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SLO720

Nissan Diesel Alternator Upgrade

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Before I left my previous job working at an auto parts store I used to mess around and attempt to figure out upgrades for existing parts on my Nissan SDxx motors. One quite viable option that I have quite possibly found is that of a hitachi alternator from an NPR series Isuzu. I have yet to try it but it is as far as I can tell the same case size and an 110 amp alternator vs. a 50 amp. 

 

The case part number for this alternator is an LR1110 while ours is an LR150 which is part of the reason it caught my interest. The other is that it has a shaft exiting the rear for a vacuum pump. My only concern would be wiring it but that shouldn't be difficult I assume that it will wire up like the Maxima alternator that's on my truck now. 

 

Here is an eBay ad for such alternator with said vacuum pump already mounted: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-w-pump-for-03-07-ISUZU-NPR-5-2L-4HK1-110Amp-LR1110-501-8972482970-/182669178570

 

The friend I had ordered one in through an Oreilly auto near him to simply look at it and he said that it matches up very well to our size alternator. The only problem with it was that the rear shaft is larger and will not accept our factor vacuum pump. I think that ordering one with a vacuum pump already mounted online would be the best way to go.

 

Another side note is that this alternator does not run the "T" style alternator plug and has the "D" style plug, which is not a big deal as these plugs can be purchased off of ebay as well (gas alternators may come with the adapters if sold as a reman as remanufacturer will send either for a 720 gas truck or early hardbody. 72384876_2374149922914862_3848368281505273416004_394709244770023_81630372281471473513735_2799001703477580_30150498447429

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They will, I just prefer to have the appropriate pigtail and make something look factory as possible. I really really think this will be a nice upgrade whenever I get the chance to actually do it.

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The big question I have right now is if the Isuzu alt, with vacuum pump, is the same length as the SD-22 alt. In the pics it looks a little bit longer than the alt that is currently on the SD-22, but that could be just a figment of my imagination. The SD-22 alt and starter is not currently on my motor. Later today I will have to put the starter and alt back on my motor and see how much room I do have. If it will fit in the space on that side of the motor mount I have two things that will be taken care of at once. I need higher amps for the electrical plans I have for the pickup, and will still keep the vacuum pump for the brakes.

 

Don

Edited by 620slodat

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I couldn't stand waiting until later today, so I went out and temporarily put the alt back on. On the stock SD alt the vacuum pump sets high enough that if the Isuzu alt is long enough to get the vacuum pump close to the motor mount the vacuum pump will be above it. 

 

Thank you SLO720 for doing the looking.Now, just need to come up with the funds for the Isuzu alt and get it mounted.

 

Don

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It's no problem sir! I was just hoping this could be beneficial to someone else. I may even go this route with my truck. My SD25 was an AC and power steering motor. I used the AC bracket to mount a 7.3 idi vacuum pump and am running a maxima alternator. I have an sd22 ac system I want to put on this truck as well as add the power steering back to it. It'll eventually see a flat bed mounted turbo as well. 

 

Just remember to find one with the vacuum pump mounted on it as they are different from ours. Also these run a different stud so you may need to locate a protective boot to cover the stud on the alternator.

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I was considering going with a Nissan alt (Altima?) with about 100 or more amps and using some kind of electric vacuum pump. Now I won't have to use an electric vacuum pump. I was concerned about how much draw an electric pump might have. Another of my concerns is that I'm planning to eventually add electric power steering to my manual system and how much draw that might have. With 100 amps, and vacuum power brakes, I probably will be OK.

 

Thank you for the heads up on the difference in electrical stud and wiring connector. Knowing this ahead of time will make things easier. I have over 20 years in a cabinet shop and installation of cabinets, so coming up with solutions to problems is not new to me.

 

I would like to add an AC system to the SD-22. I currently have most of the parts needed for AC, which came out of a 2000 Altima. I also have the complete heater/AC system from under the dash of a 1995 Pathfinder. Hopefully I will have time to work on it this winter. I will need to fabricate a mounting bracket for the AC pump, so if you have a pic of the mounting bracket for the SD-22 AC system, and where and how it mounts, would be very helpful. Plans currently are to put a 620 cab onto a 720 diesel frame, which I have both cab and frame.

