Jump to content
iota

Just purchased a 1966 Datsun 520

Recommended Posts

I believe the thread size in the side of the engine block for the oil pressure sender is 1/4' British standard pipe thread.  I believe the brake pressur switch is the same thread size.

 

I would do as Wayno did and install a mechanical switch for your brake lights.  The brake lights work faster off a mechanical switch.

Edited by Charlie69
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post

Hey guys, back with an update and more troubles. We haven't driven the truck much at all this year with everything that has been going on. Plus, the few times we have tried to run it, it's been a major pain in the ass to get it to start. The issue we keep running in to is no fuel - the carb bowl will empty and won't refill. I noticed that the gas in the fuel filter/the entire inside of the fuel filter was yellowish (despite the gas being only a couple months old and treated with stabilizer or seafoam, and the tank being totally redone with POR fuel tank enamel in the spring). Carburetor inlet screen was clean. I assumed that the gas still had some kind of rusty or gummy particles in it, perhaps from the original pickup tube (since the fuel filter I had added in the rear, before the hard line, looked the same, and the pickup tube had been rusty inside and I just left it when I recoated the tank interior).

 

I drained all the gas, took the pickup tube out and made a new one out of stainless steel tubing, then got rid of the rear fuel filter and replaced the front fuel filter with a brand new one. Ran the electric fuel pump (Airtex E8016S from Amazon) with the outlet pointed into a jar to try to fill the line and it wouldn't prime it, so I hooked up a siphon and pulled the line, tried the fuel pump again with no luck, then replaced the fuel pump. New fuel pump worked, hooked to carb and runs fine.

 

This is my 3rd electric fuel pump so far, and these fuel system issues are driving me insane. I have now coated the tank, replaced the fuel pickup tube, replaced the level sender, replaced all of the soft lines, removed the original fuel filter bowl, added Fram G12 filter, removed the mechanical fuel pump & added an electric one, and got a new carburetor.

 

I am starting to wonder if my choice in electric fuel pump isn't a good one maybe, or my placement of the pump is too high? Does anyone have any suggestions for electric fuel pumps?

 

Also, is there any good guide on how to adjust this carburetor - the service manual I have has info on a different style carb which doesn't match my replacement or original carb at all. I think it needs some kind of adjustment because when you try to pull out of a driveway or pull into traffic where you are really getting on it from a stop, the truck bogs down and you have to kinda stand on it and pray that it can stop choking and get going in a hurry. The fuel level in the bowl looks low to me? not sure how to adjust that honestly

 

Thanks guys, hope everyone has been enjoying their Datsuns this year

DB1E2156-6CFA-4387-BBED-1266724015E0.jpeg

C5F3EDFA-ABA2-4C5D-91FE-69BEB9C8A2E7.jpeg

BC60FD97-E138-4611-96A6-5962F9E3AB1E.jpeg

Edited by iota
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

First thing is I believe the fuel pump should be close to the tank and slightly below it... most pumps want to push the fuel not pull it.....

 

What psi is the pump rated for?

You want low pressure around 3 or 4 psi.. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

 problems I see.

1  The fuel pump.  Run a used 720 pump. Or Facet Gold Flo FEP60SV Electric Fuel Pump Kit Universal Petrol & Diesel Electric Fuel Cylinder Pump.

 

Facet-Gold-Flo-FEP60-SV-Electric-Fuel-Pu

 

2  Run the pump closest to the fuel tank.  Pumps push fuel better than pull the fuel.

 

3  Put the fuel filter back in between the tank and the pump.

 

Also a return line to the tank for excess fuel keps the fuel to the carb cooler helping to avoid vapor locks in the summer.

 

Also Datsuns carbs will evaporate gas if not driven on a regular basis.  So run the fuel pump for 10 to 20 seconds before trying to start the truck to allow the fuel bowl to fill before cranking the engine for start.

Share this post


Link to post

If your running the Airtex E8016S  the psi should be ok.... quick search said its rated for 4.5 psi....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Sounds good, I'll move the pump to the rear (where's a good spot?)

 

any guides on how to adjust this carburetor?

 

thanks guys

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I see fuel in the carb bowl????

 

3 pounds would be perfect for a fuel pump.

 

I had a Carter eleltric up front and it was fine with dual on another 510 I had.

 

would not prime?? try pulling your finger on the end otherwise it might just suck air like a oil pump

 

this is a EZ fix

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Pumps push quite well but they are limited by atmospheric pressure (14.7 PSI) on the suck side so remove and reduce anything that gets in the way like a long fuel line to the tank or a fuel filter. 

 

At the least put the pump where the filter is.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
15 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I see fuel in the carb bowl????

Yeah it works fine now that I've replaced the fuel pump (for the 3rd time in 100 miles of driving ).

 

2 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

At the least put the pump where the filter is.

