mshort07 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 9 hours ago, docbainey said: Use a weber 32/36, the carb off the j13 will be to small and will need re-jetted. Where did you end up finding a 5th gear steel syncro ring? $$$? Typically you should replace the ring, blocks and bands as a unit as all of those parts are the 'synchronizer'. Nice Roadster I know a guy 😀. A friend in the next town over had a few lightly used ones for me. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 5 hours ago, iceman510 said: I have numerous Weber 32/36 carbs if you are interested. Some of them probably jetted for L20B already. How much for a carb? 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 A new question for you all today. The spring exhaust flap in the exhaust manifold. How does it work? My guess is that at low rpms the flap is in the position seen in the photo above directing hot exhaust gasses up towards the heating plate sandwiched between the exhaust and intake manifold. When the rpms go up, the exhaust gasses increase in pressure pushing the flap open allowing the gasses to flow more freely through the rest of the exhaust system. When the rpms come back down, the spring and lack of exhaust gas pressure allows the flap to close directing more heat to the heating plate. ??? Am I right? so is the flap needed? I don’t plan on doing much cold weather driving. Heard something along the lines was what the heating plate was for. The flap looks very restrictive. Can I just do away with it or position the flap so it is always open (least amount of restriction of gasses flowing through the exhaust system and out? thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Your kinda right. The flap is moved by the temperature of the 'spring' on the manifold. As the spring heats up, it pivots the deflector plate so the exhaust gases flow more freely. Its an aid to warm the engine up faster. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Works somewhat like the choke coil. That strip tightens up when cold holding the flap open so exhaust can warm up that plate with the ridges under the carburetor so fuel droplets will vaporize. Ten or fifteen seconds is all it takes and the engine runs smoother and burns more of the fuel. Fuel in droplets won't burn it has to be vaporized. Don't forget this is a cold engine. As the exhaust heats up that metal coil it slowly unwinds and closes that flap and the exhaust by passes it. The problem is it it's not maintained the coil can rust or erode away from the heat and it doesn't work. Worse the shaft can rust and seize in the open position and not work when you need it or worse in the closed position baking the incoming air on hot days when not needed. It can seize in any position in between and why I'm not a fan. Yours looks good. As long as it's loose and free to move I'd just leave it. Check it when it's cold every now and then 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: Works somewhat like the choke coil. That strip tightens up when cold holding the flap open so exhaust can warm up that plate with the ridges under the carburetor so fuel droplets will vaporize. Ten or fifteen seconds is all it takes and the engine runs smoother and burns more of the fuel. Fuel in droplets won't burn it has to be vaporized. Don't forget this is a cold engine. As the exhaust heats up that metal coil it slowly unwinds and closes that flap and the exhaust by passes it. The problem is it it's not maintained the coil can rust or erode away from the heat and it doesn't work. Worse the shaft can rust and seize in the open position and not work when you need it or worse in the closed position baking the incoming air on hot days when not needed. It can seize in any position in between and why I'm not a fan. Yours looks good. As long as it's loose and free to move I'd just leave it. Check it when it's cold every now and then yes. It’s in good working order. Moves freely. So it’s a bi-metallic spring. Makes sense. When cold, it’s short and closes the trap pushing air to the heat sink. When hot the spring metal expands allowing the gasses to easily open it. When the engine is off again, the metal spring will cool and shrink closing it back off again for the next start. Sounds good. Now is there much harm in disabling it? I’m not planning on doing a lot of cold driving. Or just leave it alone. It’s still working after 40 years. It will keep working. What do you think. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 I would get rid of it and find a exhaust manifold from a L16 and y pipe that clears your torsion bar. But it cheaper to keep what you have if your exhaust is still good Just a pain to work with. it just a flap to heat the intake in winter so the carb don’t freeze.early cars had a hot water line to the intake and head had holes for the water to go into 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted May 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 (edited) Time to buy more parts and wanted to get some input first. Remember I’m fitting this L20B in my ‘68 520. I know there will be cutting and welding but was trying to stay away from cutting the firewall. So I need to get a water pump and a radiator. What do I buy? Do I go stock, ‘78 620 water pump with clutch fan (that was original to the engine). I don’t see any original style radiators on eBay, only aluminum ones. Would that combo be too deep and not fit. I heard, and it looks like it’s going to be tight. Also, the ‘68 520 face has four head lights with a space of 23 inches between where the radiator needs to go. What about an L16 water pump with a fixed fan? Will that save space? Any different options on the radiator? I’m looking forward to reading anybody’s thoughts. Thanks Edited May 11, 2020 by mshort07 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted May 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Next question. According to this book. the L20B has these cast bracket mounted to the bottom back end of the block to bolt to the bell housing of the transmission. My engine didn’t have it when I bought it. I guess the pervious owner got rid of them. Do I need them? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 Called gussets. I would rather have them than not but I drove my truck for years without them and didn't know. They come in lighter weight aluminum too 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Does anyone know where I can get a pair of gussets? 1 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted May 14, 2020 Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 8 hours ago, mshort07 said: Does anyone know where I can get a pair of gussets? I've ran several L engines without them. Even a mild LZ23. No issues at all with not running. