rev limiter???

[720_potter]

so I spun a rod bearing a few weeks ago on my Nissan z24 and was wondering after rebuilding this time if I could put a rev limiter on it. only down fal is i have no cue on how to do so ,since it has no wiring harness. if anyone has a clue or has done please fill me in on how to that be great. 

 

 

much appreciation.

[MikeRL411]

I think that  the only effective rev limiter is your rjght foot.

[720_potter]

1 hour ago, MikeRL411 said:

I think that  the only effective rev limiter is your rjght foot.

I thought about that too 😄 I was just wondering if anyone has done it or not

[Crashtd420]

13 hours ago, 720_potter said:

so I spun a rod bearing a few weeks ago on my Nissan z24 and was wondering after rebuilding this time if I could put a rev limiter on it. only down fal is i have no cue on how to do so ,since it has no wiring harness. if anyone has a clue or has done please fill me in on how to that be great. 

 

 

much appreciation.

 

?????

What has no wiring harness?

 

I believe you can make a simple setup... looks like you can just interrupt the coil signal.... but you need either a shift light to trigger it or you could just buy a rev limiter.... looks cheap and easy....

 

[datzenmike]

The Z24's red line is 6,500, far and away above it usable range. To get there you'd have to put a brick on the gas.

 

The 'red line' is the point below which an engine can rev continuously without fear of rods stretching and bolts breaking. This assumes you have an engine in good tune and lots of oil and water in it. By 'good tune' I mean correct timing of 3⁰. Spun rod bearings are almost always too much wear and/or, or too little oil.

 

Save your money. Buy a tach. Know your limit: stay within it.

[720_potter]

17 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

?????

What has no wiring harness?

 

I believe you can make a simple setup... looks like you can just interrupt the coil signal.... but you need either a shift light to trigger it or you could just buy a rev limiter.... looks cheap and easy....

 

we thought that too but its got two coils from the eco thing they did where it burns the exhaust fumes on the way out so it has 8 spark plug instead of the regular 4, that was our only problem running into

[720_potter]

9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The Z24's red line is 6,500, far and away above it usable range. To get there you'd have to put a brick on the gas.

 

The 'red line' is the point below which an engine can rev continuously without fear of rods stretching and bolts breaking. This assumes you have an engine in good tune and lots of oil and water in it. By 'good tune' I mean correct timing of 3⁰. Spun rod bearings are almost always too much wear and/or, or too little oil.

 

Save your money. Buy a tach. Know your limit: stay within it.

understandable, also another question from you since I see you all around the page. what brand bearings would be best for the z24 build since ive heard allot about different brands being worse than others.

[G-Duax]

Anything but king.....

[Lozer]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F301940309919

 

Ive used this model on a couple builds 

[datzenmike]

Is Clevite still a brand name? I don't think it matters that much as long as you check your clearances after the crank is ground or the crank is replaced.. 

[G-Duax]

King really are crap bearings.

Bought a freshly built Supra engine a few years ago due to the price was lower than half the new components cost (forged pistons, Crower rods, and new crank) that was put together with king crap.

The bearing surfaces had ripples in them, just like a Ruffles potato chip, and defects on the back side that caused high spots on the bearing surfaces.

That engine wouldn't have survived one hard run.

[Ranman72]

look for japanese made bearings 

get a tach with a shift light set it at the max rev you want 

then if you over rev its not from lack of knowing RPM