Jump to content

Front shock help


Recommended Posts

Hello, I recently bought this front shock / strut (whichever one it is) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,510,2.0l+l4,1210026,suspension,strut,7584 and today I finally got around to installing them. I looked a a few videos and talked a bit to a mechanic I know and it seemed simple enough. I spend about a hour getting the strut assembly off and undid the screw at the top, but I can't find a way to get the old shock out. Is there even a way or am I missing it? Thanks. 

Link to comment
  • Replies 8
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

The link does not show a picture so I don't know if you're replacing the entire strut or just putting a new insert in. If an insert, this is the shock absorber.

 

You have the coil spring off???

 

Screw at the top?? The gland nut?? This thing??

FURFMuE.jpg

 

 

25oC345.jpg

 

If they have never been replaced they come from the factory in an hydraulic oil 'bath'. So have a pail to empty the oil into.

 

Get a dental pick and carefully lift out the O ring shown...

 

LkntTC7.jpg

 

Gland nut and O ring

 

kclOpZx.jpg

 

The damper (shock) looks like this...

 

HpvPjHC.jpg

 

Up to 1/3 liter of old hydraulic oil inside the strut tube. Just empty out and put the new insert in.

 

jazNtRe.jpg

 

What I did was just keep the damper and replace the thin oil with 20w motorcycle fork oil. The thicker viscosity oil is harder to push through the valves in the damper and this firms them up. New shocks for $17.

 

Link to comment

So it turns out the new inserts don't fit at all, they are about 3 inches too long and I don't see a way to install the complete strut, and even if I could the ride height would be way off. What's the process of putting in the new oil? Do I just take the insert apart, pour in a certain amount of oil and that's it?

 

Link to comment

Yup, that oring will hold it in, so dig that sucka out, then the internal parts should come out!  Sounds like you will have parts like what datzenmike posted pics of.  All of the "aftermarket" manufacturers of strut inserts (shocks) were self contained units that drop down inside the strut tube.  If the strut insert is SHORTER & the big gland nut does not tighten down on it, you will simply need to make a shim to take up the play.......the strut insert MUST be tight inside the strut tube.  That shim can go in the bottom OR on the top. 

Link to comment

I doubt there s a specific cartridge for the A10 so something else can be substituted but it will probably have to be shorter. Just stack cheap washers in the bottom of the strut tube as shims.

 

 

 

Piston rod and cylinder below it. No need to take it apart.

tYmkskP.jpg

 

On the oil bath type. Compress and expand the damper to expel any old hydraulic oil. Replace the damper in the strut and pour in the replacement oil around it. Put the O ring on and gland nut with the spindle (wheel) end down, slowly expand the piston rod all the way, then hold upside down and compress the piston rod. Repeat 2-3 times and when there is equal resistance for the full length of both strokes the air is bled out. Remove gland nut and O ring and top up to withing 1/4 " from top for heat expansion. Assemble and check that there is firm resistance through both strokes.

 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.