z24i distributor timing

[TommyBsolid]

I was replacing the head gasket off a z24i and my chain fell loose causing the tensioner to jam up. I had to remove the timing cover and I soon realized the cam was 180 degrees out while the crank punch mark was lined up with the chain link. I flipped it and I'm now wondering if the distributor is 180 degrees out since it cranks but wont fire. I made sure to align the spindle punch mark with the oil hole on the oil pump before installing. does the oil pump/distributor spindle rotate 1:1 with the crank?

Edited May 26, 2020 by TommyBsolid

[datzenmike]

If it was running it can't be 180 out. The punch marks on cam and crankshaft sprockets only line up with the chain when put on and once the engine turns maybe every 7 or 8 turns do they line up again. All you had to do was put the tensioner back in.

 

 

If you set the crank and cam timing marks properly like this above then unbolt the distributor with it's pedestal from the timing cover and lift out . You should see this...

 

 

Note that there is a large and a small half moon shape.

 

 

Hopefully you did not turn the cam to set anything.

 

[TommyBsolid]

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't aware of the punch marks being for installation specifically. Though I don’t know if it ran or not when I bought it. I drained the oil and coolant/oil slag came out, I just started taking it apart at that point. I set the crank/cam aligned with the punch marks & silver links and made sure to install the dizzy spindle aligned with TDC. I checked for spark and it was good, the plugs were spotless and i realized I had no fuel delivery. I quickly dropped the fuel tank, pulled the pump and tested it directly to 12v battery. Pump worked, tested fuel pump relay and worked. I was puzzled for a sec, I then followed the wire harness coming into the cab from the relay and discovered I forgot to plug it into the ecu while I was cleaning the ratted out cab. Starts up flawlessly, water pump is leaking and was most likely the reason for the blown head gasket.

What I got out of this is the wire color codes going to the fuel pump.
86 Nissan D21 Pickup

Black: Ground

White/Purple stripe: Pump +
Blue/Red stripe: Pump -

Yellow solid: Fuel Gauge

Yellow/Green stripe: Fuel Light

Edited May 27, 2020 by TommyBsolid

[TommyBsolid]

19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Hopefully you did not turn the cam to set anything.

I unbolted the caps on the cam to prevent valve lift while I flipped the cam 🙂

[banzai510(hainz)]

5 hours ago, TommyBsolid said:

I unbolted the caps on the cam to prevent valve lift while I flipped the cam 🙂

???????????????????????????

 

SO ITS RUNNING??????

[TommyBsolid]

3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

???????????????????????????

 

SO ITS RUNNING??????

Yes it is. I ordered a new water pump to replace the old leaky&squeaky one

Edited May 27, 2020 by TommyBsolid

[banzai510(hainz)]

good job

get a Japan made unit if possible

[TommyBsolid]

I also ordered a new thermostat. I replaced both today, I have run into a problem. When engine is cold it idles well, open the throttle too much and it runs rich and starts to stall (blows transparent white smoke and smells like fuel). This gets worse when at operating temperature it starts stalling on idle, I have to nudge the throttle just to keep it going, although again open it up and it stalls. I will check codes on the ECU lights tomorrow, it must be something wrong with the fuel mixture control. I’m thinking O2 sensor, leaky injector, MAF. Other thoughts throttle position, vacuum leak, valve clearance?

Edited May 31, 2020 by TommyBsolid

[datzenmike]

Is this a new problem? that just started when the thermostat was changed?????

 

 

During warm up the choke is on and forces a rich fuel condition so gas smell and some exhaust vapor is normal.

 

I don't think the 720 Z24i has code display. The D21 and WD21 Z24i did in the Hardbody and Pathfinder.

 

The O₂ sensor is not active during warm up and is in open loop mode. I suppose if the new thermostat was faulty and was open at all times the engine would run cold all the time.

