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Lug nut studs/brake drums


Rusty Dawg

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Lots of good suggestions....a puller is the only option in my mind.  As you mentioned, L-shaped bolts might do the trick and if not I will need to weld some studs.  Wayno mentioned that I most likely had the 5.13 rear end, so you just verified that.  I would like to have a manual for this truck.  Someone I was corresponding with in Guadalajara Mexico with a sweet PLG had lots of great info like manuals, but he has gone MIA in the past 6 weeks.  Where did you get yours?

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Obsessive watching of Ebay and a massive stroke of luck. Often finding things for these trucks is like an accident. People on this forum are a huge help for information and in some cases have put in tons of work to make things available for others (see vent wing rubbers). There is no 222 section of the forum (maybe there should be a 220, 221, 222, 223 section, but there are just so few around). Make sure to read all the 320 stuff and the "other Datsun" stuff too. The manual you are looking for is in a box somewhere with some good hood hinges, interior and exterior rear view mirrors, and maybe the rubber grommet that seals the firewall hole around the steering column

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Thanks for the insight nicklp.  Funny part is you are probably not too far off about where there is one of these manuals laying at this time.....I would be thrilled to find a manual along with the 3 screw driver side mirror, hood vent push rod and a driver side window mechanism.  Those are like spotting Bigfoot.

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This is what I have to show you, all the door crank assemblies I have are for the right door of a 320, they look somewhat like yours but your arm comes off at a strange angle which makes me think yours is bolted in 90 degrees off from the 320 door, I would need a better photo of both sides of your assembly to determine more.

The cleaner looking assembly in the photo below is for a stock L320 door, the black assembly is modified to try and use it for a L320 kingcab rear window(I made a 320 kingcab) but it didn't work.

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The other side

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Close up of the stock assembly and how the arm comes off.

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Close up of the modified one.

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The last one is for a 320, it doesn't appear they will interchange as the 320 gear pivot point appears to be farther away also the gear on your assembly is around a 180 sweep while the 320 gear has only a 90 degree sweep.

I guess what I would try first is try taking the taking your original apart as I expect from your photos that the crank gear is stripped and not the half moon gear, if you can get it apart without destroying it maybe the 320 crank can be installed in it's place, might be hard to get it back together though as that spring has some tension on it and you would need to get it back together with the proper tension, I expect one could use vise grips to hold it after it disengages the teeth and you twist the arm far enough past the two spot welds, clamp it down and then drill the 2 spot welds and then bend the tangs holding the crank part in and remove it then do the same thing to the 320 one and see if it will work in your assembly.

It likely would be easier to find a good one, but these early trucks are so rare over here, there are a few on here that have parts trucks, maybe they will offer you the crank assembly you need.

This guy is trying to sell a few of these trucks on here(Ratsun), here is a link to his sale, maybe he has extra doors???

 

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The crank is in fact stripped...you can pull it right out.  I didn't think about using the other one to maybe piece it together.  As for the other trucks, the one in the middle is now mine😃  I have a call into him to see if he might sell me a crank mechanism out of his 1960 222(hopefully it's the same).

 

Thanks Wayno.

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I've been through this one too.... Take the assembly apart like Wayno said. Be careful about those tabs and you might need to spot weld going back together. I happened to have a coworker who was a machinist and he remade the piece of the assembly that cracked. Those 320 ones look like the shaft is longer, but maybe you could shorten it. Apparently a 222 weakness

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I took mine apart and the piece inside is cracked in 3 places with a chunk missing, so not sure it it fixable.  I will check with a machine shop.  I was going to see about removing the stud in the one off the 320 that the handle attaches itself to since it is in fact longer.  If that works and mine can go in there without falling out, why couldn't I just replace my busted up one with the one off of the 320 crank?  Even if the teeth on the 320 isn't the same, I would just put the one off mine back into my crank mechanism.

 

Thoughts?

Edited by Rusty Dawg
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I do not know what they look like inside, if the little 320 gear(part that is broke in 3 pieces on yours???) will fit on your stock shaft then that is what I would do.

Photos are the best, if clear and at the proper angles one can make better suggestions.

Edited by wayno
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I don't even know what that is, is it metal or rubber?

 

Does the shaft that has the gear on it slide into that and if it does will the one in the 320 work?

 

Are the gear teeth on the end of the crank shaft(what the handle connects to) good, if they are not broken then I would ask again if the part in the 320 crank assembly would work in your 222 assembly?

