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Old bearing race with new bearings?


matrophy

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I had some play at 12 and 6 on one wheel so I decide to change wheel bearings. I was following fastboatman's tutorial and I'm not clear if I need to replace the bearing races if I am using new bearings. 

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I had some play at 12 and 6 on one wheel so I decide to change wheel bearings. I was following fastboatman's tutorial and I'm not clear if I need to replace the bearing races if I am using new bearings. 

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Did you go through the bearing preload sequence first? It may go away when properly adjusted.

 

YES!!! Only the inner bearing has a race that must be pounded out with a drift. Use brass, copper or aluminum drift if you have one, not steel. The inner bearing cannot fall out because the old grease seal prevents this. pry it out carefully, lift the old bearing out and then drive the race out from behind it from the other side. ALWAYS USE A NEW GREASE SEAL!!!

 

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FYI right is my Maxima inner race. The growling sound was very noticeable and the pitting was maybe water or some containment that got in. The left (used) one is from my 710 strut and are the same part though 8 years different.  Absolutely silent now. I also removed all the grease that is packed inside the hub and replaced it. Also very important.

 

Inner or outer bearing should be washed in solvent and dried thoroughly, then packed with new grease.

 

 

The bearing preload procedure for the 720 is...

 

Tighten wheel bearing nut to 29 ft lbs.

Turn wheel several times in both directions to seat bearings.

Check or tighten nut to 29 ft lbs.

Loosen nut 450.

Install adjusting cap and tighten nut (if needed) until the first hole aligns and a NEW cotter pin can be installed.

 

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Thanks. I didn't know about the preload part. I'm going to replace the bearings on both front wheels. It seemed like the nut was just finger tight but maybe 29 ft/lb isn't that much. 

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It 29 ft lbs then loosen 450 then towards loosen till the cotter pin fits the next hole. Try this first rather than the bother and expense of new bearings and seals that may be fine. (don't fix what isn't broken) 

 

The 12 and 6 in and out could also be worn ball joints. Again.... the bother and expense of replacing the bearings won't fix this.

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