Adjust timing z24

[Madkaw]

So the my truck has been running a little funny lately . Acts like it’s running lean and sputters out the tail pipe during deceleration . Pulling up in my driveway which is pretty steep it sounded like it burned out the carb and stalled. Seems like I really have to slip the clutch when taking off in first gear or it will studder a bit. Fresh rebuilt and runs good otherwise. I had the vacuum line to the canister pop off twice which made it run lean. Not sure how the hose pops off under vacuum unless there’s some backfiring going on. I finally clamped the hose on. 

I thought I should check timing and using #1 intake wire I couldn’t even find the mark. I tried switching the coil HT wires at the dizzy with no change . I actually crawled under the truck with it running with the timing light and found the mark about 180 degrees on the other side . So then I used the exhaust #1 wire and bingo the mark is within range. I did disconnect the vacuum advance.

So what am I missing here. I thought both sides fired at all times except under load. 

I do have a rather shitty negative terminal end on my battery, so I might be having a weak spark issue. Plugs on the exhaust side really looked good- really about perfect. 

 

Any suggestions ?

[datzenmike]

 

Check each wire and don't assume anything. Firing order is 1342 counter clockwise direction.

[Madkaw]

So I guess I should have asked a more direct question . Should I be able to time using either exhaust or intake wire?

[datzenmike]

Either one will work but if you have to be under the truck to see the mark then the wires must be mixed up.

 

The timing scale is behind the pulley under or near the alternator and the pulley should have a small notch on it....

 

 

There will be no ported vacuum advance at idle. No carb car has had that since the late 60s but you can try connecting it after setting the advance to prove this. The only requirement is that the idle be set correctly. The port that picks up the vacuum signal is above the throttle plate and sees normal atmospheric pressure. As the throttle opens the throttle plate moves up to and above the port and intake vacuum is felt.

[Madkaw]

It’s almost embarrassing that I have to be told to check firing order - but it’s the simple shit that’s gets ya. Hard to believe it ran as good as it did with 1&2 swapped on the intake side - but it runs better now . 

Thanks for the slap in the head Mike- lol

[Charlie69]

Better than banging your head on the hood!

[datzenmike]

10 hours ago, Madkaw said:

It’s almost embarrassing that I have to be told to check firing order - but it’s the simple shit that’s gets ya. Hard to believe it ran as good as it did with 1&2 swapped on the intake side - but it runs better now . 

Thanks for the slap in the head Mike- lol

 

Hey, it's an easy and cheap fix. (the best kind) No harm no foul.

[Madkaw]

so since this is a worthless thread anyway - I’ll clutter it with more crap. 
Drove the truck today on a 50 mile round trip to the machine shop. Ran great in the way there and I was so proud having my firing order in order !

Shortly after starting my return trip the truck started spitting out the tail pipe during decelerations and lacked power - and would die when I stopped ? So I pulled over and was expecting to find a vacuum hose popped off - nothing .

I made it home and checked everything and might have found it . My fuel supply hose to the carb - the shorty rubber one - looks like it might be kinking . A partial collapse per say, cheap fur hose maybe - its all new stuff. I was so pissed I walked away for the day. The day I was having I figured I better no mess with flammable stuff .

It sounded and felt like it was running out of gas , so maybe this is the issue . Found out tomorrow .

[Charlie69]

When I install the Webers on the Z engines I take a philips screw driver with a shank that is close to the inside diameter of the steel supply pipe and slid ie in a couple of inches then I teak the pipe a little to straighten the short piece of fuel hose to the carb.  the screw driver keeps you from kinking the the pipe.  Go easy with it, it does not take much bending to achieve the result you want.

[Madkaw]

Thanks Charlie . I had done that , but the fuel hose was garbage , so I replaced it with better hose . Too bad that wasn’t the problem . 
Truck still runs like crap . It will start up cold and run on the fast idle , but it struggles . If I put an ear to the carb you can hear the fuel sputtering or spitting inside the carb . It’s like there is an obstruction somewhere . 
Ive pulled the supply fuel line and checked for flow - it’s good .

Vacuum gauge shows 18 at idle 

I guess I’ll have to dismantle a brand new carb .

My tank was cleaned and coated 

Fuel flows free at the fuel filter

Fuel was in the float bowl . Can’t imagine I got dirt in there - everything is new it cleaned 

[datzenmike]

Engines make a lot of noises. If the engine struggles but has 18 Hg at idle it's probably something mechanical.

 

The Z24 is prone to head gasket failures. When you rebuilt it, was the head checked for flatness?

 

Can you turn the idle mix  out some to make it richer or try in to lean it out. Does it run better  richer or leaner?

 

 

[Madkaw]

Head gasket is on my mind ,  it want to make sure I’m not over looking something . I’m going to pull the idle jet today and blow it out . 

Yes I had the the head completely reworked including a shave . I did use a cheapy aftermarket HG, but recently got a Nissan one just in case. I see no other signs of a HG failure such of overheating , etc... I guess I could do a compression test to see if that shows anything 

[datzenmike]

Even a cheap gasket would do. Compression test may point to something. Specially two adjacent cylinders. Is coolant level dropping? steamy exhaust?

[Madkaw]

Well once again it turned out simple. I did some google searching and found a thread on cleaning the Weber. All the signs led to a clogged orifice somewhere and why not start at the idle jet. Sure enough I pulled it out and they was some kind of piece of something sticking out of the jet needle . Hard to imagine with a new carb, pump, filter, sealed tank, hoses, that some kind of foreign material found its way in there . Idles fine now. 

Maybe my luck is going to change today . It has to get better than yesterday . 

Bought a 71C from someone on FB and it came in yesterday . 

 

The guy says it turned freely , but I can’t even get it to turn. Water poured out of it when I tilted it. People suck

[Charlie69]

Madkaw tou can buy a bearing and syncro kit for that trans on ebay for around $100. 

 

If you paid with PayPal start a dispute, you might get your money back.

 

Face Book sucks!

[Madkaw]

1 hour ago, Charlie69 said:

Madkaw tou can buy a bearing and syncro kit for that trans on ebay for around $100. 

 

If you paid with PayPal start a dispute, you might get your money back.

 

Face Book sucks!

 

Im thinking this is way beyond a rebuild . 

[datzenmike]

Obviously stored for years outside. 

[Madkaw]

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Obviously stored for years outside. 

With the shifter out of the hole . He said it was bolted to an engine, so that’s why the input shaft was clean when I saw it . I bet it was pulled in one piece with the shifter removed and sat there outside like that

[Madkaw]

Wouldn’t you know a 71C pops up locally for 75$ . I need to adjust my timing - in life

[bottomwatcher]

Yep that's toast! The c's have been in service a long time and are plentiful and cheap. Sorry you got screwed by a prick. They are the best upgrade from the B series. 

[Madkaw]

9 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Yep that's toast! The c's have been in service a long time and are plentiful and cheap. Sorry you got screwed by a prick. They are the best upgrade from the B series. 

I’m not sure cheap , JY’s want 500$ for one , but you can buy a whole parts truck for 500$ . 

[Charlie69]

That is high I buy trucks for $200, $400 tops.