SR20VET

[Icehouse]

After witnessing Sam's awesome VE plus T build and going for a ride I decided I wanted to try a VET.  Sam and I both want to build full on race cars.  How fun would it be to build a VET Racecar!  We did look into the K24 Honda engine it just seemed like a better idea to go with the VET since it's 280hp stock and I'm sure it will handle a few more PSI making it 300hp on a factory setup which will make it a reliable Racecar.  The K24 didn't come turbo so it's about 200hp.... not enough.  Since the VET's are getting so low in price especially compared to the DET's.  There are a list of things that need to be sorted out.  We will go over them in this thread.  

 

 

 

 

We each needed on of coarse so we had them shipped to work.  

 

 

 

 

 

First issue is converting it to RWD manual transmission.  We wanted to use the RWD flywheel like Sam did.  One company that's working on the conversion.  Not sure if they finished it or not cut the flex plate starter gear off and welded it onto the RWD flywheel.  Since Sam already crossed this bridge we thought...  

 

 

 

 

 

Pulsar vs. VET bell pattern fffewwwww They are the same.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aww and just like that there is the solution.  Sure glad we paid more for the engine that came with the MAF and starter....  

 

 

 

 

 

Two motors and one MAF that we got... the other harness doesn't even have the MAF plug...

 

 

 

 

 

Now to get a transmission to fit.  We do need to sort out the pilot bushing at some point.  This is a scan of the RWD block VS. FWD block.  Although in this shot they aren't clocked perfect (somehow didn't get a shot of them clocked perfect) You can see how lots of the holes do line up.  Since we don't really want to run a 71C since they are getting hard to find and these motors start 300hp we are going to skip to a bigger transmission that's easy to find.  So the CD009 won.  The Z32 was an option but it weighted the same as the CD009 120lbs.
 

 

 

 

 

In the rough can you can see the starter side is different.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sam doing some scanning.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like it can work.  Gotta get the clocking correct and make a prototype.  

 

 

 

Testing the scans.  Everything looks correct.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Trophy24]

Excited to see this moving forward. Hopefully some new products from JBC!

[afracer]

Any updates to this???!!!

[Icehouse]

14 hours ago, afracer said:

Any updates to this???!!!

 

 

Yeah we've done a bunch of stuff.  Really the biggest hurdle is deciding which trans to use.  Sam wanted to use the CD009 but that bastard besides being massive (he does have a good point that it won't brake) is super expensive.  Which we have discovered a work around for a cheaper CD009 but we can talk about that later once I have a stock pile of them 🙂 We did a bunch of work using the rx8 transmission.  Same weight and size as the 71c but stronger and a 6 speed.  It's the same trans that comes in all the newer lower powered RWD cars, BRZ, IS200, RX8, Miata some years.  The RX8 can be for about 300 bucks.  Since the Slave cylinder is on top we at first looked into the concentric slaves.  It's fun bouncing ideas back and forth.  We ended up deciding to move the pivot location.  We scanned the inside of the bell and made these parts.  Really all we need to do is spend a little more time and we can test it.  

 

You can see the stupid slave cylinder location.   

 

 

 

Are adapter plate.  Steel so it can be thread or welded to.   

 

 

 

 

Special order bolts.  Since they are so long.  

 

 

 

Or adapter adds the adapter thickness to keep the arm at the correct angle.  

 

 

 

 

Gotta love 3D printers! 

 

 

 

 

We added a window, notice the weird I guess vent?  I've never seen anything like it before.  

 

 

 

The RX8 clutch disk is the same exact size as the SR clutch disk.  That works out nice.  

 

 

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Now we just need to make the adapter to make the pilot bushing work then man up and put it in one of our cars haha!  

[afracer]

Yeah I would've definitely stuck with the CD009 trans. IDK what you're seeing but they're relatively cheap. I bought one for $200. In any case, I'm very interested in converting the VET to RWD using a CD009, so I'll be following this thread closely.

[datzenmike]

What about earlier Datsun truck slaves that have the fitting in the end??? This is so the fitting and line is not in conflict with the torsion bars. You may have to bleed it before you bolt it on.

 

[Icehouse]

1 hour ago, afracer said:

Yeah I would've definitely stuck with the CD009 trans. IDK what you're seeing but they're relatively cheap. I bought one for $200. In any case, I'm very interested in converting the VET to RWD using a CD009, so I'll be following this thread closely.

 

200 bucks?  Wow around here for a true after 2005 CD009 it's 800+ dollars.  

[Icehouse]

54 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

What about earlier Datsun truck slaves that have the fitting in the end??? This is so the fitting and line is not in conflict with the torsion bars. You may have to bleed it before you bolt it on.

 

 

 

Yeah the location is the issue.  We don't want it non serviceable location.  

[datzenmike]

What about those slaves that slip onto the nose where the release collar would be. They just have a hydraulic line and no clutch arm at all. A bit pricy..

 

[Icehouse]

19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

What about those slaves that slip onto the nose where the release collar would be. They just have a hydraulic line and no clutch arm at all. A bit pricy..

 

 

 

Trust me we looked into those.  By the time you add up all the additional parts its a 300$ tranny and a 400$ slave.  That style requires a pedal stop or a matching pressure plate with a built in stop.  Plus if you read up on them they are a pain in the ass.  any issue and you have to pull the trans.  There are actually companies that make kits to swap back to the old style for ease of repair or replacement.  Remember you have to match the sizes, if it's made for some massive V8 setup it may require displacing more fluid which then requires a bigger master....  The best idea was to just move the stock one and run it.  

[Icehouse]

 

O boy I'm close!!!  

Got the RWD trans almost modified.  Machined the 3/8" thickness of the adapter off the bell.  I think it would have worked without it but I wanted maximum spline engagement on the clutch disk.  I need to mount a slave cylinder and it's done!  My disk came in today too!  I "machined" the flywheel to, with a sharpening stone.  It's ready for some clutch kicks.  

Used a RWD exhaust manifold I got from my old buddy Spreadburry.  He and some other pointed out the DE exhaust manifold doesn't line up with the VE exhaust ports.  To me it looked close enough.  Maybe not for the race engines he builds but it's good enough for my back yard builds.  

Added the water return line like the S14/15

Gotta mod the drain.  

Waist gate didn't work in the RWD layout.  So I built a sweetgoogamoo new bracket.  

Next I had to sort out the water lines.  Which looked way harder than it ended up being.  I just made a bracket to hold the thermostat housing and welded up some sort of manifold.  The factory metal is not easy to tig weld.  Luke told me to use stainless filler rod.  It did help, actually a lot!!!

Here is the factory location on the back of the head.  

So many hoses!!

The idea.  

Welding fun....

Still looks like a mess.  

Now it's looking close!!! 

It's funny because at the beginning it looked like such a mess compared to a S chassis SR.  Now it looks so much cleaner!!!  Just those 2 170 degree hoses and the oil cooler hoses.