front brake hose and copper washer hunt 720

[matrophy]

Saw that both front hoses on my 1986 2WD 720 were cracked while I was replacing ball joints and steering linkage per fastboatman's tutorials and saw that he also has a tutorial posted about changing out the front brake lines.

 

As he describes, even though the front left and right hoses are different, it is pretty certain that you will end up with the wrong hoses from the parts house.

 

Sure enough, I received a left hose when I needed a right hose. 

 

 

Has anyone recently successfully managed to order the correct hoses and if so, where from?

 

There are plenty on RockAuto but all of the photos that are shown with the descriptions show the left hose.

 

Also, it's not clear that they come with the copper washers but some say that they don't come with the hose. 

 

Next question is where can I buy the washers if I have to?

 

Here are the links to 2 of the 3 tutorials for anyone who is interested

 

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/diy-steering-linkage-replacement-nissan-720-truck.html

 

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1986-nissan-720-pickup-ball-joint-replacement-diy.html

[datzenmike]

Left and right are the same part. If your right is different from the left maybe it was replaced before with something else.

 

 46210-09W00 or

46210-09W01 for Hitachi made, or

46210-09W11 for Nichirin made.

 

The copper washers are 46237-A4600. You'll need 2 per side.

 

[matrophy]

Thanks Mike, I wish that were the case but the hoses and brackets that they connect to are definitely different from each other. Here is fastboatman's tutorial on the subject which is exactly what I have. I guess I need to change the brackets but now I need to find the correct brackets. Aargh

 

https://720nissantrucks.weebly.com/front-brake-hose-replacement.html

[datzenmike]

 

If you flip it over they are the same, that only leaves the hard line end. Pretty sure you can make them work. The part numbers I provided are right from Nissan and they list the same exact numbers for each side.

[matrophy]

Now that I look more closely, it does seem like the banjo ends are the same. It's the hard line end that is the problem though. The hard line ends only fit in the brackets on the frame one way because of the little bump and how it's oriented to the flat spot.  I wonder if somewhere along the line they went from 2 different hose ends to the same for both. I ordered some from my local parts house today that also say that they are the same hose for both sides. Maybe I can modify the frame brackets so the clip holds the line how it's supposed to be held.

 

 

[datzenmike]

Maybe just grind the bump off? The clip that holds them to the tab on the frame is very tight.

[matrophy]

Thought about that. I'm not going to panic until the hoses I ordered arrive and hopefully something has changed in the aftermarket versions

 

I was thinking of adding a notch to the bracket but I'll wait until they get here. 

 

I meant to ask you, did you do this recently or was it some time ago? It seems odd that mine and fastboatmans would be so much different than those in your experience and I'm curious if they've somehow been changed

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I wouldn't grind the bump off the hose, I would cut a new notch in the bracket.

[matrophy]

Aftermarket version doesn't have the bump so I should be OK for that part but despite what the clerk told me when I ordered them, they came without the washers. I presume that copper washers are readily available at my hardware store.

 

If anyone is wondering, the hoses I ended up with are Duralast #77520

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Auto parts store for the washers. Though thickness varies, they are all generic. It is common to find new crush washers in aluminum instead of copper.

[matrophy]

Somehow thought the washers would be hard to find but I found them OK. I had to grind a little corner off the bracket on passenger side to get the clip to fit over the hose end but I think that project is now done. Pretty sure the bleeder screw on the pass rear wheel is leaking air when it's cracked open so I couldn't use vacuum pump to bleed it. Had to use the 'drag-son-out-of-the-house-to-pump-the-brakes' method

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Vacuum bleeding is not the best method anyway for finished product. It works well to get the system filled with fluid, but finishing with two-person pump-and-bleed is the best method.