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datsuntech

BEST LIVE AXLE W/ LSD AND DISC BRAKES?

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.... or just money.

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So when I was looking for a rear end for my race car I was kind of going through the same thing you are now. ( and yes I'm kind of cheap).🙄.

Its been a while, so cut me some slack if I'm a little off....

The ford 7.5" was very hard to come by in my area and are said to be weak ( compared to what?), also gears and limited slip hard to come by.

The 8" ( which is what I'm using) are a bit hard to come by as well. Gear selection is good and limited slip options are good as well ( after market). Grafting on disc brakes is fairly easy. I think this unit is lighter than a pathfinder, but not by much. If you know your way around rear ends you could shorten it yourself using 2 short axles.

The Pathfinder rear is plenty strong and comes with disc drakes, however for my uses the ratio and limited slip options were not right. And yes its heavy.

Seems to me if you start looking at Alfa and other exotics your going to price your self out of the ball park.

Definitely some compromises will be in order, (most probably in the weight dept.) and the do it yourself stuff will help. 

 

Looking forward to see what you come up with.

 

 

Edited by GT2
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ford 7.5 will be strong enough for NA 4 cylinder stuff.. i have a ford 8.8 in my s10 200sx.

 

early ranger is the diffs you want they are 56 inches and can be narrowed even more than this by using two short side axles. they are 5x114.5 bolt pattern.  if you want a narrow 8.8 you wanna look for a 90-92 ranger. the later ones/explorer ones are wayyyyy wider

Those years have 28 spline axles though, they use the same axles as a 7.5. some mustang stuff works too but they come in 4x4.25" pattern. 

 

the ford LSD works good enough for datsuns for sure. theres many gear ratios in the junkyard so you can get what you want. 

 

they arent that heavy once you take the big ugly drum brakes off and cut all the shit off of them. compared to an H165 - yeah heavy, but nothing compared to a 9 inch ford.

 

there is also two different driveshaft flanges you can use, both use 1310 style u joints.  on that note, spicer makes a yoke for datto trannys to take a 1310 joint too so you can make a driveshaft with u joints that dont break.

 

ford 8.8's are overkill as they are pretty much the equivilant to a gm 12 bolt (4000 lb big block chevy rear diff) but are good for drag racing.

 

for everything else go with a 7.5... you might kill it if you have a big turbo motor clutch kicking with sticky tires but i doubt it. 

 

my diff cost 100 cad at the junkyard, maybe another 100 to put new seals and bearings in it... 20 bucks work of paint.. bought a chome diff cover..

40 dollar s13 rear disks and cheap ass rockauto calipers... made my own brackets.... prob like 350 bucks to do the diff swap..

the yoke was like 70 cad, i had a machine shop shorten a mustang foxbody driveshaft for me for a flat of beer 😄

 

i dont factor in my time to my own car any more or ive literally would have spent 99999999 dollars worth of my time on it lol

Edited by scooter
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8 hours ago, scooter said:

ford 7.5 will be strong enough for NA 4 cylinder stuff.. i have a ford 8.8 in my s10 200sx.

 

early ranger is the diffs you want they are 56 inches and can be narrowed even more than this by using two short side axles. they are 5x114.5 bolt pattern.  if you want a narrow 8.8 you wanna look for a 90-92 ranger. the later ones/explorer ones are wayyyyy wider

Those years have 28 spline axles though, they use the same axles as a 7.5. some mustang stuff works too but they come in 4x4.25" pattern. 

 

the ford LSD works good enough for datsuns for sure. theres many gear ratios in the junkyard so you can get what you want. 

 

they arent that heavy once you take the big ugly drum brakes off and cut all the shit off of them. compared to an H165 - yeah heavy, but nothing compared to a 9 inch ford.

 

there is also two different driveshaft flanges you can use, both use 1310 style u joints.  on that note, spicer makes a yoke for datto trannys to take a 1310 joint too so you can make a driveshaft with u joints that dont break.

 

ford 8.8's are overkill as they are pretty much the equivilant to a gm 12 bolt (4000 lb big block chevy rear diff) but are good for drag racing.

 

for everything else go with a 7.5... you might kill it if you have a big turbo motor clutch kicking with sticky tires but i doubt it. 

 

my diff cost 100 cad at the junkyard, maybe another 100 to put new seals and bearings in it... 20 bucks work of paint.. bought a chome diff cover..

40 dollar s13 rear disks and cheap ass rockauto calipers... made my own brackets.... prob like 350 bucks to do the diff swap..

the yoke was like 70 cad, i had a machine shop shorten a mustang foxbody driveshaft for me for a flat of beer 😄

 

i dont factor in my time to my own car any more or ive literally would have spent 99999999 dollars worth of my time on it lol

Thanks! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

As soon as it warms up here I'll be scouring the junkyards in search of  a diff.

Do you happen to have the part# for that yoke?

 

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On 3/25/2020 at 5:46 AM, datsuntech said:

Thanks! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

As soon as it warms up here I'll be scouring the junkyards in search of  a diff.

Do you happen to have the part# for that yoke?

 

dana spicer# 2-3-15961X

 

the z car depot one is cheaper and looks different than the spicer one.. hmmm

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11 hours ago, scooter said:

dana spicer# 2-3-15961X

 

the z car depot one is cheaper and looks different than the spicer one.. hmmm

I looked this up. This is a 32 spline yoke which IIRC is for a FS5R30A.

The typical Datsun/Nissan trans FS5W71A,B,C is 24 spline. Which will fit with the Z-car depot yoke.

Still good to know, but probably overkill for my application.

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whoops! i was not sober when i got that part number.

its supposed to be  2-3-13461X for fs5w71A,B,C or automatic.

 

 

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The toughest part of this is 1200s are so narrow. I bought a 1200 parts car (race car project) for $1000 as it came with a car H190, then I paid $1300 for an alloy center with LSD. I tool what I needed and sold off what I didn't for just over $1300.

 

So I only paid $1000 to get the set up in my car, with the alloy drums (Z-car) and alloy housing it only weighs 4lbs more than the standard 1200 H145. The real issue is tire clearance, fortunately I run a Hoosier race tire which is only 20.7" tall. If it weren't a race car the widest tire I could run would be a 175, anything wider would require cutting, flaring and rewelding the rear fenders.

 

I researched endlessly and never found anything that was both cheap and fit. In the end I just bit the bullet.

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This specific 1200 is far from pristine so we're going to flare it anyway. Flares coupled with FWD offset wheels and it shouldn't be to bad. As near as I can figure the Ford 7.5 is only 3" wider so it should work.

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The H190 is 3" wider as well. I originally tried FWD wheel but they fouled the fins on the alloy drums...……...with discs you should have no problem. 

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