The filter is right before the pump on a short bit of hose, i've considered getting it closer or moving it lower so there isn't a loop but I figure that shouldn't matter too terribly much. Sounds like moving the pump further back is the thing to do, I'll see if I can find some way to mount it around the top of the tank or similar

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

now somebody may awnser this better but maybe the filter should be after the pump.

might be ezeer to suck the gas up as filters drain. But then again it works ojk for a mechanical pump.

maybe that why the pumps are burning up cause no gas to cool them down. I don't know Im guessing on this one

 

 

my yellow 510 gas a elelctric back by the tank then a filter up front to Mikunis

Share this post


Link to post

All my years of Datsuning has taught me that any parts store aftermarket pump is garbage.  Try and find a factory pump.  I've used the electric 620 pump out of the air conditioning equipped trucks and had good luck.  Every aftermarket pump I've ever bought burnt out within months of installation.  I'm sure someone has a stock mechanical pump laying around?  

Share this post


Link to post
2 minutes ago, Icehouse said:

All my years of Datsuning has taught me that any parts store aftermarket pump is garbage.  Try and find a factory pump.  I've used the electric 620 pump out of the air conditioning equipped trucks and had good luck.  Every aftermarket pump I've ever bought burnt out within months of installation.  I'm sure someone has a stock mechanical pump laying around?  

I had originally tried to use a mechanical pump - the original on the truck was destroyed due to sitting for a dozen years with bad gas in it - so I got one on ebay and combined the pieces with my original one. It worked fine for a while and then one day the arm broke off inside the crank case so I switched to electrical (after dropping the pan to get the arm out). Haven't found another mechanical one with the right size arm.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
36 minutes ago, Icehouse said:

All my years of Datsuning has taught me that any parts store aftermarket pump is garbage.  Try and find a factory pump.  I've used the electric 620 pump out of the air conditioning equipped trucks and had good luck.  Every aftermarket pump I've ever bought burnt out within months of installation.  I'm sure someone has a stock mechanical pump laying around?  

 

s-l500.jpg

 

 The 620 and the 720 electric low pressure pumps look exactly the same and have the same output pressure. They are close to $150 so no wonder they have a great reputation for being reliable.

 

Here's an unbranded one on e Bay for 1/3 the price. Chinese knock-off??? Ya gits what ya pay fer. Better to pull one from a 720 in a wrecking yard.

 

s-l1600.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I have used the ones on ebay and they are OK.  I buy them from a ebay seller in Britain.

 

This is the seller I have purchased from.

 

720 fuel pump replacement

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
43 minutes ago, Icehouse said:

All my years of Datsuning has taught me that any parts store aftermarket pump is garbage.  Try and find a factory pump.  I've used the electric 620 pump out of the air conditioning equipped trucks and had good luck.  Every aftermarket pump I've ever bought burnt out within months of installation.  I'm sure someone has a stock mechanical pump laying around?  

 

There's nothing wrong with the el cheapo inline pumps generally (sure, some are better made than others)... the key is, as others have stated, they are pusher pumps. And their lift capabilities are fairly limited. But there's no reason a 'Pep Boys quality' inline pump can't do the job if installed as close to the tank as possible.

 

Having said that, hit up a wrecking yard for a 720 pump like @Icehouse and @datzenmike recommend. Permanent solution. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

The dealer mark up is close to $90 so any pump for $50-$60 would be comparable in price/quality. If made in Japan or USA even better.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

I’ve got a lead on a mechanical fuel pump for a j13 if your interested. Can’t copy the link, but let me know if your interested and I’ll do my best to get the link to you. I e grabbed two and installed one and it works fine. 
-Pidge

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
18 hours ago, XXL said:

 

There's nothing wrong with the el cheapo inline pumps generally (sure, some are better made than others)... the key is, as others have stated, they are pusher pumps. And their lift capabilities are fairly limited. But there's no reason a 'Pep Boys quality' inline pump can't do the job if installed as close to the tank as possible.

 

Having said that, hit up a wrecking yard for a 720 pump like @Icehouse and @datzenmike recommend. Permanent solution. 

 

 

I used to build Datto's every day with a buddy, we put together tons of cars over the years.  Not once did we get away with using a cheapy pump, I remember back to back different brand pumps only working a short while.  We had so many issues we wouldn't even bother installing them and just swap the car back to the trusty mechanical pump.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
1 hour ago, Icehouse said:

 

 

I used to build Datto's every day with a buddy, we put together tons of cars over the years.  Not once did we get away with using a cheapy pump, 

 

I too have a wealth of car experience, and we have had vastly different results. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Ok, finally got an original Kyosan-Denki mechanical fuel pump in it again (and put the electric pump in the emergency kit, just in case). Thanks to forum member who pointed me in the direction of someone in Canada selling a new old stock pump with the proper arm for the 520 J13!

 

I took it for a test ride and it's running again but still having an issue with hesitation when shifting / trying to get going in a hurry from a stop. When I shift from 2 to 3 for example, I have to really stand on it and there's a second or two where it feels like we just aren't speeding up like we should. 
 

I just took the carb off (an eBay J13 carburetor, if anyone has a line on a real Datsun carb let me know!), replaced the pretty worn out gasket and adjusted the float slightly to raise the level of the fuel in the bowl to be a little closer to the level indicator. 
 

Took it for a test drive and still having hesitation when shifting up. When I look in the carb barrel and move the throttle linkage, I get a squirt of fuel so the accelerator pump is working (I guess) but I am not sure what / how to adjust. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post

Just spoke to Pierce Manifolds and ordered the Weber carb kit they recommended - will post the details and pics when it arrives and hopefully is the right thing / works!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.