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted May 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Getting there. Just waiting on a few more parts and it will be all back together. Spent too many hours cleaning and polishing the valve cover today. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted July 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 It’s running. Still need to add a fan and burp out the air in the cooling system. Had an issue with oil pressure in the beginning but after searching the forum noticed it was suggested to prime the oil pump with oil prior to installation. After I did that the oil pressure came right up. My rebuild manual didn’t mention that procedure. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 When in the vehicle, the engine is tilted up at the front, any trapped air automatically burps as soon as the thermostat opens. 1 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 On 1/2/2020 at 4:38 PM, datzenmike said: the FS5W63A from a first gen S10 (200sx) I had a 1st gen 200SX and I loved the shift pattern (#4 in the pic) but had to be careful letting anyone else drive the car. This pattern feels natural to me, as you're most often in 1st (idling), 3rd (city traffic) or 5th (highway) so your arm is in a relaxed position. I'd prefer to have one in my current build. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted August 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 Well I’m looking for some more advice from you guys. I have a nagging oil leak. Thought it was the oil pan seal. Replaced it, still leaked. I pulled the trans and flywheel and noticed oil on the surface of the rear main cap. The rear main seal was installed on an angle. So I replaced it, reassembled and it still had the oil leak. So back off with the trans. The oil wasn’t coming from the rear main seal. It looked like the leak was coming from the rear main cap seals. I pulled the pan and the cap and there was no sealant used on the mating surface of the parting line of the block. My engine builder only used sealant on the side seals. Now time for the advice - what type of rear main cap side seals do you guys use? My 1st seal kit had seals like this. the new felpro gasket set has seals like this which are just like the ones in the Datsun repair manual. they are smooth seals with metal shims “nails” that side in between the cap and the seal. any suggestions of preferred ones to use? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 22, 2020 Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 19 minutes ago, mshort07 said: they are smooth seals with metal shims “nails” that side in between the cap and the seal. any suggestions of preferred ones to use? Thanks I've used those felpro style a few times and they work just fine. Follow the FSM direction on install procedure and where to use the RTV. Don't go crazy with RTV on the rear cap though, it can and will squish under the cap changing the bearing clearance. I had this happen to me on a engine I was refreshing. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted August 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 Darker, I have one question about the nail install. The book says to install the nails with the bevel pointing towards the cap. I interpret the book like this But it think it makes more sense with the bevel facing the other way. Thoughts? Also, I assume the lip flaps of the seal faces towards the cap and the nail slides in between the lips? Like below? rectangle on the left represents the nail. Shape on the right is the cost section of the seal. The rear main cap would be on the left. The engine block would be on the right. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 22, 2020 Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 I buy the Nissan ones and don't worry about it as its a 1 pc unit always prime the pump otherwise your were running on no oil. It csnt suck up the oil as the gear just have air in it and can create enough vacuum 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 23, 2020 Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 The purpose of the beveled edge is to let it slide in past the rubber. Bevel toward the rubber and bevel side pointing towards the top of the motor. I think you've done it right. If you've done it once and it's not working, I would do what Hainz suggested and just get the OEM version from Nissan. It's going to cost you a bit more, but it will be absolutely correct. If it still leaks after that, then you know it's maybe not the seal and something else. Make sure you've got the block and cap super clean when applying the RTV. Spray it down with a de-greaser. I like brakleen (red). It's absolutely nasty stuff, bit it cleans like a mofo. Hope that helps. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted August 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2020 So after searching around the forums out there I found some needed info related to this 2 piece felpro seal set as well as I interpreted the book incorrectly. the metal shim gets installed so the point of the shim points towards the cap. I originally thought surface of bevel pointed towards the cap but that was backwards. as for the orientation for how the rubber seal gets installed, I found a post or two that described inserting the seal so the lips point towards the block as seen above. Then the metal shim gets installed between the cap and the seal. And then there’s the additional details found in Monroe’s Datsun engine rebuild book. 1 Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted November 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 Finally am ready to move onto the next step of this project. Pulled the J13 and trans out this weekend. Next I have to plan how the L20B and five speed trans is going to fit in there. I know there’s going to be some mods. I do have a question about the old trans fitted to the J13 engine. It’s a 1968 Datsun 520, 4 speed transmission. What’s the name of that transmission? Does anyone sell gasket kits and seals for this transmission? Not sure why, but I want to clean this up even though I don’t plan on using it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 F4W63. Other than the different engine bolt patterns, same transmission as the 521 and the 510. The J13 gear ratios are the same as the 521 and the 510 wagon. The 510 sedan's are closer ratio Quote Link to comment
mshort07 Posted November 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 Thanks datzenmike. I’m assuming since it’s basically the same as a trans in a 510, the seals gaskets are still able to be found? Quote Link to comment
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