Now she wont start

[Payco]

Ok, so last week I managed to get the SSS coupe started with the help of a few folk on here. I removed the airbox, squirted some petrol into the carbs having lifted the carb pistons and bingo she was off and running. Turned her over every day without issue but end of last week we had two heavy frosts (-3). I started her Sat but she died on me, tried to re start her and shes not playing. I think I may now have squirted too much fuel after maybe 6 or 8 different sessions of squirting fuel into the carbs. She is going into the garage for a full service and check over in 3 weeks time and the garage has offered to come and collect her. I am not at all worried about her health but waiting 3 weeks to drive her is going to be a hard challenge to suck up.

 

Does anyone have any ideas or advice on how I might revive her. Will checking the float chambers to see if they are over filled with fuel be one route to explore ?

Oh, and the boot (trunk) lock has jammed up having opened before. I took the rear seat back out and fire wall but the petrol tank is difficult to work around to get to the boot release from inside. Any ideas before the locksmith is called ?.

 

On a separate note she has polished up a dream and I am a very happy new owner and excited for the spring and summer.

 

Thanks in advance (again)

Martin 

Edited January 20, 2020 by Payco

[banzai510(hainz)]

put new spark plugs in there and retry.

Don't take it to a garage these are simple cars.

 

 

use a broom stick to pop the latch

[Payco]

dumb question but how does the latch pop / work ?. I tried this sat with a long pole, pushing the latch from top to bottom, left to right but no joy. Whats the right way to approach it ?

Thanks buddy.

Assuming from the below image its the case of trying to reach through the boot between the petrol tank and getting a metal pole in the gap and pushing the hook part to the right to unlock her. Might have to fabricate a pole.

 

Edited January 20, 2020 by Payco

[Payco]

Think I have a plan as above.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I assume opposite of the spring in the photo

 

so try pushing it LEFT!!!!!!

 

 

no start? air out the plugs or tries new ones.  try not using the choke if you think its near flooding out

Edited January 20, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Payco]

Thanks, will try both on Saturday.

[banzai510(hainz)]

oh by the way I don't know what type of ignition  you have but if points make sure you have good sparks.  gapped and the condenser is grounded good(wires)

 

I take the center coil wire and place near the chassis and with right hand turn the key in neutral and see if the coil sparks on the chassis.  Getting a electronic ignition is the best upgrade.  remember a point coil needs a ballast resisitor. so don't get a new coil unless it matches the system your using.   Most coils don't go bad. I never had one go bad. on 30yrs

Edited January 21, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Payco]

Quote

23 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

oh by the way I don't know what type of ignition  you have but if points make sure you have good sparks.  gapped and the condenser is grounded good(wires)

 

I take the center coil wire and place near the chassis and with right hand turn the key in neutral and see if the coil sparks on the chassis.  Getting a electronic ignition is the best upgrade.  remember a point coil needs a ballast resisitor. so don't get a new coil unless it matches the system your using.   Most coils don't go bad. I never had one go bad. on 30yrs

Thanks mate. The ballast resistor is all good. I am going to do a volt test on the coil pack, change the plugs, change the leads, have a look in the distributor etc on Sat and try and open the trunk so a busy day ahead.. Will post back my findings. Learning all the time but these engines seem pretty uncomplicated which is refreshing.

 

Edited January 21, 2020 by Payco

[yenpit]

Remove the latch on the trunk (boot!) lid.  Build an extremely LONG phillips head screwdriver, go in thru the back seat, take qty three phillips head screws off to pull that latch in the pic above.  The lid will pop open once the latch is removed.  The striker on the body also has qty three screws, but I think the top two are covered when the trunk lid is closed.  This is how I get in every 510 parts car trunk if no keys!

 

TJ

Denver CO

[BrandonS]

Do you have SU carbs?  If so make sure the piston in them goes up and down freely.  They get gunked up over time and don't rise/fall freely.

Edited January 29, 2020 by BrandonS

[Payco]

Thanks guys. Boot (trunk) is now open and fixed. Car is now running. Appreciate all your help on these two issues.

 

Martin

[banzai510(hainz)]

what made it run?????what was the fix?

 

[Payco]

Ok, so she still wont fire. Fuel going to all the right places, Carb floats all good etc etc. I am now questioning my firing order. My dist cap is not aligned the same as all the firing order diagrams etc so I am questioning my order. Below are my cap positions (ignore the lead set up). Can someone number 1/3/2/4 as they see it so I can plug my leads they way you see it. Thanks.

 

Martin

[banzai510(hainz)]

what was running before?

you replace one wire at a time right ??????????????

 

if not put the motor to TDC on crank  Zero and then see where the rotor is pointing. the fire order is Counterclockwise. 1 3 4 2.

one can open the oil cap and see if that lobe is near the 10oclock position then your close to zero look at thwe crank pulley timing marks.

 

If you think its right pull the center coil wire and place near chassis and try starting again and see if the coil is firing.  and all wires are hooked up to the coil and ballast resisitor.

 

this is a simple fix.

 

nice plug wires you have there

 

Edited February 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Payco]

Thanks but out of interest what would you name as the number one lead in my photo ?

 

[datzenmike]

 

 L16

 

First, the firing order is 1,3,4,2 with the rotor turning counterclockwise.

