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Heating up


Lonewolf1990

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6 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

try a 10$ stat first and see. 

 

electric fan works best at stop lights THATS IT. If rolling it don't matter as wind passes thru the rad

 

I heard people use CRL and clean out the rust in the rad also if it don't eat thru everything

Ok I’ll try today I’ll keep u guys updated thank u all for the help🤘🤘

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If scaled up inside the engine or rad going to a cold thermostat is still not fixing the problem. This is like giving pain killers to a gun shot victim. The cause of the pain needs fixing.

 

Engine warmth is what completely evaporates the fuel droplets from the carb. The engine is designed to run in the high 180s. Less than this not all the gas gets used and it's inefficient. This is why a cold start up engine runs like shit till warmed up. A cold engine does not self clean properly and the oil not lubricate properly. Metal parts are expected to expand from the heat and close the lose tolerances and seal properly. 

 

I put full strength CLR in my rad and left for 2-3 days till I could get back to working on it. It's safe for sink drains with copper pipes and lead solder so... ok on rads. It fizzed all the scale out clean.

 

A good cooling system has no problem dumping all the excess heat generated, even driving through the desert with the air con on. Even at 1850 F coolant temperatures, 1150F desert air is 'colder' and will absorb and take it away. That's 600 F difference or to the human body, the same as standing naked outside at the freezing point.

 

 

 

When ever there is a question of over heating I always recommend a new thermostat, even if one was just put in. It could be defective and you could replace everything in your cooling system and there's no change. All because of a $10 part you blindly believe is new therefore good.. 

 

Next  is the gauge. Is it lying to you? Borrow an infrared 'gun' and 'shoot' the thermostat cover. Normal would be in the 180s. If it is it's the gauge that's wrong

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My first question would be what makes you think it is running hot?

Is it blowing out coolant? 

Where exactly on your temp gauge is the needle when it is hot?

Did you delete anything to clean up the engine bay like that hose that was connected to the thermostat housing?

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6 minutes ago, wayno said:

My first question would be what makes you think it is running hot?

Is it blowing out coolant? 

Where exactly on your temp gauge is the needle when it is hot?

Did you delete anything to clean up the engine bay like that hose that was connected to the thermostat housing?

No I’m not blowing any coolant , I have not messed with anything in the engine except a new alternator , but this past two weeks my gauge used to stay in the middle but now lately it have by extremely close to the h

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ck your voltages on the battery using a meter.  Maybe your over charging. Since this was a alternator change its highly unlikely but never know.

 

I use a voltmeter that you put in the cig lighter

https://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0?&camp=212361&creative=391349&linkCode=waf&tag=online0a-20

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

ck your voltages on the battery using a meter.  Maybe your over charging. Since this was a alternator change its highly unlikely but never know.

 

I use a voltmeter that you put in the cig lighter

https://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0?&camp=212361&creative=391349&linkCode=waf&tag=online0a-20

 

I checked the volatile and it’s say I’m running at 13.70

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OK, I went for years with my stock 2 core radiator in my 521(L16 radiator), I had an L20b in it for 15+ years, then I made an LZ23(2300cc) and drove around for another 8 years, just recently it started running warmer in the summer, and it would get even warmer when I left the freeway and came to several stop lights in a row and it didn't seem to want to cool down, even though the radiator didn't look that bad I switched it out for a 3 core aluminum radiator I bought years ago from a member on here, it has been great since.

This issue seemed to come on slowly, a couple years before I noticed it would get warmer when going up inclines but it would cool off going down the other side, but recently it just would not cool down in traffic after exiting the freeway.

13.70 volts is alright, I am used to seeing a little higher, but your not dragging the engine down over charging, so that is not likely the issue.

Do you have a bypass hose on your thermostat housing, do you know what a bypass is?

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29 minutes ago, wayno said:

OK, I went for years with my stock 2 core radiator in my 521(L16 radiator), I had an L20b in it for 15+ years, then I made an LZ23(2300cc) and drove around for another 8 years, just recently it started running warmer in the summer, and it would get even warmer when I left the freeway and came to several stop lights in a row and it didn't seem to want to cool down, even though the radiator didn't look that bad I switched it out for a 3 core aluminum radiator I bought years ago from a member on here, it has been great since.