[TommyBsolid]

The thermostat works, there is no problem getting up to temperature. This is an ‘86 D21, I checked the codes and nothing came up. I took off the carb unit to check it out. I have no idea whats going on, it runs good on idle when cold, gets worse when hot. The temp also starts to rise above operating temp, this could be due to a rich mix. Is there any manual way of adjusting the fuel mix like on a Z24 non-i?

Also, when opening throttle there is a hiss sound like vacuum leak near the carb, could it cause this sort of problem?

Note: I didn't rev it to begin with, only idle. I first changed the water pump and ran into the issue above, I then changed the thermostat and there was no change (other than the engine not overheating as bad)

Edited June 1, 2020 by TommyBsolid

[datzenmike]

I can only reply to the info available. You profile doesn't mention a Hardbody only 720s.

 

A rich mixture will run cooler than a lean one.

 

Put the air filter on and see if the hiss goes away... it probably will. Most carbs and throttle bodies hiss as the idle air squeezes past the closed throttle plate. 

 

A non i engine??? Why mention a Z24 if you have a Z24i??? Yes a Z24 non ECC carburetor can have the jets changed to alter the fuel mixture but what ever was put in at the factory isn't going to need changing. A Z24 ECC carburetor primary barrel can't be altered as the fuel mix is determined by sensors and set but the ECU. Same with the Z24i. The mixture is set by the ECU with sensor inputs. Both the ECC carburetor and the Z24i start and run richer during warm up and use an O² sensor when warmed up to adjust the mixture closer to stoichiometric .

[TommyBsolid]

Well, I bought a timing gun and it was retarded. I installed the spindle 1 tooth off, because they are helical gears you need to insert the spindle slightly advanced to get it to line up correctly. Fires up and runs smooth across all rpms. It came back to my original thread title 😆

[Billychar]

Thanks to datzenmike for the multiple re-entry's of this timing information about the Nissan NAPS-Z . You know the ones. I have had to do work on these motors so often over the fifteen years I've been driving them. Having such limited knowledge I loathe the mistakes made when reflecting on them.  From Z16 four sparkers to S110 Silvia with Z18 turbo, 8 plug efi models I probably made the worst combo each time to keep rolling on the road. Over the last (11) years I've driven a navara QD 21 ex JDM 1600. For a time I had a Z22 head on it which was interesting but not great. So over the last 8-9 years www. has been the location to refresh my memory of the distributor install, setting the cam chain up and any other tech stuff I want to double check or put back right. And it has totally been Mikes replies that hold the information on this forum and other locations where your posts are seen. Those that save my ass each and every time. Repeatedly I have had the head on/off. Dizzy out. Oil pump off to work behind the timing cover. Although now somehow, the information and links from my search engine to all these records published to assist our brethren L,Z,KA owners are becoming illusive. The answers are taking extensive effort to locate of late, but there has to be more instances (of what I'm searching for) than ever previously? But it is still here.

Anyway thanks to datzenmike for the numerous saves where I have not had to type a question any time. I just get online knowing You're the guy who has put this up all over our network to help us keep these things pumping. The truck is now Z22 bored for KA-e24 pistons and a stock head. 5 speed column shifted. Truly reliable but I do patch up whatever shows wear and get her choochin like Nippon anticipated back in 1986. None of my chains have had a shiny or marked link anyplace. I just set as accurate as possible the cam dwell position at TDC. Thats my ZERO. Backing the crank back 90 degrees then rotating forward to 10 BTDC set the spark static and it'll fire up and go anywhere. Of course it's really the time to attach the timing light and set the advance to 9 degrees BTDC with vacuum advance plugged off. The smog crap got ejected a long time ago but it did not really assist the way it performed. Moving right along the hiccups were slowly sorted . Mostly some minor informational details made a great difference to moving forward or having a pile. A shed, as the English say. And you are the guy that puts out the easy to decipher straight story on them all, Datsun and early Nissn

I hope this is not a gesture you find awkward Mike ? You are 'The Man' buddy. Thank you.