 

Don

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Hey sorry for the late reply! I don't get on my laptop super often but I do when I think about it. I did grab some pics of how its set up on my sd25 and then of the sd22 ac stuff I have for another motor. They're set up basically the same.

15_zps6klbzmzu.jpg 16_zpsu6kkfpca.jpg13_zps2lacqcoo.jpg14_zpsxwkrdp8f.jpg17_zpst4huhmpr.jpg

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Thank you for the pics!!  5 pics total, good! Now I need to study them. Only problem I have is that the pics are out of focus for me. I'm really certain that the problem is on my end as all the pics in the older threads that I'm reading are the same way. Going to have to get my son or daughter involved. They usually laugh at me for being so dumb about computers.

 

Don

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Unfortunately SLO720 is using Photolame(Photobucket) and he is not paying them and they likely are saying he is over his band limit, therefore the photos are being blurred on purpose, I will not pay them so all my photos are blurred also, and I get reminded by them every few days, if they spent the time they are spending reminding everyone they are over there band limit making there site worth paying for this would not even be an issue.

 

SLO720, you need to use another photo hosting site, try Postimage or something else, please do not use Photolame anymore, that hosting site alone has screwed millions of photos up on hundreds of forums, it will take a while but eventually they will either stop screwing people or go out of business, they even screwed the people that paid them, please use another photo hosting site.

 

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Wayno, I appreciate your info about photolame. But, some of the individual posts in the threads have several photos and one will be clear and the rest blurred out (all in the same post). Why is this happening? By the way, since this site doesn't host pics, and I don't have an offsite photo dump, this is why i seldom put any pics in my posts.

 

Don

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A (good) picture is worth a thousand words. A blurred picture is a waste of time posting it. Get another photo hosting site account. They are free and perfect if all you do is post the odd picture and not into all the social media crap. I put up with PB's bullshit for over 10 years. Slow loading of pictures, constantly changing things and having to learn how to navigate it to get your pictures and constant failure to post them... then holding my pictures hostage for $399 a year to see them????!!!!!, so I finally bailed and am happier for that. They e-mailed me later saying they have a new CEO and it was all a mistake, they were sorry and come back. I told them all the stuff they did wrong, I would never trust them again, would never use them again and to fuck right off. A pox on PB.... kill yourself.

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I only know why some of my photos are blurred and others are not in the same post, sometimes when I post photos they don't always come from the same place/hosting site, I have had 3 or 4 hosting sites over the years and Photolame is one of them, back during the 3 years I was using Photolame(2010-2013) I was taking and posting a lot of photos, likely more photos than the 6 years since(2013-2019), so before Photolame started blurring the photos I would copy some of the earlier photos(because I knew where they were) and attach them to a later post, then share/attach a photo I took that day hosted with another site as a before/after type thing, I don't do this anymore.

As far as I know only Photolame blurs photos, this is done to try and make people pay them money for hosting photos on their site(I got another reminder today that I was over my Bandwidth limit), they used to be a free site, but times have changed and it appears to be legal for companies to change their polices and try to extort money from the site users, it would be a different story if all photos before the change were clear and after the change they were blurred if you didn't pay, but that is not how they went about doing it.

 

 

4 hours ago, 620slodat said:

Wayno, I appreciate your info about photolame. But, some of the individual posts in the threads have several photos and one will be clear and the rest blurred out (all in the same post). Why is this happening? By the way, since this site doesn't host pics, and I don't have an offsite photo dump, this is why i seldom put any pics in my posts.

 

Don

 

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Sorry guys I'll try again once I'm home on my laptop. Found a hardbody I'm pretty sure gas limited slip at the junk yard. Will post pictures tonight to hopefully confirm. It's a h190 with the little abs sensor thing at the front flange. Also a 3.5 diff thought that was also cool and worth mentioning. I'm over my limit with PB and will see about swapping this afternoon. 

