1977 SR20DET 620 "Black and BlueBird"

[5t341tH]

Great updates. I am also into 3D printing. What material will you be printing with? TPU is pretty similar to rubber but I don't know if it can withstand the heat in the engine bay

[breezenahan]

15 minutes ago, 5t341tH said:

Great updates. I am also into 3D printing. What material will you be printing with? TPU is pretty similar to rubber but I don't know if it can withstand the heat in the engine bay

we will be SLA printing with Formlabs Flexible

[breezenahan]

Got the part printed! a video of the mechanical properties is also attached. i think it will do just fine.

 

 

[5t341tH]

that looks great. how is the temperature resistance of it?

[Valvebounce]

Make loads of them, and fund the rest of your build selling them. 

Mine has a second hole where the column change shaft stuck through too.

[FrankRizzo]

7 hours ago, Valvebounce said:

Make loads of them, and fund the rest of your build selling them. 

Mine has a second hole where the column change shaft stuck through too.

 

+1 here also!!

 

.

[breezenahan]

15 hours ago, 5t341tH said:

that looks great. how is the temperature resistance of it?

hard to say for sure, UV cured materials like this tend to have much broader ranges of operating temperature. i would expect this material to be good until at least 60C

 

 

as for making them and selling them, this was printed on a 3d printer that gets a lot more important jobs than this flange gasket. i dont think i will be able to make them regularly. If i buy a lot of my own material i might be able to figure it out what it would take for me to make them. i also have no idea what i would charge for something like that. We will see how it all works out

Edited September 30, 2020 by breezenahan

[sebpv]

Figure out how much material was required based on the part volume. Then determine how that translates into feed wire length and cost. I would think a part like this would be roughly 25-30$US including your profit.

 

Also willing to buy one if we can arrange shipping to 12919 🙂

Edited October 3, 2020 by sebpv

[breezenahan]

updates on the truck...mostly just photos of the painting progress and a cab on frame shot or 2. after 2 rounds of block sanding and priming, there is still some work to touch up the paint, but overall the truck looks incredible. too bad we gotta fix some scratches on the firewall because the mounts held the motor too far towards the back, no big deal but still!

 

[Valvebounce]

On 9/5/2020 at 11:23 AM, Valvebounce said:

Have you test fitted the body on the frame with the motor and gearbox on the chassis? It makes a lot less extra work 

 

 

[Valvebounce]

Looks great though man!

I cant wait to get some color on mine too!

[demo243]

This truck is going to be SWEET! Cant wait to see it.

[breezenahan]

Valvebounce, This is us test fitting the cab on the frame, the damage is minimal and we wanted to make sure we painted while the weather was accommodating. not sure the point youre trying to make.

 

thanks for the kind words everyone, not looking likely that the truck will be done before the clock ticks 20:21 but we are certainly well on the way. my father is building a new garage and house (notice how garage comes first, it always does) so progress on this scale may slow until that is finished. 

Edited January 11, 2021 by breezenahan

[Farmer]

On 9/30/2020 at 8:55 AM, breezenahan said:

hard to say for sure, UV cured materials like this tend to have much broader ranges of operating temperature. i would expect this material to be good until at least 60C

 

 

as for making them and selling them, this was printed on a 3d printer that gets a lot more important jobs than this flange gasket. i dont think i will be able to make them regularly. If i buy a lot of my own material i might be able to figure it out what it would take for me to make them. i also have no idea what i would charge for something like that. We will see how it all works out

Every 620 owner will buy one!.

 

 

I've had my 620 torn apart for 12 yrs. You surpassed my progress in your first 2 month. LoL. Good job and its looking great

[breezenahan]

hey guys quick question to start this off, what upgraded brake booster and master cylinder options do i have now that i'm running 4 wheel discs

 

anyway i have a small update, making progress every weekend for the most part

got the new engine mounts from]2eDeYe as i guess mine were from a previous version, also spaced the trans up to have the engine sit at the right spot. we're happy with how it is now.

 

we also got the limited slip backlash set and installed the LSD into our axle. we had a cylindrical spacer machined to sit in between the 2 axle for the hollow interior 0.885" diameter and 0.902" long, thanks to 5t341tH for the info. 

