MaddieCycle Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 Hello. The time has come to tackle a front end refresh on my '86 4x4 KC. All 4 ball joint boots torn, pretty much every bushing in the stabilizer bar, ball joint mount, shock, and steering linkage are cracked. Also need to do passenger side outer CV boot. I'll throw in new shocks and steering damper too. Seems to me that the only hard job are the A-arm bushings and the torsion bar. Those don't look so bad and I am inclined to leave them alone, being a shadetree mechanic without a lift or press. I'll do the pitman and idler arm bushings, any reason to replace the actual pitman arm itself? Looking for advice on any other major pain points in this job, someone to argue that I should tackle the A arm bushings while doing everything else, etc.... Main issue is the truck does not fit in my garage (rear sticks out a bit). So all projects that involve the car being up on jack stands have to be 1 day jobs since I can't close the garage door at night. Looks like people are buying their bushings from Rock Auto? What about from Moog? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 I just recently did a full rebuild on my 82. Had it 30 years plan on keeping it forever so changed everything. The worst part was the lower control arm bushings. Didn't seem loose but at 240k miles figured that they should get replaced. I made my own tool and finally won but have since purchased a heavy duty ball joint seperator "large C clamp" that would probably work better. These can be borrowed from most flaps. I used all new shocks, tie rod ends, centerlink, new moog idler arm plus balljoints. Research parts for Japanese source if possible. Good luck and replace all 4 boots. This job sucks! Oh and after all of this I bought a set of Toyota straight axles! Gonna take a while so I will enjoy my fresh front end. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 The pitman arm is a single metal part with no seals or moving parts to wear out. When replacing bushings make sure the truck is sitting on it's wheels, then tighten the bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment
MaddieCycle Posted December 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 1 hour ago, bottomwatcher said: I just recently did a full rebuild on my 82. Had it 30 years plan on keeping it forever so changed everything. The worst part was the lower control arm bushings. Didn't seem loose but at 240k miles figured that they should get replaced. I made my own tool and finally won but have since purchased a heavy duty ball joint seperator "large C clamp" that would probably work better. These can be borrowed from most flaps. I used all new shocks, tie rod ends, centerlink, new moog idler arm plus balljoints. Research parts for Japanese source if possible. Good luck and replace all 4 boots. This job sucks! Oh and after all of this I bought a set of Toyota straight axles! Gonna take a while so I will enjoy my fresh front end. Nice! Do you think I could get one side done in a day if I started at 6am and didn't go to sleep until I finished? You are right, might as well do all 4 boots if I am going to take this mess apart. Quote Link to comment
720_Jeff Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 (edited) The 4x4 Pitman seems to be this one? The 4x4 pitman is a bit different from the regular single metal piece? The 4x4 pitman's seem to be readily available, where the regular truck, those seem to not be available. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k9006/applications Edited December 23, 2019 by 720_Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment
Madkaw Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 I ordered almost everything from Rock auto. Yes the front control arm bushing is a bitch and will take more time than most things . Breaking bolts loose will be a challenge also , so have your PB Blaster ready . I have an extra set of Nissan seals that go to the back of the spindles to help seal the axles if you are interested . If you remove the axles you will want to replace them. I also have a ton of extra urethane bushings for the shackles if you want - free. I did buy the higher end parts from Rock auto which was usually Beck Arnley made in Japan or Moog. Be prepared to have to fix the tension rod area where the bushings ride - might take a welder to fix. See my retirement truck thread. Torsion bars are fun too. Ill say the truck drives really nice and solid . 1 Quote Link to comment
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