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slowlearner

Alternative Lower Control arm for 510s?

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Still a 510 newbie. I've been watching a few DIY drifter vids and seeing people fit R31 Skyline LCAs on corollas and the like for an extra bit of track/camber. I was wondering if there was some sort of similar trick for 510s?

 

P.s. I know you can cut/lengthen them, but anything that involves welding suspension/steering parts is strictly illegal where I live.

 

 

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You want to remove some excess positive? camber caused by lowering your car?

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Can you use adjustable lower control arms, with heim joints?  There are a lot of companies in the US selling those

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5 hours ago, slowlearner said:

Something like that. But no, the car isn't lowered and won't be.

 

Well does it need correcting or not? Or are you trying for a 'look'?

10m9cyvh6ng11.jpg

 

If mods are not allowed to the lower control arm you could have the transverse link moved outward on the front cross member by the amount you want the bottom of the tire moved outward. The transverse link is the lower control arm's mounting point on the cross member.

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Looks? LOL 😄 Driving a 510 for looks? 🤣

 

But seriously, no. Not for looks. I'm trying for an extra degree or two of negative camber for motorkhanas.

 

I'll have a look at the cross member like you suggest. 🙂  

Edited by slowlearner

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There are after market 'camber plates' that fit on the strut tower and will adjust the tops of the strut toward the inside of the car tilting the wheel top inward. Effectively forcing a negative camber. If you can find a 710 the top hats are slightly off set and will do the same thing. See below how the top of the strut nut is inward?..

 

EmLpEvV.jpg 

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710 lower control arms are 3/8" longer than 510 arms, but otherwise the same. So with the offset upper insulators Mike posted above, plus 710 LCAs, you get a decent gain in negative camber with a stealth stock look. 

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The futofab ones take stock ball joints and have sealed inner heims that would keep inspectors happy compared to all other brands.  When buying camber plates get the kind that run the spring on a separate bearing so all the load isn’t going through a 3/4 inch pillow ball like the other manufacturers use. Having all the load in the pillow ball is a fail in oz law but if it’s on its own bearing then it should be ok

Edited by scooter

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Those should only be used to correct camber not add to it.

 

No two cars are lowered exactly the same so the bump steer spacers should be matched to what is needed, not some generic amount. Thirty-five mm is way over an inch. I lowered my car and only needed 1/2" to bring the LCA down to perfect horizontal. Thirty-fivemm would have corrected and then gone 1/2" past and added bump steer the other side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Since you said your car isn't and will not be lowered, I'm assuming you are on stock springs.  I'm not sure what diameter stock springs are, but keep in mind when people run camber plates at the top they are almost always running coil overs since it's the easiest solution to lower a 510.  Coilovers utilize a significantly narrower spring than stock springs.  All that being said, with camber plates and stock springs you may run into the issue where the camber plate has the adjustability, but adjusting it that far will result in the stock spring hitting your strut tower.  I'm not sure if this is the case, but I bet it if isn't it'll at least be close.  I would do some measuring and if it the springs would hit the strut tower, you're best bet will be the LCA's and camber plates together.  This will allow you to increase track width with the LCA which increases camber, then you'd use your camber plates to center the spring in the strut tower so it doesn't rub.

Also, if you have a welder you can make your own adjustable LCAs for pretty cheap by cutting the inner bushing off and putting a heim joint in, much like Ermish Racing does.

Edited by BrandonS

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