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Lug nut studs/brake drums

Rusty Dawg

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I have had to drive them off before with a hammer and a large punch. If I recall, there are two sections in the backing plate that you can fit a drift into to hit the drums off from the back side. Again, heat the center of the drum, between the lug nuts and spray the section around the axle shaft with WD40 or similar. The cooling of the metal will suck in the lubricant. Heat again just prior to removal. If you can back off the brake adjusters, that will help too.

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Thanks for the suggestions Stoffregen.


I've already backed off the brakes and tried heat, but nothing.  I did spray BP on the axle last night to let it soak.  I will spray more today and I'll try to punch it out while applying heat tomorrow.  I was wondering if the key that is in there needs to come out first, although I don't know how I would do so.  It seems to just be in there as a guide.  The front brakes did not have a key.

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I had a trick for getting the drums off my 521, I had a bar bell shaft that was just over 6' long, I would remove the wheels, place the bar bell shaft on top of the leaf springs(rear), I would put the end of the shaft on the back edge of the drum I wanted off and I would then go to the other side and hit the end of the shaft with a sledge.

Remember that there are 2 Phillips head screws holding them early drums on the axle ends, you have to take them out.

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The screws on the drums are called grub screws in british parlance.  They were put in to keep the drum in place in the event your studs broke and you lost the wheel.  I soak the axle and the stud openings with pb blaster an then use a brass drift and 5 pound hammer on the outer edge of the drum to break them loose. I usually turn the drum as I do this.  It may take some patience.  When removed cleanup the axle and stud openings before you remount the drum to make the next time easier.  My jags and the Riley are built this way.

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18 minutes ago, Rusty Dawg said:

Nothing here sirs...



You have a Woodruff key on the axel shaft.  Try penetrating oil on that. rust just may be contributing to the "sticktion".  A last resort would be to find the world's largest 3 point gear puller, attach it to 3 equally spaced points on the rim, put the central shaft on the axel and crank away.  You will either crack the drum, warp the drum, or pull the drum off.

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Geez.....you should have just led with that picture!

Go to a parts store that will rent/loan gear/hub pullers.  Get the biggest one you can.  When you have a lot of tension on it, then try the heat and hammer.

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Yeah, I didn't realize that it was a two piece shaft with a woodruff key.


Still, heat will be your friend and you may need to use a lot. Here's a trick, if you get the metal hot and fail to remove it while it's hot, give up and walk away. Why? Because the heat applied eventually soaks into the shaft and grows that too, negating any benefits from heating. So, heat until smoking, but not until it starts to change the color of the metal, try removal probably with a puller on this setup. If a few minutes go by without success, try again after it cools.

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The hole on the upper left of the picture appears to be the adjuster nut, you will need to adjust it so the brake shoes clear the drum and the drum moves freely. I'm not sure what the other hole is for.


Edited by Ooph!
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