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Heads for A14 block


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I have the California emissions head and want to know what heads I can bolt on that would be better or is this one fine ? Also I have vacuum hoses that go to the egr valve and want to know if I can just remove and cap them off. 

any help is appropriated 

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Disconnecting the hose(s) will de-activate the EGR valve. You can plug the hose barb on the carburetor but not really a concern as this is not connected to intake vacuum and is not a vacuum leak. You can also remove the belt on the air pump. The air enters the head near the thermostat and is piped internally to the exhaust ports to combine with and provide oxygen to ignite hot unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust. If you remove pollution devices save them, just in case.  


Take the valve cover off and see what casting you have. Probably this H72. I can't find a specific 'California emissions head'. I think they were all the same and only the emissions controls changed added. 



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What gearbox is in the car now? What's in the car should be a 63 series box, which uses a larger driveshaft yoke than the 60 series gearbox. The 60 series uses the same yoke has the 56 series driveshaft.


As for the crossmember they are not to different and it's easy enough to fabricate an adapter out of plate steel (can be done with a hacksaw and drill) I did this in the 1200 I race.


If you are just looking for a 5 speed one of the guys on Datsun1200.com has 63 series 5 speed. He is in Texas so not to far away. I have one as well but I'm not sure I wish to part with it and I'm in Vegas so shipping may be pricey.


Any A-series cylinder head will bolt to any A series engine. What you have to be mindful of is bolting a late head on an early block. The A14 is considered a late block, the head you have should be a late head as well but double check Datsun1200.com under head compatibility.

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My apologies my fiends, also it stated fine and I drove to work left the lights on and now that the battery is charged it starts but dies as soon as I take my foot of the gas any help is appreciated, 

ps I am currently stranded at work..

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4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

For a '75 B-210 that should be a F4W60 transmission. A later FS5W60A from an '80 and up 210 will bolt up but I don't know the lengths.



As far as I'm aware ALL A series RWD manual transmissions are the same length and use the same driveshaft, with the only variation to watch for is the need for an auto driveshaft on the dogleg 63a (interchangeable with 510 sedan driveshaft for 75-78 maybe 210 also). 

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On 1/22/2020 at 7:54 PM, datzenmike said:

Perfect! Do you know the length of the manual boxes? The 63A will be 26/5" same as the 510's automatic.


Off the top of my head I want to say they are all the stumpy length 26.5 but I can't verify that exactly.


If no one chimes in by tomorrow I'll wander out to the parts shed and measure a couple, just don't feel like doing it tonight.


However, I do know by personal experience that pretty much any 1200, B210, 210 transmission is interchangeable as long as you match your driveshaft spline and your diff input. I.e., a 210 FS5W60A will bolt into a 1200 no problem and you use the 1200 driveshaft to match the H145 diff (setup I had on my 1200 in the late 90s). From memory, there are a couple small issues like a dust shield on the 210 driveshaft that might need to be removed depending on what you mix and match. 


Edit: Didn't get home until very late and kind of forgot about this so no measurement.

Edited by Dguy210
I suck
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Yes I was using the Delta 278 in an A15; from memory it's .420 valve lift and 278 duration. You'll need dual valve springs but those are still available from Isky for around $125 or so.


Out of curiosity what valves are you using to get 40/33; if the valve seats need to be replaced then you might as well put larger valves in but if the seats are fine I'd be inclined to simply replace the 37/30 valves with the tapered stem type you can get from SI valves.

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I found 38/32 Nissan valves on eBay that I think I'm going to use if not just get the valves that you suggested. 40mm intake valves that I was thinking of using were from a VW beetle. Would have to machine the length down to make them work. Read on the Datsun1200 wiki that someone put in 40/33 valves in from tomei I believe. But found info(flow charts) on the 38/32 set up. Seems like a good set up. Just have to decide how much money I want to through at it before a ca18det or sr20 swap is more economical.

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If you think you're going to eventually do a motor swap here is what I would do; send the cam out to Delta to be reground, clean up the ports, install the aforementioned SI valves and fit a weber 32/36 DGV carb or whatever carb you find cheap. All of that should add 15-20hp which will make the car feel like a rocket..............at least for an hour or so.


20hp may not seem like much but when I went from the 80whp A12 to the 99whp A15 the trap speed on the car went from 98 mph to 111 mph.


I keep thinking I want to do a motor swap in my car, especially now that I have a single seat race car again but I've really grown fond of the rev happy A-series. The biggest issue with motor swap is the weIght; especially the turbo motors as an SR20DET is only about 20lbs lighter than a V8. 


The the joy of these cas is there's no wrong answer; keep the A14, fit an SR20 or V8 or RB25 it's all good.

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If you're interested in a H89 head, I have one for sale. The H72 head isn't terrible though. The A series in my opinion becomes less economical than an SR20DET pretty much as soon as you put a hotter cam in it. My decently built SR20DET Datsun 1200 (285 rwhp) gets 35 mpg highway, whereas my  81 B310 wagon with A15 5 speed with GX cam, ported polished SI valved H72 head, 32/36 carb tuned perfectly only gets 29 mpg highway and much less smiles per gallon than the SR20.

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