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Richie

74 620 magnetic pickup

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11 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Your new shiny coil looks fine as long it’s about More than say 1.4 ohms or close to it.

 

points constantly wear so this is the first to look at not the coil.

 

this is me

if you just took the center coil wire place near chassis ground and hit the start and see if sparks.dont need to look at the spark plugs.

pill the rotor off so you can see the point open and close. It’s about .020 on the high spot on the point lobe

So I did pull the coil wire off and try that. I got not spark. So then I changed the coil and measured the ohms and got a 1.6 reading. I installed the new shiny coil and still no spark. I then checked the volts on the resistor and all that and got 12 volts.  I haven’t messed with the distributor yet. Then I thought ooo maybe the spark plugs are not gapped right. Spark plugs were bad. Changed the plugs and made sure they were gapped correctly. Still nothing. So the only other thing I guess it the points. I’m about to open it up right now. 

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if you cheacked the center coil wire to ground for spark this would have told you your waisting your time checking the sparkplugs. cause it has nothing to do with that. As checking the center coil wire from the coil is like checking at the plug wires down the line cause it would go thru the rotor to the specific spot.

 

you didn't say if you check the other side of the ballast resisitor. Well what voltage you get?

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https://imgur.com/a/2rv15hx
so I gapped the distributor .483 mm. The owners manual said .45-.55 mm. I also noticed it wasn’t gapped correctly and was really dirty on the point. Like grease was on it. Waiting for my battery to charge and going to see if it sparks. The coil, resistor, and the coil plug wire all lite up the red light on the tester and so did the distributor. But my battery is almost dead so I had to get it charged. 

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Well I put the battery in and it still won’t start. I was testing the volts a second time and this time I didn’t plug the battery in. But the light still turned red on the test lamp on the coil is that normal or did I buy a wack test lamp from autozone?

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

if you cheacked the center coil wire to ground for spark this would have told you your waisting your time checking the sparkplugs. cause it has nothing to do with that. As checking the center coil wire from the coil is like checking at the plug wires down the line cause it would go thru the rotor to the specific spot.

 

you didn't say if you check the other side of the ballast resisitor. Well what voltage you get?

 

If you check the coil wire and have spark you might assume that the plugs are firing too...but they may not. Checking any plug wire confirms everything is working. If no spark at the plug wire then check the coil. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Richie said:

https://imgur.com/a/2rv15hx
so I gapped the distributor .483 mm. The owners manual said .45-.55 mm. I also noticed it wasn’t gapped correctly and was really dirty on the point. Like grease was on it. Waiting for my battery to charge and going to see if it sparks. The coil, resistor, and the coil plug wire all lite up the red light on the tester and so did the distributor. But my battery is almost dead so I had to get it charged. 

 

The gap was set with the points on the highest point on the cam lobe??? .45-.55mm is 0.017"-0.021" or the thickness of a cereal box, something old school that can be checked or done on the side of the road. Gap not that critical as long as there is some gap.

 

Test light will be dim because there is a ballast resistor between the coil and the 12v.

 

Test the negative side of the coil while turning the engine with the starter, The lamp should flash as the points open and close.

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Test the negative side of the coil while turning the engine with the starter, The lamp should flash as the points open and close. ??????????????????????

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I did what I was told earlier in this forum and also did the negative side and got a flash. Also after I cleaned the point and reset the gap the car was turning a lot stronger. Even when the battery was low. I have fuel in the carb and the pump is new and working. Is there a hose or something I should be looking at after the carb? I know I’m all over the place, my bad just trying to figure this out. 

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But is it running? Check... you should have spark now.

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No it’s not running but I have electricity running how it should. 

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The testlight flashing as Mike said how to do it?

If not then something in the dist is grounding out and not causing the coil to fire when the points open.

I workd on a 520 truck that had this and it was the points wire inside that was grounding out.

 

what I did is open the dist cap  try to start I got spark out of the center coil wire. then put the cap back on the spark was GONE

 

I found the point wire to  was shorted , or something like that

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Condensers go out.  That is the main reason I went to a matchbox. when you are adjusting the points is the points sitting on a lobe on the distributor shaft?

