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Bent valve?


Scrapson

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Ok, so back to TDC. How many times have I mentioned verifying TDC? These vehicles are old and probably been taken apart before, and probably by someone who didn't know what they were doing. Never assume TDC is correct!

 

If the head is off, get the bottom end at TDC and mark the pulley with some yellow paint (even white out will work for a while). Ideally, you'll figure out why the TDC pointer is off and give it a permanent fix.

 

The head is off, right? Hopefully you didn't assemble it like that.

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If everything off the front of the motor?

 

Put block to TDC.(ou can put the front cover on to Ck TDC with the Pointer Timmng marks) then pull cover back off.

Now put the head to TDC...Your going to have the HOLD the head so you can put a brecker bar on sprocket to turn the cam cuase the rockerarms and springs will be fighting it.

 

Once both at TDC you cam bolt the head on. Put chain on with sprocket on or remove the sprocket to make it ezer to get the chain on.

 

I cant open your photos so I don't know if it near TDC already or dod you remove everything at TDC.

 

Sell it for 300$

why did we remove the head again?????????????? to check what?   Was it checked> what did you find?????

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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I’ll rotate the cam. I need my pickup back I’m having withdrawals power steering is Cush but I like the workout. They are supposed to be open for anyone to open them but just ask for permission I’ll allow it or I can email it to you dm me

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1 hour ago, Scrapson said:

No the head it still off I’ll adjust it when I get home

 

Try not to lay the head with the combustion chambers down. The valves stick out and can be bent.

 

Just put vice grips on the humps on the center of the cam to turn the cam.

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OK guys, I know your trying to help, but the guy doesn't know what you are talking about, this is like what happened with DP on the brake push rod.

 

This is about what the cam lobes should look like on number 1 cylinder, maybe not exactly like this but close.

DSCN0257.jpg

 

This is where the rotor should be pointed when the distributor is installed, but the distributor drive shaft that is connected to the oil pump also has to be installed correctly to start with, this is something that cannot be explained easily.

DSCN0256.jpg

 

This is TDC, number 1 and 4 cylinders need to be at the very top of the cylinder with the top of the pistons even with the top of the block surface/deck.

DSCN0259.jpg

 

 

 

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You have to start over, them 3 photos I posted are how it has to be.

The rotor is supposed to point at one of the posts on the distributor cap, that post would be where the number one spark plug wire would be, if the rotor doesn't point right at the post your going to have to pull the oil pump back out and re-clock the distributor drive shaft, any other way you have to know exactly what you are doing, even long time members have issues with the subject, it's off a tooth and they cannot get it timed properly, and they have done some weird shit to make it work, stuff you have never herd or thought of, of like modifying/cutting the timing plate and other such unnecessary stuff.

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I bought an oil pan gasket just in case but hopefully tonight I’ll have the head on and the timing crap done so I can start putting vacuum hoses back on and replacing some of them and wire up my tach for anti boom boom measures

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There is not enough room between a mounted head and the oil pan to put the timing chain cover back on, you need to loosen all the side bolts on the oil pan and push it down a quarter inch, then put the cover on, then start the bolts that connect the oil pan to the timing chain cover and then tighten all the oil pan bolts again, not too tight.

Try not to ruin the oil pan gasket, you almost have to remove the engine to change the oil pan gasket out, I can do it without removing the engine but it can become a real pain as that cross member below the oil pan has to be removed/dropped.

Edited by wayno
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Rotating a cam is super easy like I anticipated so much effort literally crescent wrench and spin it 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dwkq11mngDi2qRN0raOkQim5FQEljgeF/view?usp=drivesdk

Does this look correct I have it on number two and pistons are at TDC aswell as the cam. 

Edited by Scrapson
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Okay the timing is set to TDC or very very close the crank is a little off but there is some wiggle room by like maybe 0.5 of a degree. I started bolting on accessories so hopefully by Saturday it’ll be doneish to drive to school instead of a PT cruiser. The only thing that I struggled with on the timing is getting the stupid sprocket lined up right so the chain would get on. I’m gonna have someone take a look at it before I go too much further so if something isn’t right they can tell me but it looks good to me the crank is at 12 and the cam is at 10 and 2 well like 10:05 and 2:05. Hainz video was great to rewatch like 6 times for the 3 minute segment of getting the chain on. 

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Gently rotate the crank pulley clockwise while installing the cam sprocket. Just a little bit. Enough to tighten the tension side of the chain and push the tensioner in its hole. You can also stick a large diameter screwdriver in the cam to help puch the cam sprocket up. Careful not to damage the threads though. Once the cam gear is on, rock the crank pulley backwards a tiny bit and bring it up to TDC slowly, then once it's there, check the notch in the cam sprocket against the plate on the cam tower. If everything lines up, tighten the cam bolt and you're done.

 

Here's a power tip - Stock L motors like a bit of cam advance, and there is enough slop in the dowel pin hole in the sprocket to gain a little advance. When the sprocket is on, and before the cam bolt is tight, rock the motor back against the cam and then tighten the bolt.

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1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Gently rotate the crank pulley clockwise while installing the cam sprocket. Just a little bit. Enough to tighten the tension side of the chain and push the tensioner in its hole. You can also stick a large diameter screwdriver in the cam to help puch the cam sprocket up. Careful not to damage the threads though. Once the cam gear is on, rock the crank pulley backwards a tiny bit and bring it up to TDC slowly, then once it's there, check the notch in the cam sprocket against the plate on the cam tower.

So I presume this is saying I have to take it all apart and do it again 

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Im not getting this, whats going on here.

 

If you got the head on ,TDC dowel in the 12 o clock position and sprocket on #2 DOWEL position and the crank is close to to TDC as piston is up all the way.

 

OK get your sprocket and chain. put the chain brite link on the #2  dimple  chain position  drop it threw the top of the head  and put the cam bolt in and now put the lower brite link of the chain on where you see the dimple on the crank sprocket about 3,30 position . You can move the cam sprocket or crank a cunt hair or so to get it lined up on the brite links on the chain.  Once the brite links are on the dimples it lined up. But it all in the vedio so Im not getting why you fucking this up. Puty a little tension on the crank turning it clock wise you for you to the right so it takes up the tension. Now you install the tensioner and slack side guide.

 

Now if your Chain kit don't have the brite links you take the old chain hopefully you can see the Marked links lay them side by side and mark the new chain with a Sharpie marker or white paint. Those will now be your new Brite links.   You have to go by the brite links on the chain cause nobody mentioned the Cam sprocket YOU PICTURED is the 3 hole variety that you CAN NOT SEE THE CAM TIMMING MARKS!!!!!!!!!!  The Japanese kits have the 4 hole or OSK kits have the multi hole sprockets where you can see the V notch and the Dash on the backing plate.  so you will have to go by the chain brite links to know for sure it lined up.. If no brite links How will we know if your truly at TDC if one cannot see the timming marks for the cam.

 

Did you ever find what was wrong with this head?Or we gojng back to before you tore it apart then there still is the original proplem.

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