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Just purchased a 1966 Datsun 520


iota

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I tried turning it and that doesn't change the clearance but a few millimeters - I need a good inch to make it fit. I'm wondering if I need DFEV not DGEV carb, but I did see someone on Instagram once with the same DGEV carb so I dunno how they fit it - maybe pierce just sent me the incorrect manifold. 

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The adapter?

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

The Weber is wider than the original carb and isn't it off set to one side over the manifold? Make sure the off set is away from the valve cover.

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Just now, Charlie69 said:

You should have ordered the manual choke DGV.

 

 

Yeah, I am using what Pierce Manafolds told me was the perfect fit per redline.

 

it looks like I could probably do like some MGB guys do with a backwards DGEV and run the throttle cable between the carb and valve cover and have it come in at a 90° angle. But my throttle cable is way to short - I have the "bar" type linkage on my old carb. Guess I could source or make a longer cable with a bend or something 

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That does not look like the right/proper adapter to me as I successfully put a manual choke Weber on mine but my adapter was offset away from the valve cover, but in the end it didn't work for me because I could not make a stock air filter housing work that way so I found a high rise adapter and went with that, it is a 1.75" rise(1 3/4").

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Edited by wayno
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Actually I kinda doubt a 1-3/4" rise would do it - even with the current adaptor (which is about 3/4" tall or so), it isn't even close to fitting - i would need a couple more inches of height. It's gotta be the wrong carb, so I either need the "F" version which is reversed, or I need to make a new throttle linkage (which im going to try today)

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14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The adapter?

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

The Weber is wider than the original carb and isn't it off set to one side over the manifold? Make sure the off set is away from the valve cover.

 

This is the adapter I used when I put a Weber on my truck engine before I used the high rise adapter, this adapter moves the carb away from the valve cover.

 

Edited by wayno
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21 minutes ago, wayno said:

 

This is the adapter I used when I put a Weber on my truck engine before I used the high rise adapter, this adapter moves the carb away from the valve cover.

 

Which Weber did you put on? They sent me 32/36 DGEV 

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I ended up keeping the (wrong?) carb they sent me and mounting it "backwards" so the throttle assembly is in the front, then picked up a "universal" accelerator cable kit that seems like it will work, just need to finish the install.

 

I wanted to see it run with the new carburetor so I tried to start it and no fuel coming from the fuel pump - using the NOS OEM mechanical pump I got from a guy in Canada (which worked for a test drive before I started the conversion to Weber). Wouldn't even draw fuel out of a can sitting just below the pump. I tried replacing the rubber internals with the ones from my eBay Thailand mechanical pump (which look identical, just aren't 50 years old), but no luck. I am getting so sick of screwing around with fuel pumps on this damned thing.

 

Ended up just taking an electric pump and temporarily hooking it up just past the tank pickup tube in the rear, the truck started right up first crank and idled great even with the electric choke.

 

Hoping to get some time to put the mechanical pump block-off plate back on (and stick the mechanical pumps in storage), and then permanently mount the electric pump in the rear, finish up the accelerator cable, and get this truck back on the road (for the 100th time, it seems)

Edited by iota
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Just now, XXL said:

 

Did the vendor ever respond? 

Yes, she wrote back with the helpful reply "you needed a manual choke" and nothing else. I said I needed a manual choke in my very first email but she had replied at that time that the Redline rep recommended the electric one. 
 

oh well - I kinda like the electric choke since this is my wife's truck anyway (not that she can't handle the choke but it's one less thing to have to worry about). And I thought I wouldn't like having it mounted backwards but man has it made working on the throttle setup easier (plus will make adjusting the screws easier). So it's all good, just gotta finish the accelerator cable and mount the electric pump in rear

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1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said:

Just be careful with the electric pump psi, make sure it outputs around 3 psi.   

Yep it's good, I've used this same model pump with success (until it burns up from being mounted far away from the tank, so I'm moving to the rear)

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  • 1 month later...

Good news boys, we are back on the road after ~3 months of being out of commission.

 

- Went back to the Datsun NOS mechanical fuel pump (replaced the diaphragms and cleaned check valves seemed to have fixed it, for now)

 

- Got the Weber DGEV 32/36 installed "backward" by reversing the adapter plate and swapping the side that the fuel inlet was on

 

- Got an accelerator cable from eBay from Thailand which was made for RHD trucks so it's plenty long

 

- Found a Weber throttle plate (made for Mazda B2000) which fit the way I needed it to

 

- Bent the s*$# out of the throttle cable bracket to make it work the way I needed it to. It looks terrible but works for now

 

And it's running again! I still need to figure out why it bogs down for a moment when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3, will start with checking timing & vacuum advance (it did this with the old carb as well).

 

Thanks everyone for all the help along the way!

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