 

Distributeor points adjustment

Edited by Charlie69

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I ran into this at Bonneville: take apart the connector at the side of the distributor where the wires hook up.  Throw away the corroded screw and nut after you go to the hardware store and buy brand new ones.  

 

If you get a flashing test light at the negative side of the coil while cranking, and the cap, rotor, and plug wires are all in their correct places, the only thing left is to check and or set the timing.   Pull you r #1 spark plug and put it into its wire, then ground it to bare metal and turn the engine over.  You should see a spark at the plug.  If so follow the instructions below.  If not, you still have a points issue.  

 

Scroll down to "setting timing in a disturbed engine"

http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/links/

There's a lot of advice on this page that's come from decades of research rather than decades of myths.  With all this info, anyone should be able to get any engine running on points.  

 

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22 minutes ago, distributorguy said:

I ran into this at Bonneville: take apart the connector at the side of the distributor where the wires hook up.  Throw away the corroded screw and nut after you go to the hardware store and buy brand new ones.  

 

If you get a flashing test light at the negative side of the coil while cranking, and the cap, rotor, and plug wires are all in their correct places, the only thing left is to check and or set the timing.   Pull you r #1 spark plug and put it into its wire, then ground it to bare metal and turn the engine over.  You should see a spark at the plug.  If so follow the instructions below.  If not, you still have a points issue.  

 

Scroll down to "setting timing in a disturbed engine"

http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/links/

There's a lot of advice on this page that's come from decades of research rather than decades of myths.  With all this info, anyone should be able to get any engine running on points.  

 

Ok I’m going to try this today and send pictures. 
Thanks for all the help and advice. I really appreciate it. I’ll update you guys later today. 

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Richie

that is correct in the fire order

If you never changed the fire order in the first place then One should still get spark for the center coil wire fire order wrong or not.

If you took the distributor out  or really the oil pump of this vehicle and not   one need to know what it TDC. to make sure your plug wires are really in the correct spot as Distributor guys suggested.

 

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Just now, banzai510(hainz) said:

Richie

that is correct in the fire order

If you never changed the fire order in the first place then One should still get spark for the center coil wire fire order wrong or not.

If you took the distributor out  or really the oil pump of this vehicle and not   one need to know what it TDC. to make sure your plug wires are really in the correct spot as Distributor guys suggested.

 

I know it’s was probably a dumbass question I just wanted to make sure. 

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when the points open the coil field collapses and goes from the COIL then to the dist cap.  it don't know where its going so no need to worry yet if fire order is correct right now WE are looking for spark.

 

Oncde you get spark then look see if the fire order is correct but if you really never changed anything then I cant see how the fire order would change.

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

when the points open the coil field collapses and goes from the COIL then to the dist cap.  it don't know where its going so no need to worry yet if fire order is correct right now WE are looking for spark.

 

Oncde you get spark then look see if the fire order is correct but if you really never changed anything then I cant see how the fire order would change.

 

 

 

Still no spark. I pulled spark plug one out and grounded it no spark. Pulled the coil wire out grounded it no spark. I did the distributor setting and checked if I have compression just in case and I do. I bypassed the resistor and hooked the hot wire straight to the coil and no spark. 

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OK here is another test.

Its simple.

pull the dist wire off the didistributor. and pull the wire off the mis side of the coil.  Just mark them if you forget where they go

 

Now make make a wire from the -minus side coil and strip the wire off.

 

OK put key to ON  now while holding the wire out of the COIL place near the chassis  so the Spark if you get it can JUMP to ground.  While doing this I want you to take the wire you just made that is on the - munis side coil you ground it , this will charge up the coil then when you let off the coil should fire. Hopefull you can make it spark from the COIL.   more or less you putting the wire to ground on/off is making like you are the points buy just by hand

 

this vid shows the guy having a spark plug in the center coil wire and Grounded  but its the same what I just told you above to eliminate the dizzy as the proplem if this test works then something in the dizzy is not making it work

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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