edekalil Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 (edited) Ok I've seen info on using a ka oil pump on a l20b for higher oil pressure. I have an l20b that has all been to the machine shop way back (Block,Head,and Crank and such with all the new pistons ready to go on the rods, cam tower shim kit and such) Ihave a mild cam to put in it with a u67 head with square exaust ports not those emissions inserts. I was thinking should I use a high pressure oil pump option and I thought why not. Any input on what pump to use new sense all has been redone new. Doing an l20b for the first time as well by myself so any other suggestions welcomed. Put up some oics just for the he'll of it, all will need a light cleaning and some polishing but it's all been to the shop and done up and i have all the gaskets and berings for it. Edited February 29, 2020 by edekalil Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Definitely do the oil pump..... I have a part number for a Hitachi.... cost me about $50 .... Let me find it... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 https://www.google.com/search?q=Hitachi+OUP0023+Oil+Pump&oq=Hitachi+OUP0023+Oil+Pump&aqs=chrome..69i57j33.1666j0j7&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 Hitachi OUP0023 Oil Pump 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Two things about the cam... Have you thought about lash pads? And it's recommended to recondition or replace the rockers if your replacing the cam.... 1 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 35 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Definitely do the oil pump..... I have a part number for a Hitachi.... cost me about $50 .... Let me find it... Thanks Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 26 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Two things about the cam... Have you thought about lash pads? And it's recommended to recondition or replace the rockers if your replacing the cam.... I have not but did read something about that, any suggestions on that is welcomed as well. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 I'm not sure how you would choose new ones... technically you would have to install everything ( or atleast 1 rocker arm) and check the wipe pattern on the lash pad and go from there.... When I did my cam I did a regrind and they were able to supply the appropriate lash pads without me having to think... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 So is this your first motor build or just your first L20b? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Just to be clear the high volume pumps only moves more oil. The max pressure is about the same at 55-65 PSI as the regular oil pump. The higher volume produced will allow a higher hot idle pressure and reach the maximum sooner and at a lower RPM. The max pressure is set by the regulator spring in the pump. If you have oil squirters on the pistons or an oil supply to a turbo or even a cam spray bar, this is the pump to have. It's just insurance on any L or Z series engine. I had an old L20B that hot idled at 17 PSI. With no other change but a used KA oil pump it jumped to 29 PSI. 2 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Well I built an l16 way way back, a older friend who was into MG's and who had a lot of knowledge helped me on it. This will be my first time doing an l20b and doing it by myself. I don't think it will be any trouble just worked on motors most of my life. I have plenty of reading material on it. I feel it will be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 Just take your time. Write things you did down so you can fact check yourself later. Have a "Don't forget to do this..." list. and check it off. Never assume. 1 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted February 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 7 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Just take your time. Write things you did down so you can fact check yourself later. Have a "Don't forget to do this..." list. and check it off. Never assume. Thank you Mike, I for sure will. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 50 minutes ago, edekalil said: Well I built an l16 way way back, a older friend who was into MG's and who had a lot of knowledge helped me on it. This will be my first time doing an l20b and doing it by myself. I don't think it will be any trouble just worked on motors most of my life. I have plenty of reading material on it. I feel it will be fine. That's kind of what i thought.... They are a pretty straightforward motor to assemble... The only thing that almost screwed me was I lost 1 of the dowel pins for the front timing cover.... make sure you have 2... that keeps the oil pump spindle inline with the distributor and crank gear.... And with the head as stripped down as it is now is a great time to deschround the valve area and also if you install a spark plug you'll see some extra threads .... you can prep that area back too..... Simple dremel tool works great ..... 1 Quote Link to comment
edekalil Posted March 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: That's kind of what i thought.... They are a pretty straightforward motor to assemble... The only thing that almost screwed me was I lost 1 of the dowel pins for the front timing cover.... make sure you have 2... that keeps the oil pump spindle inline with the distributor and crank gear.... And with the head as stripped down as it is now is a great time to deschround the valve area and also if you install a spark plug you'll see some extra threads .... you can prep that area back too..... Simple dremel tool works great ..... Thank you for that advice, when I first got my 7 year old 510 back in 79 (I was 22 then) I thought over head cam? That freacked me out about how to work on that thing. Many many years later when I bought the Goon I finally at some time got some info and learned more about taking the head off with out loosening the timing chain. After that it became much more understandable. I'm not in a hurry on it just want to get it all back together right and on the stand and then wrap it with that cling wrap so no critters get in it and leave it on the motor stand till it's time to install. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Crash whos cam you have? Lash pad size is best guess at that regrimds are about in the 180-200 range. A new cam is about 150 I could have gotten away with 140 if they made them new rockers are best. I got mine when they was on sale at a site for like 9-11$ pax and got like 3/4 sets which will last 1000 years at the rate I’m going key is getting the side seals and rear main seal in correct.i would get the Nissan side seals as they go in either way the aftermarket ones are like 2 . I have the moto block done then I just assemble it if I can do it anybody can Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Rockers and cam wear... First thing is DON'T use today's oil. Makers have been lowering the anti scuff ingredient ZDDP. It's now at at least 1/2 what it used to be at back when these engines were made. Today's engines use roller cams that don't need it and it fucks up the new catalytic converters so they are phasing it out. Your best bet is to simply switch your oil to one that has the higher levels. For this I use a diesel oil like Shell Rotella T4 although there are lots of others. I use this because it is available everywhere and I don't have to buy it and add every oil change. The metal to metal scuffing is accumulative, doesn't happen over night but once worn it's worn. Protect what you have left. Rockers can be 're-conditioned' by pulling and rocking them over fine wet sandpaper on a sheet of glass. If in fair shape never throw them away if you find any on an old engine. The old ones are the good ones. I wouldn't trust anything made in China for hardness, quality or wear resistance. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Crash whos cam you have? Lash pad size is best guess at that regrimds are about in the 180-200 range. A new cam is about 150 I could have gotten away with 140 if they made them My cam was a regrind, springs, retainers and lash pads all came Schneider Racing Cams.... I dont remember what size the lash pads were... but they got it right.... I verified the wipe pattern and everything was good.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 44 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: My cam was a regrind, springs, retainers and lash pads all came Schneider Racing Cams.... I dont remember what size the lash pads were... but they got it right.... I verified the wipe pattern and everything was good.... Hey crash ole buddy, where and how much was the cam regrind. Id like to up my cam, at a later date, and would like to explore this direction... im sure others wanna know too Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) Yeah I got a Schneider also but is new.Theyonly do regrinds now I had a assortment of lash pads already i have 2 webcamshafts in the garage but they don’t make new either. Isky still might have new Edited March 1, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said: Yeah I got a Schneider also but is new.Theyonly do regrinds now I had a assortment of lash pads already i have 2 webcamshafts in the garage but they don’t make new either. Isky still might have new I have only seen old stock new ones.... Maybe someone is making new cams for the L but I haven't looked in a while.... 2 hours ago, 510revisited said: Hey crash ole buddy, where and how much was the cam regrind. Id like to up my cam, at a later date, and would like to explore this direction... im sure others wanna know too http://schneidercams.com/naturallyaspirated-7.aspx Approx 130 to 150 depending on the grind... They have everything to go with it except for rocker arms.... I bought factory Nissan rocker arms but they were not cheap.... Itm also makes some or you can recondition what you have.... Mine were horrible looking so I went with new ones.... Edited March 1, 2020 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Take your favorite L20B cam in and have it reground. I don't trust today's metallurgy. Well I trust the metallurgy I just don't trust who does it or any hardening processes. Quote Link to comment
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