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as you may know over the past few weeks ive been asking you guys heaps of questions about how to fix the L16 in my Buggy, i had 0 mechanical knowledge when i started out and learnt everything i did in this video from you fellas 🤟cheers

if you wanna see how your efforts have helped me out, checkout the YouTube video i made where i rip apart my L16. pretty good watch for learning too if you're a beginner like me

p.s there will be another coming in a week or so where we start it up!


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Fellas just topped U radiator and coolant started pissin out from everywhere, mainly out of the intake ports. Took out a speak plug to set back to TDC and coolant came pissing out thru the spark plug holes!!!!



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13 hours ago, datzenmike said:








Tighten in this sequence to 20 foot pounds.

Then in this sequence to 40

Then to 60


Don't forget the two small10 mm bolts down into the timing cover.

We filled it with coolant and all of a sudden there was coolant come out between the I take manifold/carbi. 

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That doesn't mean a thing if the head is not flat or warped, it may have got very hot way back when it was parked(blown headgasket), this is why I asked if you had checked it with a straight edge, if the head is warped/not flat coolant could flow right past the head gasket into the cylinders and then come out the intake/exhaust valves if they are open.

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You need to understand that to check the head it has to be off the engine block, you put a straight edge on it and see if you can get a feeler gauge between the straight edge and the surface of the head, I don't know the tolerances one has before it has to be milled at a machine shop or you can do what Dmike did and put sand paper on a perfectly flat piece of glass and push the head back and forth till it is all clean, Dmike did this but I don't know which thread it is in, maybe he will chime in again with that info.

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The head has water holes and you have dual carbs so the manifold is now plugging them so it has to be perfect flat too much rtv to prevent uneven surface . Ok maybe a slight cunt hair around the water ports.

most people use 1/4 pipe plugs to plug the water holes. if it leaked it can get sucked in the adjacent ports thus you need to pull the plugs and turn the motor over to drain the pistons out of water . This would be a start I’m sure the head is mostly ok

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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40 minutes ago, byrnzy said:

We filled it with coolant and all of a sudden there was coolant come out between the I take manifold/carbi. 


The intake and exhaust manifolds use the same gasket and very hard to get them clamped properly. The very bottom 4 studs are shared between the intake and the exhaust. They use a 'cone washer' that bridges across them. The intake is not stock and that looks like a header??? Probably not the same thickness so the cone washer will tighten up on the thicker of the two and leak.


BTW I got a headache watching that Blair Witch Project editing.

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Dude you took the head off?Why

its the intake exhaust gasket not flat cause you put rtv on there if you must there is a spray on version.

get a 1/4 pipe plug you need to use a tap to use the pipe plug then use the tap till the pipe plug is flush with the head surface and don’t need to worry about this again or maybe eZer to go back to a Weber DGV carb and rout the waterline but Australia don’t need it as it’s warm there


the vid was to much for me

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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What is that red shit all over everything???


look at you head it has 2 water holes that where the water is coming from

1/4 pipe plug it should be on Ratsun some where what it is

if you can’t figure this out go down to walkabout creek I’m sure there is a Abo that can figure this out for you

these motors are simple

get another intake exhaust gasket and try again but myself I would use a pipe plug to plug the water holes

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I initially asked if you had checked the head to see if it was flat, I was not saying it is warped/not flat, but it was the first thing I thought of.

I believe Hainz is familiar with that intake manifold,  but it seems like it would have leaked before unless you didn't get the intake/exhaust manifolds back on properly, that could have had coolant coming out the intake/exhaust and below them on the side of the block, Dmike mentioned the thick washers and the possible different heights of the manifolds, that doesn't mean they are different heights but they could be, seems like that would have been taken care of before you ever touched it as it would have leaked everywhere before also.

Were the thick washers on the bottom side flat, were they stepped(one side thick, one side thinner)?