This issue seemed to come on slowly, a couple years before I noticed it would get warmer when going up inclines but it would cool off going down the other side, but recently it just would not cool down in traffic after exiting the freeway.

13.70 volts is alright, I am used to seeing a little higher, but your not dragging the engine down over charging, so that is not likely the issue.

Do you have a bypass hose on your thermostat housing, do you know what a bypass is?

I’m not to sure , but honestly I i have messed with the engine since I bought the truck it was running great when I got it , this issue just started happening 

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6 minutes ago, Lonewolf1990 said:

I’m not to sure , but honestly I i have messed with the engine since I bought the truck it was running great when I got it , this issue just started happening 

 

I am going to read the sentence above as you are not sure what a "bypass hose" is, and you have not messed with the engine since you bought the truck, is the correct?

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3 minutes ago, wayno said:

 

I am going to read the sentence above as you are not sure what a "bypass hose" is, and you have not messed with the engine since you bought the truck, is the correct?

Sorry , I do not know what the bypass is, and since I bought the truck I have not messed with the engine 

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The bypass hose is a small hose that connects to the thermostat housing, it goes down to a metal pipe with a "Y" on it, that line goes from the intake manifold to the top of the lower radiator hose connection on the block, what a bypass hose does is let hot coolant out of the head by bypassing the thermostat, this allows hot water in the head to get out and warm up the thermostat till it opens, if there is no bypass then the thermostat needs an eighth inch hole drilled in it so the coolant bypasses that way.

See that small hose under the upper radiator hose, the vacuum advance hose/line fitting is pointed right at it, do you have this hose?

DSCN1135.jpg

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10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Next  is the gauge. Is it lying to you? Borrow an infrared 'gun' and 'shoot' the thermostat cover.   Normal would be in the 180s. If it is it's the gauge that's wrong

 

This is positive proof if its over heating or not. A 180F thermostat probably runs mid 180s.

 

Could be the sender is bad or the gauge but without knowing for sure, a lot of time, bother, expense and tail chasing will follow.

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  • 9 months later...

alright datsun fam so my truck still goes the h when driving but cools down when im at a stop , i already changed the thermostat, just added a 3 row radiator and a electric fan the stock fan, im still running to the same issue, what could be the issue? 

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Did you borrow an IR gun (infra red) and check that the engine is actually over heating and it's not a bad gauge or sender lying to you????? You may not be over heating.

 

Where is the needle pointing when it is 'over heating'???

 

 

Did you check the bottom rad hose as mentioned? Is it soft? Does it collapse from pump suction when revved up???

 

Is the fan belt tight?

 

Have the heater hoses been joined together??

 

Are you constantly now adding water to top the rad up? Could be blown or blowing head gasket.

 

Timing was mentioned. Retarded timing allows much of the hot expanding gasses to escape out the exhaust ports and dumps most of it into the water jacket around them instead of doing work pushing the pistons.

 

Spin the clutch fan with your fingers. When you let go, does it continue to spin? 1/4 turn? 1/2 turn? more? The clutch is bad. It should be firm to turn.

 

 

 

All this was asked long ago and should have been checked instead of an extra fan added that didn't help.

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Yes I have checked the hoses they do not collapse , I did get the truck tuned and timed correctly , no the heater hoses have not been joined together , yes the fan belt is tight , when I spin the fan it’s , 1/2 a turn 

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To be clear, when you spin the fan it should be very firm and not continue to turn when you give it a twirl. If it continues to turn, even a little, it will not move enough air as it revs up. It's basically slipping.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/4/2019 at 7:44 AM, datzenmike said:

 

 

Next  is the gauge. Is it lying to you? Borrow an infrared 'gun' and 'shoot' the thermostat cover. Normal would be in the 180s. If it is it's the gauge that's wrong

 

Mentioned this a second time. What if your gauge is wrong? New rad, pump or thermostat won't fix that.

 

Use an infra red gun and shoot the thermostat housing while the gauge is 'over heating' and see what it says.

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