 

Set to TDC on the compression stroke on number one cylinder. The front one.

 

Take the cap off and look at the rotor where it's pointing. The nearest plug on the cap above it is number ONE. If the wire is going to a different plug, move it to the number one plug. Now move all the other wires. The next plug wire counter clockwise from your number one is 3 then 4 then 2. 

 

 

 

From the factory the rotor may point to about 4 o'clock, but if the drive spindle was taken out and put in 90, 180, or 270 degrees out it will still run if the wires are moved around on the cap to these new positions. Chances are there are also in between points where the rotor and the wires on the cap will align and work also.   It's not really important where the rotor points, the engine doesn't care as long as the spark gets to the right plugs.

 

L18

L20B

 

 

[Payco]

thankyou, off home to work with the torch.

[banzai510(hainz)]

if you put the crank pull to Zero youll know where the rotor points at and that will be Number one.

 

You never answered if you changed the wire one at a time?

 

as the photos of the dist what mike shows might be correct but over time people swap thing and even put the dist pedestal 180 but should be pointing in the correct direction but to make is simple put the crank at zero and the dist will lock in down and youll assign that as #1 position.

 

Edited February 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[Payco]

Guys. car is now running fine, thanks for all your help. Number of things wrong ie distributer mounted the wrong way around, crank reset /PDC, carbs not oiled etc etc. Next question is my heating system is not plumbed in and I would like to get this done. I can see the heater inlet but can someone tell me how and what the process is for reinstating the system ie routing, hoses need etc. Couple of photos below.

Edited February 9, 2020 by Payco

[datzenmike]

That's great!

 

Possibly the heater core is leaking? Owners tend to by pass it by connecting the two hoses together and never get around to fixing them. This is OK in cooler weather but in hot weather the hoses should be plugged so no coolant flows.

 

There may be more than one style of heater used on the 510.

 

The inlet and outlets of the heater core protrude into the engine bay from the cabin. Water flows out of the head at the rear right side, as seen from the driver's seat, and the hose hose passes behind the head (slightly to the left side) and connect to the brass pipe protruding from the heater through the cabin wall into the heater on/off valve. From there into the core and out the right side of the heater into the engine bay where a hose carries the water down and across the right side of the engine to the lower radiator hose back into the water pump.

 

Here's a handy fix it for the valve but more important it has pictures. Maybe there is a leaking hose inside? That would be an easy fix..... http://www.510coop.com/heater/

 

 

 

Nissan used pre formed hoses with 90⁰ bends to get behind the head. Hard to replace them. Can't see if the hoses from the engine are joined or not.

[banzai510(hainz)]

the hose from the water inlet has a port under the fuel pump. Got to see if you have this /or is it plugged. this would go to the firewall heater pipe the other is from the head to s long s shaped hoe to the other pipe from fire wall.

[yenpit]

If you need heater core parts, yes, there are at least 3 variants for the heater core unit on the USA spec cars...........no clue about the SA or UK or JDM cars!  Many 510 parts sellers are not aware of this!  The 510 heater valve itself is basically the same 68-73 EXCEPT I think there are at least 2 variants.........the little lever arm that operates the valve.  Go to that link that datzenmike posted, go down to the heater valve section.  See the first pic that says "a new shiney valve......"?  Example you can see that the lever arm for that 620 pick up is very different than the 510.........but again, you would only be using the internal guts anyway.  Go to next pics, you can see that the guys original 510 valve has the slotted lever arm.  Problem here in States is that all of the heater valves (510 620 etc) are NLA NLS, except the expensive 240Z, so now it is considerably more expensive to rebuild the 510 valve!

 

I'm curious why your hose pipe thru the firewall is so rusty??  Our USA spec pipe/tube is brass & although they too oxidize & fall apart, yours looks like it is a thicker steel pipe/tube.........??  Wonder if the heater valve is different than the USA spec cars??

[Duncan]

The Coupe uses a heater that was never used in the US.  The Aussie 510 sedans used the same ones that are used here, but for some reason the Aussie wagons got the same heater as the JDM Coupes.  The heater control valves are impossible to find, and they are not the same internally or otherwise as the USA ones.  I ended up with a NAPA catalog, and bought a couple that were similar in appearance.  I was able to make one work after doing a lot of work to it.

 

It doesn't work as well as the original, but I did get it to work, somewhat okay..

 

 

 

[yenpit]

19 hours ago, Duncan said:

The Coupe uses a heater that was never used in the US.  The Aussie 510 sedans used the same ones that are used here, but for some reason the Aussie wagons got the same heater as the JDM Coupes.  The heater control valves are impossible to find, and they are not the same internally or otherwise as the USA ones.  I ended up with a NAPA catalog, and bought a couple that were similar in appearance.  I was able to make one work after doing a lot of work to it.

 

It doesn't work as well as the original, but I did get it to work, somewhat okay..

 

 

 

 

........I was afraid of that! 😣

[Duncan]

9 hours ago, yenpit said:

 

........I was afraid of that! 😣

 

Yeah, the heater looks cool, but REALLY hard to find any parts for. 

 

Luckily for me, it's a fair weather car only, and the weather here is usually pretty good..