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67 WRL411 SSS project in Texas


Greaser2

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Take what's left of your brushes  to a real hardware store.  Ace hardware comes to mind.  You will find a set of replacement brushes in their drawer.  The leads may be too long but that's why you have a pair of dikes in your tool box.

 

The brush  selection is usually for drills but they fit.

Edited by MikeRL411
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  • 2 weeks later...
21 hours ago, Greaser2 said:

Cut out the rust on driver side rear quarter this Sat.  Welding went from bad to beginner. 
 

 

EADC491F-ADE2-4B57-98EF-75D95C87C69C.jpeg

100A74F7-B5E6-462B-89C0-93F0F1C9C580.jpeg

 

Now paint the interior pocket with lots of primer and inject light weight foam.  Just before the foam finishes expanding compress the top surface flat and it will look like the factory cardboard filler strip.  It will also be paintable.

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  • 4 weeks later...
30 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Yea,  I saw the rubber, not in great shape and I have never seen a mention of a replacement. 

 

I would put circles of poly "fabric" with a ton of body lube as a last resort, kitchen pot scrubbers for example.  Just pumping grease into the space between leaves is OK but does not have any retention.  Loaded Teflon would just cause  wear on the steel.  Plain Teflon would wear out too soon.  As long as we don't carry 600 pounds in the back seat should be OK.

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The USDM Patrol 60 Series used a padding between the tank straps and the tank.  (It was not asbestos, but rather a felt product).

Keith

 

Fuel Tank 005.jpg

Edited by zed1
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Should have a solution for the front leaf spring bushing.  Top is the factory bush, not horrible but.. Second Kartek bush part AFB-BA175. Third is extras needed, a 3/4 bolt 5.5”, 3 washers, and a locking nut per side.  You could also use a 9/16 bolt with the inner bushing sleeve but ACE’s selection on 9/16 bolts was limited.  Bottom is new setup, because I went with 3/4 bolt u will need to open up the factory perch mounts holes a hair.  

F7764D15-089D-4EF7-8882-AC5392215AA7.jpeg

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The bolts in the pic above look to me like Grade 5 bolts. Markings on bolt head would show. I'm judging by the Cadmium looking finish. I've always heard that it's not a good idea to use any fasteners below Grade 8 on steering, suspension, and other critical applications. There're all kind of articles and forum discussions to search on internet on this subject. Here's an example:

 

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2013/11/22/tech-101-identifying-and-replacing-automotive-hardware

 

Another consideration that I always address on really critical applications is machined versus rolled threads. I visited in on a lengthly thread on one of the car forums a couple years ago about this aspect of fasteners. Machined threads can leave stress risers in the finished product that can provide the start of a cracking type failure. Sure don't want that in any steering components.

 

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