads are either m10 x 1.0 or 3/8-24 both 3/16 line. I needed both sizes 10 of one and 5 of the other. I also had to match up the rubber hose in the rear. I’m sure you can find one online but I wanted to replace it in a pinch. I took all my parts I needed fittings for to the auto parts store and figured it out that way. 

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So line came in today and was wondering like I’m using calipers and rubber brake lines from a 92 d21 what flairing do I need to make on the hard line  sae or metric flairing I’m getting confuse 

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