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TommyBsolid

z24i distributor timing

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I was replacing the head gasket off a z24i and my chain fell loose causing the tensioner to jam up. I had to remove the timing cover and I soon realized the cam was 180 degrees out while the crank punch mark was lined up with the chain link. I flipped it and I'm now wondering if the distributor is 180 degrees out since it cranks but wont fire. I made sure to align the spindle punch mark with the oil hole on the oil pump before installing. does the oil pump/distributor spindle rotate 1:1 with the crank?

Edited by TommyBsolid

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If it was running it can't be 180 out. The punch marks on cam and crankshaft sprockets only line up with the chain when put on and once the engine turns maybe every 7 or 8 turns do they line up again. All you had to do was put the tensioner back in.

 

0900c15280082d0e.jpg

 

If you set the crank and cam timing marks properly like this above then unbolt the distributor with it's pedestal from the timing cover and lift out . You should see this...

 

8Gj0vYy.jpg

 

Note that there is a large and a small half moon shape.

 

 

Hopefully you did not turn the cam to set anything.

 

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Thanks for the reply. I wasn't aware of the punch marks being for installation specifically. Though I don’t know if it ran or not when I bought it. I drained the oil and coolant/oil slag came out, I just started taking it apart at that point. I set the crank/cam aligned with the punch marks & silver links and made sure to install the dizzy spindle aligned with TDC. I checked for spark and it was good, the plugs were spotless and i realized I had no fuel delivery. I quickly dropped the fuel tank, pulled the pump and tested it directly to 12v battery. Pump worked, tested fuel pump relay and worked. I was puzzled for a sec, I then followed the wire harness coming into the cab from the relay and discovered I forgot to plug it into the ecu while I was cleaning the ratted out cab. Starts up flawlessly, water pump is leaking and was most likely the reason for the blown head gasket.

What I got out of this is the wire color codes going to the fuel pump.
86 Nissan D21 Pickup

Black: Ground

White/Purple stripe: Pump +
Blue/Red stripe: Pump -

Yellow solid: Fuel Gauge

Yellow/Green stripe: Fuel Light

Edited by TommyBsolid

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19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Hopefully you did not turn the cam to set anything.


I unbolted the caps on the cam to prevent valve lift while I flipped the cam 🙂

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5 hours ago, TommyBsolid said:


I unbolted the caps on the cam to prevent valve lift while I flipped the cam 🙂

???????????????????????????

 

SO ITS RUNNING??????

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

???????????????????????????

 

SO ITS RUNNING??????

Yes it is. I ordered a new water pump to replace the old leaky&squeaky one

Edited by TommyBsolid

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I also ordered a new thermostat. I replaced both today, I have run into a problem. When engine is cold it idles well, open the throttle too much and it runs rich and starts to stall (blows transparent white smoke and smells like fuel). This gets worse when at operating temperature it starts stalling on idle, I have to nudge the throttle just to keep it going, although again open it up and it stalls. I will check codes on the ECU lights tomorrow, it must be something wrong with the fuel mixture control. I’m thinking O2 sensor, leaky injector, MAF. Other thoughts throttle position, vacuum leak, valve clearance?

Edited by TommyBsolid

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Is this a new problem? that just started when the thermostat was changed?????

 

 

During warm up the choke is on and forces a rich fuel condition so gas smell and some exhaust vapor is normal.

 

I don't think the 720 Z24i has code display. The D21 and WD21 Z24i did in the Hardbody and Pathfinder.

 

The O2 sensor is not active during warm up and is in open loop mode. I suppose if the new thermostat was faulty and was open at all times the engine would run cold all the time.

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The thermostat works, there is no problem getting up to temperature. This is an ‘86 D21, I checked the codes and nothing came up. I took off the carb unit to check it out. I have no idea whats going on, it runs good on idle when cold, gets worse when hot. The temp also starts to rise above operating temp, this could be due to a rich mix. Is there any manual way of adjusting the fuel mix like on a Z24 non-i?

Also, when opening throttle there is a hiss sound like vacuum leak near the carb, could it cause this sort of problem?


Note: I didn't rev it to begin with, only idle. I first changed the water pump and ran into the issue above, I then changed the thermostat and there was no change (other than the engine not overheating as bad)

Edited by TommyBsolid

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I can only reply to the info available. You profile doesn't mention a Hardbody only 720s.

 

A rich mixture will run cooler than a lean one.

 

Put the air filter on and see if the hiss goes away... it probably will. Most carbs and throttle bodies hiss as the idle air squeezes past the closed throttle plate. 

 

A non i engine??? Why mention a Z24 if you have a Z24i??? Yes a Z24 non ECC carburetor can have the jets changed to alter the fuel mixture but what ever was put in at the factory isn't going to need changing. A Z24 ECC carburetor primary barrel can't be altered as the fuel mix is determined by sensors and set but the ECU. Same with the Z24i. The mixture is set by the ECU with sensor inputs. Both the ECC carburetor and the Z24i start and run richer during warm up and use an O2 sensor when warmed up to adjust the mixture closer to stoichiometric .

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Well, I bought a timing gun and it was retarded. I installed the spindle 1 tooth off, because they are helical gears you need to insert the spindle slightly advanced to get it to line up correctly. Fires up and runs smooth across all rpms. It came back to my original thread title 😆

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