weber32/36 help!!!!!

[Lonewolf1990]

alright datsun fam, so i got my electric  Weber mounted on a 510 intake and headers installed on my LB20 engine and i was able to get the truck started but it sounded horrible either the rpm was really low or really high or it sounds like it starving for air , i tried tuning it but no luck , i cant get the Weber correct , ill try to start the truck again and it will run for a second then cut off, or it will stay running on but the engine is shaking so badly , any tips to fix this issue please help!! also can anyone spare pics of how they have there weber setup and where they have vacuum lines connected please. i wanna make sure i did it correctly 

[datzenmike]

Is this a new Weber? or Chinese knock off or used (I don't know which is worse)

[Lonewolf1990]

sorry for the missing info its a new legit weber from redline 

[bilzbobaggins]

Got any pics?   Mine will run like that with the idle jet gets plugged.

 

Which adapter did you use?  The two piece?  Make sure you use a good thread locker.  They love to vibrate loose.  I finally did away with the red loctite, and started using the blue loctite.  So far, so good for me.

 

Mine is on a L16 so I dont think the pics will help you.  Only vacuum line is going to the advance on the distributor.  

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Was car running ok before this?

just a carb swap? Nothing else like a dist swap also or a Moto rebuild 

 

carb adapter might have a crack or leak so no idle.
 

Teuck should a run if you dump gas in there by cycling the gas so the accel pump squirts gas in there

what carb you buy exactly there is a Weber 32/26DGV-IC that has a idle cut off that needs a 12volt wire.Some later 620s have a wire for that also.Datzenmike would know or others.mite be a choke wire and a cutoff wire I don’t know

Edited April 25, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Lonewolf1990]

4 hours ago, bilzbobaggins said:

Got any pics?   Mine will run like that with the idle jet gets plugged.

 

Which adapter did you use?  The two piece?  Make sure you use a good thread locker.  They love to vibrate loose.  I finally did away with the red loctite, and started using the blue loctite.  So far, so good for me.

 

Mine is on a L16 so I dont think the pics will help you.  Only vacuum line is going to the advance on the distributor.  

 

yes the two piece adapters that came with the kit, i used blue locitie everything and made sure its really snug

[Lonewolf1990]

2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Was car running ok before this?

just a carb swap? Nothing else like a dist swap also or a Moto rebuild 

 

carb adapter might have a crack or leak so no idle.
 

Teuck should a run if you dump gas in there by cycling the gas so the accel pump squirts gas in there

what carb you buy exactly there is a Weber 32/26DGV-IC that has a idle cut off that needs a 12volt wire.Some later 620s have a wire for that also.Datzenmike would know or others.mite be a choke wire and a cutoff wire I don’t know

the car was running fine before  this, but the stock carb gave out and i decided to do the upgrade, its a weber DGEV, i have the 12 volt wire connected to the alternator , thats what i seen videos of

[Lonewolf1990]

another question about the smog pump, can i just cap the hoses or do i completely remove it?

[datzenmike]

8 hours ago, Lonewolf1990 said:

the car was running fine before  this, but the stock carb gave out and i decided to do the upgrade, its a weber DGEV, i have the 12 volt wire connected to the alternator , thats what i seen videos of

 

I would connect to a source that is switched on and off with the ignition like the hot side of the ballast resistor

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Over tightening of the two piece adapter can crack them. This is because of gasket squish. I don't use the gaskets anymore, instead I use Threebond 1211 sealer, and red loctite.

 

The carb was new in the box? You installed the throttle linkage into the throttle shaft? Those pieces can be tricky and if installed in the wrong order or backwards can cause problems.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

A 77 should have a 12 volt wire for the choke and wire for the anti run on selinoid .so o don’t get the 12 volt wire from the alternator as the hot side is Hot all the time.

have a photo of the accel pump side of the carb?

i personably like the 5A version as it’s a manual choke as it’s simplier

 

as for smog I’m not that familiar with those but I yank them or plug but if the exhaust manifold is rusted it might be a pain

Edited April 25, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Lonewolf1990]

12 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Over tightening of the two piece adapter can crack them. This is because of gasket squish. I don't use the gaskets anymore, instead I use Threebond 1211 sealer, and red loctite.

 

The carb was new in the box? You installed the throttle linkage into the throttle shaft? Those pieces can be tricky and if installed in the wrong order or backwards can cause problems.

 

 

yes the carb is brand new from box and yeah i got the throttle link correct i followed every videos and reading on it to leave some slack also 

[Lonewolf1990]

11 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

A 77 should have a 12 volt wire for the choke and wire for the anti run on selinoid .so o don’t get the 12 volt wire from the alternator as the hot side is Hot all the time.

have a photo of the accel pump side of the carb?

i personably like the 5A version as it’s a manual choke as it’s simplier

 

as for smog I’m not that familiar with those but I yank them or plug but if the exhaust manifold is rusted it might be a pain

i do have those wires u are talking about i will try to connect to those instead of the alternator,  

ill send pics as soon as i can