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To be sure only the 4 cylinder 2wd trucks got the H-190 and only the '88 through '92 D21s got LSD as an option.

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Sorry still not home, however this is the post I was referring to:

 

 

The diff was set up just like this and was a 3.5 ratio. My only wonder is if it had a jy rear under it or something. I had a dealer friend run the vin and he said open. Me a friend tried to spin the diff and it didnt spin opposingly like a normal open diff would. You could spin one side and only that side spun which is kinda why I was confused. I've never had an open diff not spin both sides.

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Maybe the drum was dragging on the brake shoe on the other side, but I would guess that it is not an LSD, if it was an LSD both sides would turn the same direction or not turn at all, at least by hand.

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Yeah possibly, idk was just hoping for the best. He spun his side and I spun my side but neither would turn the other. Ill find one eventually lol

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What do you want an LSD for?

 

And as far as Photolame is concerned everyone is over limit if they are not paying, I use Postimage but my computer is a desk top.

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I have an h190 out of an 82 4x4 and I plan turbo my 86 4x4. Would like it for snow and mud. I doubt it will help me much. I'd also like the 3.5 or 3.9 ratio to run an r200 front from a 300zx and match (iirc they're 3.5 too) my z24 at 80 on 4.11 isn't much of a fan of high speeds. It's on 235 75 15s 

Edited by SLO720

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I'll Start another thread as I don't want to hijack this one. As for the Pictures here they are once again lol

15.jpg13.jpg

16.jpg14.jpg17.jpg

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I never heard of a 4wd with them type of gears(3.5), but Nissan made a lot of stuff interchangeable so it would not surprise me that one could find everything needed to put 3.5 gears into a 4wd front and back.

I found the LSD I have in a 1993 Nissan hardbody, I don't know about a 4wd, but a LSD in a 2wd isn't so great when it is wet outside or dry for that matter, more than once the back end of my truck has tried coming around making a left turn in traffic where I needed to get my truck moving, and when dry out the whole truck vibrates when making a turn under power.

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 I think for a couple of months when the Z24 came out there was a 3.9 gear set in the 4x4 but quickly changed to 4.11. 720s are heavy!!  I would keep the 4.11s. Turbos only add power when the engine is revved up. No use for rock crawling or around town.

 

80 MPH in 5th with 4.11s and a 29" tall tire is only 3,100 RPMs..... that's nothing!!! It may sound like it's screaming but it's hardly working at all. Don't go to 3.545s or you engine will only be doing 2,700 RPMs and the turbo isn't spooled up yet. Usually with turbos the gears are switched the other way, like a 4.375 set, to get them spinning earlier and making power. 

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Here are some more diesel pictures.

FB-IMG-1572787278475.jpgFB-IMG-1572787273423.jpgFB-IMG-1572787303235.jpgFB-IMG-1572787022960.jpgFB-IMG-1572786972039.jpg20190805-153753.jpg20190721-152035.jpg

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I finally got around to looking closer at the alternator shown in the link in the first post. If you look at the motor with the hood up, and the front of the motor closest to you, the alternator would be on the right side of the block. It looks like on an SD-22 the high output wire to the battery would be coming out right against the engine block. There is a boss with a threaded hole (for a mount of some kind) that sticks out about 3/4 inch from the block right where it looks like the 12V outlet to the battery on the alternator would be.

 

Would a rubber cap over the 12V stud be enough protection, or could it eventually rub through and short out to the block? Unless the battery was disconnected, any work done on the 12V stud looks like it would be a real possibility for the wrench to slip and cause a short. I know that there should be enough space between the 12V stud and the block with a little longer belt in place, but I am concerned about this.

 

I like the idea of having a vacuum source for the power brakes real close to the brakes. All the rest of the alternator is real good, the 110 amp capacity, the mounting ears being the same as the stock alternator, the vacuum pump on the back of the alternator, etc. But, I would like to see the stud for 12V on the right side of the alternator, not the left side. Does anybody know of an alternator like this? Or have an alternator with the 12V stud in the same place as this one that can attest to the safety of the location?

 

Don

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