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510revisited

280zx/510 brake upgrade

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Im in the process of gathering up all my parts needed for my 510 front brake swap. Ive noticed on a couple different websites that their are some discrepancies. I found a rotor with a different bolt pattern than 4x114. I also found a site that has two different year listings, 79-81 then 82-83 for calipers. Id like to buy it all as a kit, but i havent been able to find that. So im in need of a lil direction. I dont know what year my zx struts are. I just know they are zx struts... any and all

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Different bolt pattern rotor then NOT for a Datsun.

 

 

It's possible to have multiple part numbers. For example two suppliers of the same part.

 

Front rotors for the ZX are all the same or all interchangeable. L28E and L28ET

 

Calipers should be the same, certainly the pistons, seals dust boots and hardware are all the same all years. L28E and L28ET. Note that the zx also had rear calipers with July '78 through August '81 being one style and a totally different one from Sept. '81 on. These rears are probably the ones you found.

 

Couldn't find rear calipers but I would guess the same all years.

 

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Had another question. Ive been trying to read as much info as possible on this swap. Which is a lot. What im confused about is the orientation of the caliper. Ive seen two different ways on this topic. On a youtube video the person installed the whole strut assembly with the caliper towards the rear of the car. Another site shows the install with the calipers towards the front of the car. I seem to recall this being a discussion on another thread somewhere in the internet. Just cant seem to find it. Ive gathered all my parts minus a couple things, so i wanted to start lining my ducks up

Edited by 510revisited

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When ZX pads wear down the caliper self adjusts and apparently comes into contact with the steering tie rod or the knuckle. Switching the right with the left strut removes the problem. OR you can just inspect them and when close just put new pads on.

 

I have Maxima struts which are very close to zx in design... monster large caliper and vented rotor. Admittedly they are NOT zx but I climbed under and looked at mine and there's no way it will interfere with the steering. 

 

 

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So hears what i am gathering from your response. Switch the strut housings from left to right, BUT not the calipers? Or the entire setup. Strut, caliper and all. Btw, my calipers and struts are marked (as they should be) l and r. Which side is driver? L or R

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Everything, strut, caliper rotor L to R and R to L.

 

If you don't swap the calipers too the bleeder will not be at the top to get the air out

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So is driver l or r? Thanks for answering my questions, as mundane as they may seem. I just want it right the first time

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On a LHD vehicle L & R are as seen when sitting in the drivers seat. So right is passenger side, left is driver's side.

 

No problem, take your time, ask questions.

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As always, thanks. Waiting on those little spring thingies that go with the pads, then i need to get the copper washers for the hoses, then its all new EVERYTHING. new zx top hats, bearings, 125 lb eibach springs, gc coilovers, kyb zx strut inserts, new bearings, rotors, rebuilt calipers, new master. Im going with a stock sized 510 master. If the pedal feel is too bad, ill switch to the zx master. Again thanks.

 

Another question while i got your ear. To bleed the master i can use the bleeder valves on the side of the master by running a hose from each valve to each respective reservoir correct? Again. Ive done brakes, but never a new mc. Thanks

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Stock spring is about 89 pounds per inch on the 510, you could probably go to 150. I suspect 25 pounds either side of 200 is where most run their spring rate. My 710 was 100 stock and I went to 150 and love it. My car is also lowered.

 

Yes the bleeders on the side. Just pump a few times out and shoot it into a container and chuck it,  just like bleeding a brake cylinder, rather than recycling it.

 

New wheel bearings??? Order new inner hub grease seals as they have to be pried out to get at and replace the bearing race. Lube them with grease before installing so they don't start up dry.

 

The stock master will work but have to travel farther to move more fluid. The extra travel will feel mushy at first but it does allow fine adjustment of the braking force to keep the tires just above lock up. If you have a brake booster you can run up to a 15/16" master like from a '79-'82 zx. This will get rid of the excessive pedal travel.

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you can also run bump steer spacers which allow caliper clearance and reset the a arm to the correct position if lowered 

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19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Stock spring is about 89 pounds per inch on the 510, you could probably go to 150. I suspect 25 pounds either side of 200 is where most run their spring rate. My 710 was 100 stock and I went to 150 and love it. My car is also lowered.

 

Yes the bleeders on the side. Just pump a few times out and shoot it into a container and chuck it,  just like bleeding a brake cylinder, rather than recycling it.

