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You're my boy, Blue '71 521 - KSwap


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13 minutes ago, BrothersGarage said:

Another 'big ticket' item came in a day early. KMiata v2 flywheel. I also ordered it with the optional Honda OEM bolts

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Which really only leaves the final 'big ticket' item being the wiring harness. Talking to Rywire to see what they can do as far as a custom tuckable harness that includes the charging and ground system to make it ultra clean, however there may be some custom-custom work done to accommodate the setup. 

From there it's radiator and cooling / fuel tank and fuel lines  and we can test fire. or vice versa if we're feelin' squirrely.


use stock 02-04 RSX-S harness and a convertion harness to save money its really simple.. and also you can make your own charge harness its all very easy once you look into it! and Great job its looking great!!! Also let me know if you need a map for your kpro i got a SPICY tune for it, i ran it when i was stock all motor  k20a2, night and day difference vs the preload maps.. now im boosted

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1 hour ago, 80datson said:


use stock 02-04 RSX-S harness and a convertion harness to save money its really simple.. and also you can make your own charge harness its all very easy once you look into it! and Great job its looking great!!! Also let me know if you need a map for your kpro i got a SPICY tune for it, i ran it when i was stock all motor  k20a2, night and day difference vs the preload maps.. now im boosted


I will look into that, thanks for the heads up!

I would also love to get a copy of that NA tune. I am starting out n/a with plans for boost in the future. 

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  • 1 month later...

Whelp my Bro has taken a side gig putting a 1958 Dodge back together that hasn't been on the road for the last 35 years in exchange for a 1968 Convertible Camaro that last saw the road in 1992 and has been sitting in a garage which means it's time to bring Ole Blue home. Should let me do some more of the stupid stuff like removing the brakelines before we ro-do everything and POR15 the frame. 

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Cranked her up on his flatbed and hit the road

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Made a pitstop to get some pressure treated wood that will make a home for him and give me some cover to work under - btw wood is FUCKING expensive. Tossed the 2 20 footers on one side and a 12 footer on the other and then headed to my place.

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I gotta say he can whip a trailer around like no one's business, super impressive. Lifted those goddamn boards off and dumped ole Blue off

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And re-arranged things a bit and tossed the doors on Blue and called it a night.

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Caught a wild hair today. Decided to grab a shot and started putting together the portable garage. It's all held together now with self tapping screws and feels super sturdy. 

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Going to have to wait for my Bros help to carry it to the front of the house though. Legs can go on and then we can see where the big ass treated wood can go down so that this will sit in the middle of the 4x12x20' beams and the 4x12x12' will be in the back. I grabbed some 2' long pieces of J-Bar that will be pounded into the ground to anchor the beams. 

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Been hot as balls so extra labor in the direct sunlight has been having to wait till like 7 or 8 at night

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But the frame is up as of today, and went to go help Bro get the new customers truck - check this old beauty split window. 

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Barn find that will be put back full running and driving. Love seeing stuff like this happen. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up and put a sandblaster + aluminum oxide sand blasting media on Friday & picked up a used 150psi 15 gal compressor that's rated to be able to run off of 110 and can keep up with demand today. Need to tighten the sand blaster shit, get a full face mask PPE, and a new pair of welding gloves and I will get to work.

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Going to probably pick up another 50lbs box or two of sand blasting media, but I'm going to try laying down a tarp and catching a good deal of it and sifting / reusing it before I pick extra up. 

Edited by BrothersGarage
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I hate to even ask this because it just brings up a bad experience but how long does 50lbs last with that setup?

Reason I ask is I need my truck bed sandblasted.... I'd rather do it myself but my experience with a blast pot like that let's just say didnt go so well... rental not something i bought.....

I was going have it done by a dustless blast company but I have a bunch of left over media that I would rather use up if I could..... 

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1 hour ago, Charlie69 said:

I have the same sand blaster and I run it on my 5hp 80 gallon compressor. it runs continuously while sandblasting.


Awesome. I have less capacity for stored air but it's good to know that this setup should handle the demand without stressing.
 

