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Scrapson

Will not idle without choke.

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I’ve been having problems with the idle I got the carb tuned up it’s a Weber 32/36 with the idle cut off solenoid and electric choke. What happens is when I drive it around for like 3-4 minutes when the choke kicks off entirely it just will not idle worth shit. I have replaced the intake gasket 2 times now it keeps on leaking through there we can hear it when spraying break clean or starting fluid it revvs up. I’ve done the proper things for the break in of the intake/exhuast gasket 2 times now I don’t know what the hell is going on. I’m just waiting at this point for it go out entirely. The last time it was the intake gasket but this time I don’t know why it would’ve gone bad there hasn’t been a backfire or anything that might cause it to blow the gasket. Is there a toque spec or something it needs to be at? 

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The over richness with the choke on, is masking a lean condition.

 

The bolts coming loose on the adapter are the prime cause of air leaks. Check them, you should be using some form of threadlocker on them as they rattle loose.

 

Make sure the idle cut is working. Has it got power? In the '79 it should only have power while the engine is running. Try jumpering 12v directly from the battery and see if that helps.

 

Set the correct idle mix via Weber's suggestions.

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So this post is now irrelevant I just had some catastrophic engine failure happen so I’m on the marking for a new motor. The fail pro gasket failed to keep fluids in the motor. The intake gasket was bad and lead to coolant escaping aswell as it was lean or too rich for it and the head gasket is also kaplooey. Any good motor swap ideas?

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2 hours ago, Scrapson said:

So this post is now irrelevant I just had some catastrophic engine failure happen so I’m on the marking for a new motor. The fail pro gasket failed to keep fluids in the motor. The intake gasket was bad and lead to coolant escaping aswell as it was lean or too rich for it and the head gasket is also kaplooey. Any good motor swap ideas?


How bout another l motor?

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9 hours ago, Scrapson said:

So this post is now irrelevant I just had some catastrophic engine failure happen so I’m on the marking for a new motor. The fail pro gasket failed to keep fluids in the motor. The intake gasket was bad and lead to coolant escaping aswell as it was lean or too rich for it and the head gasket is also kaplooey. Any good motor swap ideas?

 

Replace the gasket or gaskets, this is not catastrophic failure. Fixing loose weber adapter plate is way cheaper and easier than replacing the engine.  Rich/lean won't cause gasket failure. Don't give up on such a simple engine for something more complex.

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what is s fail pro gasket fail?

 

most time the weber adapter plate cracks if you get no idle if one overtightens it.  plus hook power to the cutoff selinoid.

one can hear the selinoid ck if one puts 12volts to it.  Get a wire like Mike said

 

The intake/exhaust gasket should not fail if you tighten it up correctly.

 

 

torq?? snug????????  how about get a manual

 

 

For SALE!!!!!!!!!

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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The intake gasket only had a vacuum leak the head gasket is leaking coolant out the side of the block. 

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What side? Driver's? could be the thermostat housing.

 

Did you replace the head gasket recently? Check the torque on the bolts. Should be 60 ft lbs.

 

Did you over heat the engine?

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Any pile of crap head gasket will work. It's all in the prep, cleaning and installation/assembly. Clean, clean, clean. When in doubt, use copper spray. (I should say, novices use copper spray, but what the hell, it works.)

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4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

remember he said he drove around the block w/o water in there

 

For SALE!!!!!!!!!

 

Love the 'fail-pro' reference.

Been using them for years, and never had issues.

 

I have seen people prep a block or head, and thought they had it clean, but when I looked at it I saw compacted head gasket stuck to the surface, that they managed to make shinny with their pathetic scraping.

 

And who knows how screwed the head is by a short stint without coolant.

Edited by G-Duax

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It was torqued to 60 ft lb on the head in the correct pattern from my "how to rebuild your nissan datsun motor" I assume it probably went bad from running it without coolant, I didn't let it overheat it when I drove it though I havent been more than 5 miles from my house because well I don't trust it enough for more. It is leaking from the driver side we checked everywhere but so far it appears the head gasket or the intake/exhuast because it has the coolant passage through the intake for cooling the intake i presume or heating up the carb when it's cold outside.

It's not for sale yet...

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18 hours ago, Scrapson said:

So this post is now irrelevant I just had some catastrophic engine failure happen so I’m on the marking for a new motor. The fail pro gasket failed to keep fluids in the motor. The intake gasket was bad and lead to coolant escaping aswell as it was lean or too rich for it and the head gasket is also kaplooey. Any good motor swap ideas?

The gasket didn't fail to do anything.Not trying to be mean here but the workmanship is most likely to blame.Fel-pro gaskets are good quality for the most part.Also,no coolant means your temp sensor is not sensing anything,it's not surrounded by coolant.

Edited by john510

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I’ll give the intake a full torque just to see because that would make my day so much brighter which means its just me being retarded which isn’t Unusual. I do want to get the motor rebuilt and bored over a little since the motor from what it looks like probably has a little over 200,000 on it

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18 hours ago, Scrapson said:

It was torqued to 60 ft lb on the head in the correct pattern from my "how to rebuild your nissan datsun motor" I assume it probably went bad from running it without coolant, I didn't let it overheat it when I drove it though I havent been more than 5 miles from my house because well I don't trust it enough for more. It is leaking from the driver side we checked everywhere but so far it appears the head gasket or the intake/exhuast because it has the coolant passage through the intake for cooling the intake i presume or heating up the carb when it's cold outside.

It's not for sale yet...

 

The coolant flow only warms the cold manifold so that the fuel droplets evaporate sooner and more efficiently. In extremely hot weather the coolant removes excess heat radiated onto the undersides of the intake from the hot exhaust that's just inches away. By warming and cooling the intake air when needed the extremes of temperature are reduced and the engine runs better.

 

200K is ok if the engine was maintained properly. Running around without water is a sure fire way to warp the head needlessly. 

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just tighten the intake manifold esp the lower bolts and while it warms up get a mirrow and look on the intake side for leaks from the manifold.

however if yu have bolt going in the head that's aluminum be carefull not too strip out!!!!

I know the later L20 hd a lot of emmsions and a different exhaust manifold and hard to get at the bolt angle in there using sockets ect… ON my L16 iZ can get a box end wrench and flip it(or a self rachet box end) over and get them nice and tight.

 

as for running it with no water . 5 mins is not big deal but 5 miles I might get worried a little more. The temp sender might not read this as it going to read the air temp ,shit maybe it works better I don't know as th hea would get hot. but it made to measure water temp.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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I retorqued the head bolts they were all at 60ft lbs and the lower bolts were fine they weren’t loose. I didn’t drive it more than around the block without coolant because well no coolant is bad. 

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Yep. No coolant. Very bad.

 

My around the block may vary from your around the block, but I know a motor wouldn't survive once around the block without coolant if I was driving.

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Lol no I took it extremely easy I mean like idled around the block I wasn’t trying to do anything stupid with a new head gasket put in. I should mention when I bought it the temp gauge didn’t work and I drove it down the I5 and I later found out a week later the radiator is clogged to hell so it might’ve over heated really bad going 60 on the freeway. 

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