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Do they even make a l20b carburetor rebuild kit?


Clint760

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1 hour ago, Clint760 said:

Yes . I haven't opened it up yet but that is the way he explained it you are correct. 

 

If thats all you need, im willing to be that someone on here has that little teeny tiny thing and would be able to hook you up.  Might even get by shipping it in an envelope for however much a stamp is these days.  Might place a wanted ad if thats what you need.  There are a lot of folks who dislike the factory carb but who love to help keeping datsuns on the road.  I havent one myself as I lost the one to my spare carb (duh huh).

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So I live out in the middle of nowhere.  I have to improvise sometimes so as I peeked in there to see the previous owners fix a little peice of weedwacker fule line and it happend to be the same diameter of those little vacuum lines at the base of the carb . So you guessed it I just cut a little piece of that vacume line pipe off . I plan on gitting rid of all the emissions stuff anyway. I thought I was going to have to take half the emissions stuff off to get those 4 bolts off lol .I was stubborn and just used one side of needle nose pliers to rotate that front right nut .

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On 9/23/2019 at 7:22 PM, datzenmike said:

It's a tiny copper or brass tube about 3/16" long. It sits on the pin the float slides on between it and the glass front. It just prevents the float from sliding sideways towards the glass.

 

Number 47 below

620-039K-01.jpg

 

It amazes me how complicated the the stock carb is.

here is the explode view of the Weber DGEV 32/36 carb.  These are simple carbs.

weber32-36-DGEV.jpg

 

 

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It sure is Charlie. But it has to have low emissions, good compromise with power and mileage, fast warm up, idle smoothly. Provide a ported vacuum for the EGR and have a vacuum operated secondary that only opens when needed. Did you know the Hitachi accelerator pump has a built in leak back to the float chamber? If you step down slowly most of the discharge that's not really needed pushes back and isn't used. If you step down firmer, which can cause a hesitation, the discharge is larger. Yes very complex because of all it has to do.

 

If just mixing gas and air.... a Weber will do. react_haha.png

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I pass emissions every 2 years with my Weber.  I have a significant power increase and I can pull 30 MPG out of my Weber if I drive it nicely.  I did not have any problems with warm up in the winters when I had it in Battle Mountain Nevada.  With most people simple is better.  I find the Weber is one of the simplest carbs manufactured to this day.  My EGR on my 86 works just fine with the Weber.

Edited by Charlie69
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Hello and thank you in avance. 

    I have a 1982 s10 with a Hitachi dch340; it was a refurbished unit installed in 2015. And I am still not able to drive the truck nicely.

    I have set the idle and mixture screw several times, has new plugs, new wires, new distributor cap, newer fuel pump, and 2 new acceleratiom pumps.

      So the truck Idles nicely, compared to before when it used to backfire.

    I set the time to 6deg. Rpm set at 850rpm, but if I try to drive, it feels like I want to take off in 4th gear. 

      I had it driving better before, but hesitated all the time when accelerating. Everyone says it is the carburetor, but not sure. It starts perfect, acceleration pump squirts nicely strong. But when in gear, it bogs down- I checked vacuum diaphragm at egr, and holds. 

   I do have a bad muffler that exploded before I bought the truck, and the catalityc converter seems rusted thru. O sprayed carb cleaner and could not find vacuum leaks. Sorry for the long post. Any help would be appreciated. BTW, the truck is under 50k original miles

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