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jagman

Rebuild begins!

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I looked at the machinists work sheet and he decked the head and the block but does not specify the amount removed from either.  Could this be a problem?

 

No this is not a proplem

 

if it ran then for a minute either you didn't prime the oil pump and it seized up or makebe this is just a fuel issue. por some gas down the carb and see if it fires off  if not then maybe its a spark issue.

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Hainz, I can't read a clock either, the lobes are art the 7 and 9 o:clock position (valves fully closed) and I did prime the pump. Should the intake plug wires be on the inside row of the cap or the outside?  Where can I look for your video?

Edited by jagman
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This is a Z block, correct?

 

Does the 10 and 2 apply to a Z head/cam?

 

Edited by wayno
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Ya, It is a z24.

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Z series the exhaust lobe is at 4 and intake at 8 (corrected)

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Hi Mike,  So my Z24 engine is ass backward since my intake side is at 7-8 and the exhaust is at 4-5.  I will take another look at the dizzy setting tommorrow and see if I need to change the plug wires from intake on the inside of the cap to the outside of the cap.  I recently had an altercation with a mikita wire brush and am waiting to regrow the skin on my left hand. As they say when you get old you can't even hold your own and no one else will!

 

https://postimg.cc/gallery/2wcw28rvg/

I hope this pic will show at least  one side of the cam.  The insert image thingy does'nt seem to work for me.

I also want to thank Hainz for the video.  That is a good looking engine -- Hainz isn't bad either for a youngster.

Edited by jagman
pics

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Yeah, you're correct. I just went out and looked at a Z cam. The exhaust IS at 4 and the intake at 8.

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Click on the box to the right of the Blue highlighted selection.  this will copy the link then go to Ratsun and paste it in your post.

 

Link-to-copy.jpg

 

 

Edited by Charlie69

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Hi Mike and Charlie69,

I am going to recheck the setting of the distributor and the plug wires since that is the only thing left to futs with. I appreciate the help with the photo posting too.

 

Today I got back to the truck and rechecked the dizzy and wires. Wires are in the proper order on the cap. I hit the starter and got a backfire so I think that's where the problem is.  When the distributor is in the firing position what position should the vane (metal) and the 4 tits on the dizzy shaft be?

Edited by jagman
putz
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On 3/18/2020 at 3:38 AM, jagman said:

  When the distributor is in the firing position what position should the vane (metal) and the 4 tits on the dizzy shaft be?

 

I think they all line up for every firing of the coil. What's important is, where is the rotor pointing? what wire on the distributor cap above it is it pointing to?

 

If the engine is set very near TDC on the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke where both valves are closed, then the rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug wire. The others, as wayno said, are 3, 4, 2 in a counterclockwise direction.

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OK.  I am stumped! At TDC  I have rechecked the setting of the distributor shaft. It is correct per Mike"s Photo.  I rechecked the rotor and it points to Intake 1. All the plug wires are properly arranged around the cap.  I checked spark and I am getting a yellow arc  so I have fire but I have always had a bluish spark on other vehicles.  Would it be a good thing to replace the original coils with a couple of 40,000 volt racing coils and check again?  The only thing I can think of!

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Unlikely it's a coil but check the second coil for spark. The chances of two bum coils is more than all the atoms in the universe. Is it different?

 

How wide a gap can you get the spark to jump? I would say 3/4" or more is plenty.

 

Obviously the coil works, does it fire up?

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No she won't fire up.  I checked the spark with a plug so I don't know how far the spark will jump. I will find out. Remember that I found the second coil was not getting any voltage and wired between them to get voltage to the second coil.  I will check the spark from both coils. Thanks!

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Try a jumper directly from the battery for the second coil. Or find out why there is no power to it. The first fuse from the left side?

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Mike, I checked the fuses and all are OK.  The coil test [ coil #1 nada , coil #2 short and yellow spark]  failed.  I pulled 2 msd coils from the old race parts bin and have installed them. Now I have a 1/2" strong spark from each.  I tried to start her up and still nothing.  I gave her a squirt of ether and still no joy!  It has to be something small and smart because I am feeling soooo stupid.  KSS principal

Keep 

Steve 

Stupid

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I didn't want you to run out an buy coils, but if you have them already that was the smart move to check them. You still need to find out why no power to that one coil and get it on it's own supply rather that dividing it between two. 

 

Is the distributor tightened down? the mounting bolts? Is the timing adjustment screw also tight?

 

If you have a volt meter try measuring the resistance on those two coils. Should be 0.75 to 1.0 ohms. I'm curious what they are.

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On 3/26/2020 at 1:58 PM, jagman said:

OK.  I am stumped! At TDC  I have rechecked the setting of the distributor shaft. It is correct per Mike"s Photo.  I rechecked the rotor and it points to Intake 1. All the plug wires are properly arranged around the cap.  I checked spark and I am getting a yellow arc  so I have fire but I have always had a bluish spark on other vehicles.  Would it be a good thing to replace the original coils with a couple of 40,000 volt racing coils and check again?  The only thing I can think of!

 

Yes there are 2 TDCs so make sure the one you have has both #1 cylinder valves closed with rocker arms NOT on valve lobes.

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I am at the TDC with both valves closed on #1 cylinder . I have to check out the problem with the wiring to the second coil and haven't got a clue as to where to start on that puzzle. But I will muzzle my way forward or backward as the case may be. 

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Get rid of your jumper.

 

Meter the + terminals of both coils they should be 12v.

 

If no one has messed with them the intake coil is Brown on the positive side and White/Blue (stripe) on the  negative. The intake coil is Black/White on the positive and Red on the negative. Now, this is for the '84 truck so....

 

Again check the first fuse on the far left of the fuse box, this is the power source for Black/White wire on the exhaust side coil.

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Mike, I guess I'm lucky. No one has messed with the wiring . I had a chance to check voltage on both positive wires by using the block as ground.  I found that the ground wires to the coils show an intermitant connection so I will drop a ground wire to each coil from the block as soon as I have time. Fuses are OK.  

I have been told that since I repair lawn mowers I run an essential business (repair)  wot a crock. but we are flooded with work as of last week and it"s interfering with getting the little beastie on the road.  

Thanks Mike  Just out of curiosity do you resemble the pic in "You're goddamn right or the one above user admin?

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