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put intake back together with new gasket 

put bolts or nuts on

the lower bolts will have a thick washer the mates the intake and exhaust flanges evenly at the same time. Evenly torq the bolts/nuts


now when you start up the motor you have to watch as the water expands it will try to find a way out. Then tighten more and hopefully it will stop leaking.

but 2pipeplugs would be better and not need to torq the shit out of those bolts.i think it’s a 9/16-12 tap that I used to thread the pipe plug.but one has to look it up the drill bit if needed if at all as the Datsun size might be perfect.also use a short tap as if long it hits inside the head and the plug will not go in flush.As it’s tapered so when plug goes in it tightens up and then plug won’t turn anymore.


also I drill a 1/8 in the thermostat also, but in the vid I didn’t see a stat in the housing so I don’t know if you are running one or not

goodluck going to sleep

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Sweet thank heaps fellas🙏


I'm goin' back next weekend and I'll try sort it out.

There was some fat washers that bolted the exhaust to the block whilst securing the intake at the bottom but my guess is non of em were on tight enough (they were loose as fuck when I unbolted them) or head gasket was fucked even tho it's brand new.


Checked to see if head was flat and it was couldn't get the smallest gauge in under anywhere, However, when I took the head off the pistons had heaps of coolant in them. Not good I'm guessing.


Gonna order another gasket set and this time I shouldn't use that gasket goo shit right?


We were running a thermostat but we took it out cos it restricted the flow of coolant too much and is probably one of the reasons it overheated. gonna get a new one.


I still have no idea about where the water holes and pipe plugs and shit are, could you upload a picture/diagram etc?


But yeah next week I'll double check everything and make sure it's all torqued properly


Cheers fellas really appreciate it

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Why order a whole gasket set?

if you took the head off you need a new head gasket and off coarse a new intake/exhaust gasket.


Goo as you say is called RTV.i wouldn’t use it or very lightly wear it barely visible . Like potties surface maybe. And if you get this running always check the oil in case water gets in there from the front cover water passage.


if the head is off take it to a machine shop and they can put the pipe plugs in as to be honest Your going to fuck this up

I was hoping some one else post the pipe plug and drill and tape set and how it works as I’m using my GF iPhone and I don’t know how to paste it



or take this to Datsport in Adelaide SA and they can get you fixed up.


Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Let the gasket do it's job. It's thick and crushes into irregularities to seal. RTV not needed in almost all cases if you do a good job of checking and cleaning. Usually it squishes out when clamping down the bolts. People don't realize that it squishes into the engine as well and ends up in the cooling system or oil pan and can block things.


Found this RTV worm inside the head. Some idiot used RTV rather than a gasket on the water pump and this is the result...




I would have left the manifolds on the head when taken off. Why not put them on now so you can get at the bolts then lift everything onto the block already together???


Always run a thermostat. If still overheating it isn't the 'stat. Didn't you just change the head gasket that was blown???? that was likely the cause. The old thermostat may or may not have been sticking. Try a new one. The engine runs most efficient/powerful when at about 180F.

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the way you have the carb hangin on there is fine in my opinion but bolt the exhaust manifold on there and make sure you get the bolts and nut tight but don’t over do it as it’s a aluminum head
stop using that Goo(rtv)


ps that looks like a 2 nd rate gasket set.is that a made in Japan set?? I know Durapro headgaskets are good.As they made in Japan and that intake gasket is ok also

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If them lower nuts holding the intake exhaust on were loose/not very tight that was likely your problem, also when you put the exhaust and intake on you need to put them both on kinda loose with the intake nuts on finger tight, get them both on and in position, then start tightening the lower bolts first as they are hard to access, then tighten the upper bolts a little, then tighten the bottom bolts tight, then tighten the upper bolts tight.

If the intake manifold covers the coolant holes below the two intake holes then I would put a thin coat of sealer on both sides of the gasket around them holes and then install everything, it seems like that would be the case as at some point this rig ran just fine with the holes in the head.

Now about the thermostat, this is an L16, I have no idea if it has a by-pass, if you said it restricted the flow so I will assume it has no by-pass, this means you need to drill an eighth inch hole in the new thermostat as a by-pass as new thermostats do not have that hole you need unless you have a thermostat by-pass.


Here is a photo of the intake/exhaust gasket, see the holes the 2 pens are pointed at, these are the coolant holes in the head we are talking about.



Here is a photo of the thermostat, the one on the right has no hole while the one on the left has a hole drilled in it, you likely need a hole.



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