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510revisited

69 datsun 510 gas pedal height adjustment

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Im in the process of building a throttle cable for my holley sniper setup. Its a universal lokar cable. My question, before i go too far, is what is the pedal height adjustment. I have the fsm pdf's but cant seem to find the info. Any and all is appreciated. 

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I just set the carb to full open when the pedal is on the floor. The height falls out to whatever when the throttle closes.

 

 

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I am not lucky enough to have a 510, but I have 521 trucks, and they use a throttle cable, not a turning linkage.

It is a simple setup, the gas pedal is a lever, with a center pivot.  You push on the pedal with your foot, and the top of the lever (pedal) moves away from the firewall, pulling the inner cable, and the outer cable is anchored to the firewall, and the intake manifold, with a bracket.  The inner cable goes over a bell crank, or a pulley connected to the throttle shaft.

 

How much is the linear distance you have to move the throttle cable attached to your carb to go from idle to WOT?  Add a little extra for adjustment. 

A 521 gas pedal is about 7 1/2 inches from the pivot to the pedal, and about 6 inches from the pedal to the cable attachment.

That means the pedal actually moves a little farther than the cable, or has a little more height above the floor, than the linear distance the throttle cable actually moves.  There is also an adjustable stop on the floor of a 521 that controls how far the pedal goes down.

 

You want the throttle plate to be moved to WOT, 90 degrees to the carb throttle body, but you do not want the cable to pull hard tight against the carb throttle WOT stop, and putting unnecessary pressure on the throttle cable or pivot.  This breaks the cable, or the pedal pivot.

 

Finally, make sure the engine has a good electrical ground to the body of the car.  If this ground goes away, or is forgotten, the car body will ground through the throttle cable, and destroy the cable.

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Oh man, back in the day I welded two 521 throttle cables for lack of a proper ground and no battery tie down..

 

I recently swapped R-1 carbs on and the 'bell crank' on them is smaller than an Hitachi by about 1/2. This meant the pedal traveled a much shorter distance than I was used to. It was more off / on, than rolling into it. I had to move the fulcrum point on the lever for the gas pedal up, and make a new mounting position. This increased the pedal travel making it easier to drive it.

 

I don't know about the Sniper, maybe the bell crank at the throttle can be adjusted to get the same thing?

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There is a bunch of adjustability. Im just trying to fine tune it. I have self diagnosed ocd about a lot of things. Even if it is "hidden" it has to be "factory" right. The sniper doesnt have any adjustment, but the cable does. Its coming together, nicely and slowly. I remember seeing the diagram once i think.. just curious. 

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I would think the factory adjustment would be irrelevant.... 

I would just make sure you can get full throttle first and then take out the slack with the adjusters so the throttle closes....  

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Full throttle (WideOpenThrottle) is key & pedal COMFORT.  We fab custom accelerator set ups in our vintage race Z cars.  You should set up a pedal STOP bracket, on the bulkhead, behind the pedal.  This bracket should have an adjustable STOP (ie a bolt head) that the pedal would just about touch at WOT.  You likely do NOT want the pedal standing straight up & down, should tilt toward the firewall like the factory.  My guess is that 45deg angle on the floor might be TOO MUCH TILT toward the firewall, so maybe ~30deg..........??  Hope that helps!

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8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I would think the factory adjustment would be irrelevant.... 

I would just make sure you can get full throttle first and then take out the slack with the adjusters so the throttle closes....  

This is what im gonna go for. 

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