 

New wheel bearings??? Order new inner hub grease seals as they have to be pried out to get at and replace the bearing race. Lube them with grease before installing so they don't start up dry.

 

The stock master will work but have to travel farther to move more fluid. The extra travel will feel mushy at first but it does allow fine adjustment of the braking force to keep the tires just above lock up. If you have a brake booster you can run up to a 15/16" master like from a '79-'82 zx. This will get rid of the excessive pedal travel.

I forgot to mention i have seals. Im switching

to 125 lb springs because i have 200 lb on all four corners, and thats too bouncy for me. Im going for a "factory sport edition" if there ever was one. Idea is what would the factory have done... kinda

14 hours ago, Ranman72 said:

you can also run bump steer spacers which allow caliper clearance and reset the a arm to the correct position if lowered 

I am currently running those. So if i run bump steer spacers, r to r and l to l. If NO bump steer spacers l to r, r to l?

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yes on the rr and ll 

you can still reverse the struts if you want 

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I did the same brake upgrade.I did use bump steer spacers and put the calipers and struts on like they would be on a 280zx.Right on right,left on left.I have no problems with clearances or anything hitting something.You might look for a 7/8" master cylinder.The 3/4 is too mushy but works.The 7/8 is much better.I even tried the 15/16 and it was way too much to push on to get any braking.

Edited by john510
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42 minutes ago, john510 said:

I did the same brake upgrade.I did use bump steer spacers and put the calipers and struts on like they would be on a 280zx.Right on right,left on left.I have no problems with clearances or anything hitting something.You might look for a 7/8" master cylinder.The 3/4 is too mushy but works.The 7/8 is much better.I even tried the 15/16 and it was way too much to push on to get any braking.

 

Well, thanks for all the help. I found, and ordered a 7/8 master out of a 280z. Did the research and learned it should work.... as per the 510realm. Ill return the 3/4. Ill probably just do r to r and l to l on everything to keep it simple. Im also thinking of doing a youtube video. Doesnt seem to be a lot of videos on this. We'll see.

 

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52 minutes ago, john510 said:

I did the same brake upgrade.I did use bump steer spacers and put the calipers and struts on like they would be on a 280zx.Right on right,left on left.I have no problems with clearances or anything hitting something.You might look for a 7/8" master cylinder.The 3/4 is too mushy but works.The 7/8 is much better.I even tried the 15/16 and it was way too much to push on to get any braking.

 

I think the problem only occurs when the pads wear down. If it happens at all. Just something I heard.

 

You can't get something for nothing, if we did we would all run 1" masters.  Increasing the master size will also increase the effort, this is why I asked if you have a booster. 15/16 will work best if you already have a brake booster to do most of the work.

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Negative. No booster

42 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

I think the problem only occurs when the pads wear down. If it happens at all. Just something I heard.

 

You can't get something for nothing, if we did we would all run 1" masters.  Increasing the master size will also increase the effort, this is why I asked if you have a booster. 15/16 will work best if you already have a brake booster to do most of the work.

 

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Good, then increase size cautiously. If too stiff you can add a booster later.

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32 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Good, then increase size cautiously. If too stiff you can add a booster later.

THATS WHAT SHE SAID!!! Sorry, it was too easy!

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Okay, so its looking like its gonna be a minute til i get my last needed part, which are the brake pad springy thingys on the ends of the pads.  Summit had them listed but said they're not gonna be in stock till 6/03. I have my old ones, which im tempted to use,  but dont wanna put all new stuff, and reuse one part. I do realize it wouldnt be difficult to swap them when the time comes. My question is are these an unobtanium part these days? Or am i just tripping. If anyone has a link that would be awesome 

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Finally got around to doing my swap. Everything is done, minus i gotta bleed my system a bit better. I have a question. I didnt use the shims that the fsm call for. One, cant find em. Two, ho pertinent are they? Is it gonna be life or death if i dont. Pic for reference to wtf im talking about! 

hDCyrwm.jpg

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30 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Won't hurt functionally, but might make more noise.

That's kinda what i figured. Any idea where to get them? 

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After some more research, perhaps these are mainly heat shields. There are sets of titanium versions on eBay for over $100/set 😅

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1 hour ago, thisismatt said:

After some more research, perhaps these are mainly heat shields. There are sets of titanium versions on eBay for over $100/set 😅

Hell with that. I think ill just rock on without them. I thought of making my own, but again, probably just gonna say f it.

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