49 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I hate to even ask this because it just brings up a bad experience but how long does 50lbs last with that setup?

Reason I ask is I need my truck bed sandblasted.... I'd rather do it myself but my experience with a blast pot like that let's just say didnt go so well... rental not something i bought.....

I was going have it done by a dustless blast company but I have a bunch of left over media that I would rather use up if I could..... 


I'm not quite sure but I can answer that for you once it's not 100º and I get my PPE in. This setup is a 20lb pot so I should be able to bplast a good bit before having to do the recycle process. I considered having one of those awesome glass sandblaster dudes come out and get it done with the qucikness, but I have some rims I want to sandblast with walnut shells to finish the work on them, Bro wants to use this on the truck he is putting back together above, and I've already had a couple friends reach out wanting me to do their rims / various other parts so I figured it would be worth the investment to "break even" and walk away with a new tool that we can use so I went and bought. 

I would look into local companies that offer blast media for sale because this little test box was $45 for 50lbs which is just STUPID - but when no one else is open due to COVID...

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10 hours ago, BrothersGarage said:


Awesome. I have less capacity for stored air but it's good to know that this setup should handle the demand without stressing.

 

Pretty sure he is saying that there is a good chance your compressor may not be big enough. Need high CFM for blasting. The other thing is I doubt that compressor is rated for 100% duty cycle and it will probably run continuously while blasting like Charlie69's 5HP compressor.

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3 hours ago, powderfinger said:

 

Pretty sure he is saying that there is a good chance your compressor may not be big enough. Need high CFM for blasting. The other thing is I doubt that compressor is rated for 100% duty cycle and it will probably run continuously while blasting like Charlie69's 5HP compressor.


The one I got was rated for 150PSI / 9CFM / and house painting & airtool use so it should be able to do "OK" with running for longer periods in time though it's not going to do as well as Chucks or a larger setup. If it sucks then I can still use my Bros 30gal on wheels or worst case take the truck and  blaster over to his place and use his 80gal when he wants to use it on the Dodge split window. 

Edited by BrothersGarage
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For extended blasting, that compressor won't keep up.  You're basically dumping air out a 3/8 inch hose.  Pressure drop is massive.  However, if you get your brothers 30 gal, you can switch back and forth between the two compressors and keep up an ok rate while giving them both a little down time to reduce duty cycle.

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PPE arrived this week with a full face mask, and some new welding gloves. Everything taped up in the engine bay

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did a test spot on the frame and it looks like it should be good to pick away at this for a while when it's not 100º in the tent

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Anyone have any recommendations for spray on weld though primer?

Edited by BrothersGarage
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On 7/27/2020 at 6:44 PM, BrothersGarage said:

I would look into local companies that offer blast media for sale because this little test box was $45 for 50lbs which is just STUPID - but when no one else is open due to COVID.

Check out Tractor Supply's coal slag blasting abrasive.  I've used it before and had good luck plus it is about $9 for a 50lb bag.  There is a Tractor Supply in Arlington and Monroe.

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2 hours ago, chukar said:

Check out Tractor Supply's coal slag blasting abrasive.  I've used it before and had good luck plus it is about $9 for a 50lb bag.  There is a Tractor Supply in Arlington and Monroe.


Thanks for the heads up! Looks like there is one down in my area too. I'll swing by there this week and pick up like 3-4 bags to start cycling though that and that will still be cheaper that a single box from Harbor Freight. 


This ended up being about 20lbs though the setup. The Harbor freight sand blaster is only rated for 60lbs of pressure in the can itself with 30lpbs max capacity of material. The compressor setup I have going kept her right around 50-55lbs under full stream sanding. That ended up lasing about 12 minutes before it ran out of the aluminum oxide stuff I'm running currently.  That resulted in this:

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(she got primered with some etching weld though steel-it for now)

Just the top side of the rail done and still needs a little going back and work. I figure I can reclaim at least 50% of the blast media each time I spray as long as I don't go full spastic with it.

