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banzai510(hainz)

Smashed my 521

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I ran a red light and side swiped a Mercedes

Cant believe this happened

Anyways  I slammed the brakes so hard the brake line busted right under the fuel line and vent hose where the line runs in the upper frame rail more or less it was dirty and rusting out there.

whts the best way to fix this?

cut a section and replace this?

Have some one fix this

hate to throw the truck away fender I can pull out a little and put a Big NGK sticker on there? and then buff out the black  scrap alone the side of the truck


A guy help me break the line and ran a screw in the line then folded it over to pinch the line then pounded it a inch up and held enough to get to my parents

 

mom said take it to the dump!!!!!!!!

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Your mom? I thought you were like 80?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just kidding. That sucks ☹️

  • Haha 1

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Hot German accent too!!!

 

 

 

Well that could have been worse, glad you made it.

 

521 had the lines on top of the frame where wet dirt collects and rots them out. The 620 are on the inside of the frame and aren't so bad.

 

Buy a flaring tool and a few feet of pre-made  brake line and a couple of fittings... they don't have to be metric but they have to be all the same. I did this on my old Cutlass. It's impossible to make a perfect length splice so I made a small loop that can be opened up or closed to fit the cut out section.

 

My 710 FSM shows the brake line pressure without the booster. It's a  3/4" master and 130 pounds on the pedal produce just over 1,000 PSI of line pressure. If you weigh 200 pounds and stand on one leg that's what 200 pounds feels like. Fuck me in a panic I've lifted my ass clear of the seat and almost tore the steering column up out of the floor so I wouldn't doubt that 350-400 lb. or more is possible if suitably motivated to save your life. Lord knows what the line pressure might be!!!! 350 in is 2,600+ line pressure.

 

A lesson here for everyone

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Got it home Just now. I’ll look at it 2mrw

 

Its STRONG German accent.

 

i just got a 92 2wd Toyota pick up has sunburnt paint but only 77k miles for 1500.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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It's really not that hard to make a brake line, you just need the double flare tool kit(double tube flaring kit Model#66534(cheap one)) and be able to understand directions.

I believe this is the one I use, but I would not buy it as it is too expensive for shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-point-By-Snap-On-Brake-Pipe-Double-Flaring-Kit/223999399646?hash=item34276796de:g:vFkAAOSwbDpesH-c

 

I believe this one would work, you need to be able to double flare 3/16ths, I bought a cheap kit for the 3/16ths insert I had broke.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Double-Flaring-Brake-Line-Tool-Kit-Tubing-Car-Truck-Tool-with-Mini-Pipe-Cutter-A/300594761309?hash=item45fcd80e5d:g:nMcAAOSwIQdZE7Uf:sc:USPSPriority!97211!US!-1

 

You might be able to buy a new SAE brake line that is long enough at the parts store or buy two SAE lines and a adapter piece to put them together to make one long line, this is likely what I would do if your not comfortable making your own brake lines, it really is not that hard to fix the brake line, the hard part is bleeding the line for most people.

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The 521's brake lines are SAE....3/16" line with 3/8x24 threads on the fittings.  If you buy pre-made lines that are a bit long, you can typically put a loop or bends in the line to take up the excess.  Doing that will eliminate having to flare any ends on.  But, if you get a flaring tool, you can custom fit the lines to your truck.  Are you still running drums?

 

If you don't know how to flare the lines, this vid will give you an idea on flaring and bending.  

 

 

 

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I’m trying to take the fender off

 

got all the bolts but I’m missing something up front.do you need to take the headlight mount off ?seems like it goes under the headlamp housing and now the Phillips striped out going to drill out

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Yes you have to take the headlight bucket off, there are 2 bolts under them.

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2 fender 11 mm bolts?

i lifted the buckit up and got some room but I guess have to take the bucket out 

workimg on them now

 

thanks you

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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There is also a bolt below the park lamp on the inside in front of the front tire.  At the front of the wheel well, on the inside is a bolt that goes down into the rear corner of the front apron.