 

I really don't want to tear one of mine apart even though it is modified, I can weld it back together, the only difference between a L320 window crank and a NL320 window crank is they welded a longer piece on it so what I have can be modified the same way, this is why I don't want to tear into any of mine.

Edited by wayno
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Rusty Dawg, that broken part you show is what the machinist duplicated for me. He may have welded the new one to the shaft as I think originally that broken piece is cast around a knurled area on the shaft. This was probably 5-6 years ago that I fixed mine (and no pictures, sorry). So did you take your 320 assembly apart to compare guts?

 

You are getting hit with some tough stuff right off the bat. 

 

I got inspired today and stuck my front swaybar back on with new bushings (less loose parts lying around the garage is good). I need to match up the DGV adapter to the intake and get that all back on the truck.

 

 

 

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I believe it to be metal, just not sure what type of metal.  The gear teeth are all in good condition.  I have not taken apart the mechanism off of the 320 yet, but I hope it's the same.  It would have been interesting to have seen your machinist make that piece since I am not quite sure how that piece is repairable.

 

Good to see that you've been inspired to get going on your truck once again nicklp.  Although it may take me years to finish a project such as this, I am the type that once I start I have to finish.  With a project like this one, I expect the worst and hope for the best.  Where can I find a picture of your ride?

 

I spoke to the individual whom I bought the truck from and he said if I couldn't make it work he would look to sell me the part off of this 1960 222 he has for sale.  

Edited by Rusty Dawg
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Posting pictures is a PITA! He didn't repair that part. I handed him the broken pot metal piece like you posted a picture of, he measured it, made a new one out of steel, attached that to the original shaft, handed it back, and I reassembled the regulator. Happy winding ever since! Although none in the last few years as I am taking forever putting the A15/5 speed in. BTW, you are not missing a chunk, it has that big notch in the side. Looks really worn though

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It appears you could remove the brake line from the brake cylinder, disconnect the e-brake cable, remove the 4 nuts holding the axle in,  and remove the axle/drum without removing the entire rear axle.

Originally I was thinking one could stack washers on top of each other till it was tight enough to keep the shaft centered and put it back together, but if it is supposed to have a notch in it that would  likely work, I just played with the 320 assemblies I have and both have what appears to be built in slop, so that must be the notch, maybe they are the same and you can use the 320 part.

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Hey nicklp, are you saying that it came from the factory with the missing piece?  Seems it would be one complete round piece with a hole in them middle.  Thanks for the schematics on the rear end....that's a keeper.

Edited by Rusty Dawg
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If I remember correctly, the pinion gear is attached to

something like a lathe dog, which fits in that slot. I bet you could make the stack of washers idea work if you cut notches in them and weld them to the shaft. 

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In fact you could probably just eliminate the slop feature and use a stack of un notched washers, cut the leg off the piece that holds the pinion gear, and weld it all so it's like one piece with the shaft. But maybe better to try as best to duplicate the original. I hope the 320 bit works

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My curiosity got the best of me, I just had to see how it was made, so this is what it looks like inside a 320 winder mechanism.

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It was a real pain to get that cover off the winder assembly, it took me likely 45 minutes, the rest of it is not bent up but it certainly could have been if I got tired of not making headway and started pounding on it hard enough to get things to move.

So nicklp is this what the inside looks like on the 220/221/222?

If the handle sticks farther out I see no way to transfer the center section with the notch in it as it is one piece, I suppose if one had to they could weld the piece with the gear on the end solid, there would be no play in the handle after that, but one does what they need to do to get something work with what they have.

Edited by wayno
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I think the notched disc is pot metal cast over a knurled section of the shaft, so no removing that. That is what it looks like on a 222. If the shaft is longer what about grinding the square part down farther, drilling a new pin hole, and lopping of the end? Rusty Dog should compare them side by side first in case there is something crazy like some part being a different dimension. The 320 part may be beefed up if you have never seen this breakage happen on a 320.

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It did not go back together easily for me and in my opinion it is harder to turn than it was before, but I had modified that one anyway and only kept it for parts which it still is.

I expect the spring inside it is to keep the window from going down or up by itself, it's a tight fit in there, I broke one of the tangs off putting it back together(bending it flat), messing with these things seems like it would be easy as that is why I pulled it apart, but it is not easy.

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Here they are side by side.  I don't believe that removing the stud in the 320 is an option in that I think the opening would lose its integrity thus the one off of my truck would not stay in there very long without a compound or tack weld.  Would cutting the stud on the 320 and drilling a new hole be an option?

C90-C1-CAA-38-D1-4207-99-D1-81707-D5-CAB

Edited by Rusty Dawg
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