Going to pick up a better sifter than what I have now this week and going to finish scraping the rest of the frame down with full prep and then I will pull off the spare and rear wheels / cover the stock h stuff and sit down to a full day of blasting the rear frame and spray primer it. Then I will put the wheels back on the back and see if my bro can come over and help me lift the cab onto the back of the frame and get to working on the front. 

Edited by BrothersGarage
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  • 3 weeks later...

Caught a case of the Rona and that set me back a few weeks. Back at it, I managed to get the driver side inner and top of the rail sanded down

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And hit it with some PBE weld though primer 

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this is what the entire frame is going to get hit with before I decide to either tackle the rear swap now or just do fuel system and brakes for the time being. Then I will Por15 the frame. 

Had the brothers from down the street @redline280z / @zerospiritr32 over the other day bullshitting while having their friend @mayhemandmechanics measure out the engine harness & dash harness. All spec'd out and getting built now all tefzel wiring twisted and heat shrunk with raychem dr-25 all made to be plug and play with the new ignition system on the way and the Hondata Kpro v4 and miata trans I already have. Once that is here that basically wraps up the 'big stuff knocked down. It's also going to come with extra wires in the harness that will allow me to expand it when this inevitably goes turbo. 

Edit: Updated rear top pic:
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Rear inner:
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Edited by BrothersGarage
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I would look at using a different product than POR 15 since you are removing all the rust.  POR chemically bonds with iron oxide which is where you get the superior bonding strength.  If you remove the rust from the equation, other chassis coatings are better suited.

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10 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

I would look at using a different product than POR 15 since you are removing all the rust.  POR chemically bonds with iron oxide which is where you get the superior bonding strength.  If you remove the rust from the equation, other chassis coatings are better suited.


Open to any recommendations. Raptor liner? lol

Edit: This is how today ended with another hour or so sandblasting away and then sifting though the material - letting the dust settle and then spraying the bare metal.

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Probably going to cut out the spare tire hanger to mount the gast tank so I don't think I will bother with that but I will still pull the brake lines on the far side, and do the main bars side to side. 

Edited by BrothersGarage
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brake lines off, everything except the bottoms and sides where the tires are has been grown down to bare metal with either the sandblaster or wire wheel and hit with weld through primer now. Gotta do the 1 more body mount and the 2 cross members.

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Going to header over to Bros house tomorrow and get some stands he made out of wood to bring this up like 2feet off the ground so I can knock out the under side of the frame in the back. 

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removed both tires today and got the outsides of the frames done up to the first bed mount. 

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I think I am going to do the cross beams next. I also went and got the wheel blocks to get the ass of this baby in the air so I can get the under side next. 

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Edit: Now being about half way though the frame grinding / sandblasting - I would consider paying one of those dudes to come out and do it in a day as I am about 5-6 hours thus far.

Edited by BrothersGarage
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I admire your effort to say YOU DID IT, but thats like you said, 6 plus hours of time in and how much in sand, and what ever else you bought to do this. Pop the cab off and send it out to get blasted and powdered if your not modifying. Or cut and weld the work you are doing then send out to get finished up. A+ for effort though keep it up.

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3 hours ago, mrbigtanker said:

I admire your effort to say YOU DID IT, but thats like you said, 6 plus hours of time in and how much in sand, and what ever else you bought to do this. Pop the cab off and send it out to get blasted and powdered if your not modifying. Or cut and weld the work you are doing then send out to get finished up. A+ for effort though keep it up.


For sure! I haven't done a frame up resto before so it's been a good learning experience and I will take pride i knowing that I did it, but this will likely take 2-3 times longer than I expected to complete. Glad I'm not in a hurry to get it done for SEMA or anything lol

So far the investment is about $300 for the material / bucket / sifter / sand blaster / compressor / misc wire wheels / paint / respirator so its not a bad investment. I will be able to finish up those sawblade rims with some refinishing with crushed walnut media too so it gives me something to tinker on and stay out of trouble. 

Edited by BrothersGarage
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  • BrothersGarage changed the title to You're my boy, Blue '71 521 - KSwap

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