13 bolts total on the fender.  The bolts are 1/4-28 thread.  A 7/16 socket may fit the bolts better.  Remember, 521 body parts are measured in inches.

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Yeah just figured that out on that bolt.

it shears off

 

my kingpins are shot again. crap

 

you or Wanyo should get a trailer and pick it up!

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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Here are the photos of the damage

 

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zZkpyJd.jpg

 

CVXu9Aw.jpg

 

 

 

8AfHpQ6.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Is that Mercedes juice I see on the bumper?

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I had someone hit me in the right front and damage my fender/front sheet metal/valance/bumper, I removed the fender, pounded it out, straightened out the sheet metal below the grill, pounded out the valance and put it back together, the bumper was a bitch, I didn't have a good extra, so I pounded on that for a while also, but when I put it on it looked bent at the inner mount bolts, I even had to straighten the bumper mount brackets, so I modified some 320 bumper over riders to fit the 320 bumper and it looks pretty good.

016-1.jpg

 

As much as I would like to make a double cab 521 I really don't need another project, I  have too many Datsun trucks now, thanks for the offer but no thanks.

 

It really don't look that bad, you should fix it, I am positive you could sell it.

Edited by wayno

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I got it in the garage

king pin bad on pass side and the wheel cylinder 

pass side wheel  nipple broke.

so I got some new bleed nipple from rock auto and hope they fit

 

driver side cylinder 

i turn the nipple The whole octagon block that it hooks up to turns loosing up from the cylinder so it just squirts out the side where it’s flush mounted to the cylinder when I bled the brake.I can remove it BPBlaster it and see it I can see if I can separate it then remove the struck bled nipple

i got Bap Geon boxed new front wheel cylinders but I remember in there was a issue getting these from rock auto and was missing the bled screws or the Y block.I think it wa Daniel or Wayno maybe Mklotz that mentioned this .You open the box and like are missing something which you have to get at the dealer.otherwise I would have ordered from the dealer situation.

 

but The front wheel cylinders do work it just the back sides that have issues

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Good luck on the bleeders from rock.  Last two times I tired for a 521, I got 620 metric ones.

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Yup that what I was worried about

i got to get my stash in the attic and maybe I have the correct bleeders  from the dealer and stuck them in the wheel cylinder boxes and they ready to go

just been so long ago I got these parts and order spares and pc them together

 

i see some old Napa labored boxes Wheel cylinderS on eBay as whole assembly for 30$  I might get these if I don’t have this in my stash

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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Think I ended up going and getting speed bleeders from pep boys.  Not a fan of speed bleeders or pep boys but they have been working for years now.  

 

Still cant find that giant bag of brake adjuster clips I have.  When I find them, I will let you know.

 

And sucks about your truck dude.

Edited by bilzbobaggins
^

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I do not know if this will work in every situation, but even if they send you a metric brake cylinder you can use the SAE bleeder fitting/housing on the metric brake cylinder using the metric banjo bolt, all the means is you don't use the new part that comes with the brake cylinder, the banjo bolt is the same size SAE or Metric threads, but your using a metric brake cylinder.

 

The banjo bolt going thru these bleeder housings don't matter, metric or SAE makes no difference, you just need the banjo bolt to match the brake cylinder your using, the rest you can leave stock, I have done this myself but I don't remember all the specifics anymore.

001.jpg

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I’ve got a 520 I’m parting out. Probably have whatever you need. That is if it could be removed without snapping off.

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Thanks for posting everybody

I’m going to look into this further

a buddy is going to look into pounding out the fender which o got most of it done

 

got to look into my stash for the wheel cylinders and my kingpin spare spindals

i don’t know why this set I got maybe 2 yrs out of before the kingpin is wore out and I grease this every day maybe 10 months , at least the pass side,driver side not bad

 

then look into the brake line

 

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FYI - On my old 521 back in the day (late 70's), one of my kingpins broke on the Long Beach Freeway...I muscled if off the road. It turned-out that the Zirk fitting for it was never drilled-out all the way from the factory and it never got any grease.....

 

Vicdat

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