 

got a new set of wheels because the sawblade experiment is over. apparently these are really rare. going to redo the logos in powder blue. had them trued and refinished at a shop near us. they look amazing

 

 

Anyone see anything in the last photo they need? hate to throw out junk but thats where this stuff is going to end up.

 

[demo243]

Saw your saw blades on Facebook... want to run them so bad... but no way they will fit for me... those OZs are RAD!

 

Damn that engine is close to the firewall!

 

I actually ditched the booster on my 620... but that’s a bit of a personal preference since my 510 doesn’t have one and my booster was shot anyway. 280zx could be a possibility for you for an upgraded master- it’s what a lot of the 510 guys run, myself included. It’s a 15/16” front and rear disc set up. Don’t know about booster compatibility though... but if your running bigger calipers the bigger volume could be helpful. You’d have to do some research though to confirm the fitment.

 

truck looks to be coming along nicely!!!

[breezenahan]

12 hours ago, demo243 said:

Damn that engine is close to the firewall!

engine looks to be a bit closer than it is in reality, but i think thats about where we want it to be, as far back as possibly with acceptable clearance to keep the maximum amount of weight behind the front wheels 

 

it was a bummer the blades were too much for our truck, but i think these will look even better and have the added value of being unobtanium.

 

[]2eDeYe]

Stock booster is fine, unless there are space constraints? 

 

The 15/16 master is nice, but getting hard to find. There is a 1" wilwood upgrade for the ZX that you can get new for a decent price. 

 

Yeah, these engines have huge heads, I think the S15 head is even bigger. 
Was glad to hear the newer mounts did the trick. 

[breezenahan]

1 minute ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Stock booster is fine, unless there are space constraints? 

 

The 15/16 master is nice, but getting hard to find. There is a 1" wilwood upgrade for the ZX that you can get new for a decent price. 

 

Yeah, these engines have huge heads, I think the S15 head is even bigger. 
Was glad to hear the newer mounts did the trick. 

no space restraints just want to try and beef everything up as much as possible. 

[]2eDeYe]

Then ya, stock booster is fine. That Willwood master will do the trick. 

[FrankRizzo]

I got a brand new 15/16" master from Arizona Z car: http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html.

Thats where I got mine...

Dont forget a propositioning valve.

 

The correct booster is smaller in diameter and looks much better IMHO and is hard to find, the one you get on RockAuto is the larger one that almost hits the clutch master, but it works.

 

Hey Demo - I'd love to see how you eliminated your booster. Did you tap the firewall? I'd love to get rid of mine, but thought it needed some kind of adapter?

[]2eDeYe]

That is the same 1" master. How do you like it? 

[datzenmike]

The booster drops the effort about 50% so if running a 1" master without a booster will feel like stepping on a brick.

[breezenahan]

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

The booster drops the effort about 50% so if running a 1" master without a booster will feel like stepping on a brick.

we will be running a booster, a delete is not a realistic option for us, especially with the 1" willwood

the booster that came on our truck is in rough shape, though i dont know if it is just cosmetic or not. does anyone know a good place to source good ones if ours turns out to be faulty?

[demo243]

1 hour ago, FrankRizzo said:

 

Hey Demo - I'd love to see how you eliminated your booster. Did you tap the firewall? I'd love to get rid of mine, but thought it needed some kind of adapter?

I made a plate to replace the booster pedestal. Re-used the studs from the pedestal to bolt the plate to the fire wall and then bolted the master to the plate. I need to go back on of these days and remake it with a slightly thicker aluminum... there is a touch of flex, but its what I had on hand... I had to pick up a new push rod as well, but grabbed one from Summit and made a few small tweaks too it. Its all spelled out in my thread, linked to specific posts below. Let me know if you have any questions. 
 

 

End thread jack...

 

 

1 hour ago, breezenahan said:

engine looks to be a bit closer than it is in reality, but i think thats about where we want it to be, as far back as possibly with acceptable clearance to keep the maximum amount of weight behind the front wheels 

 

it was a bummer the blades were too much for our truck, but i think these will look even better and have the added value of being unobtanium.

 

Totally on board with getting it as far back as possible. Did that with the KA in my 510 by having the iron mounts set back a bit. 

Get this thing done this winter! We'll get @Crashtd420 and @mainer311 and go cruising in trucks this spring!