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Jef-fro

Kingpins

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I just tore down the front end on my 69 521 and everything is shot.The threads on the upper control arms and fulcrum pin a worn all the bushings and kingpins need to be replaced.Just wondering if any of you guy that are doing balljoint mods have any of these parts laying around 

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Yeah  I saw that kingpin kit on eBay it looked kinda shady and the shipping was like 70 $ looks like I might just have to buy the Autozone kit $$$ thanks bud

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I have bought stuff from Cyprus, and was very pleased with it.

I bought upper & lower fulcrum shaft sets, and they were genuine Japanese parts.

Is the autozone stuff US, Taiwan, or ching-chang crap ?

Most of what I've bought lately from Rock Auto was ching-chang, and I sent it back.

They have been substituting brands a lot lately, and it's enough to tick you off.

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I’m not sure I know it’s expensive 375 for the kit.I thought about going with a ball joint mod but I watched some vids and it looks like a headache.

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On 8/23/2019 at 2:51 PM, Jef-fro said:

I just tore down the front end on my 69 521 and everything is shot.The threads on the upper control arms and fulcrum pin a worn all the bushings and kingpins need to be replaced.Just wondering if any of you guy that are doing balljoint mods have any of these parts laying around 

Put a 720 Chassis under it. 

You will have :

1. No king pins

2. Disc brakes on the front

3. Removable transmission cross member

4. Rag joint in the steering column

5. Steering gear and pitman arm on the outside of the frame

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That would be great but over my head. I found a kingpin kit and support knuckle upper bushings and fulcrum pin seals.just ordered everything but looks like it’s gonna take a while on the shipping overseas 

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I think you might find changing out your king pins may be over your head also, it is not easy to do, even Mike K. sent that job out rather than doing it himself.

When I did my first king pin assembly I had to take it apart and do it over again as it was hard to turn and didn't return by itself, the bushings need to be reamed the proper amount for them to work properly.

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It may be hard to find a shop that actually knows what they're doing when it comes to reaming kingpins.  If you can't find one that doesn't give you a deer in the headlights look when you mention kingpin reaming, then you can get yourself a reamer and do it yourself if you're patient.  I would suggest getting an adjustable reamer with a centering pilot so you can do the reaming in place and on axis, otherwise you end up having to over-bore or waller out at least one of the bushings.

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We have a local guy that deals with a lot of kingpins on equipment and 18 wheelers 

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Old 60s and 70s Ford trucks are king pins find a old guy that knows those and he can do them.

 

If not too rusted out it can be done but its a pain done mine 2 times key is finding the right machine shopt to do them and you reinstall. Still about 250-300$

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Old 60s and 70s Ford trucks are king pins find a old guy that knows those and he can do them.

 

If not too rusted out it can be done but its a pain done mine 2 times key is finding the right machine shopt to do them and you reinstall. Still about 250-300$

That's a bit pricey....

The shop that did the machine work on my engine was able to fit the bushings and size them to the king pin....

I think I paid around 120 for both ....

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I did my 521 twice and still sucked after a couple of months. The cure was to get a '78 and up 620 that had ball joints..... never again.

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I think I've asked this before, but I forget - does the balljoint 620have the exact same suspension as the 720? One thing that I really liked about the 720 setup is the geometry. There's more camber gain built in to the balljoint design than the standard kingpin design. Also, the balljoint setup uses larger TC rods.

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I was planning on just cranking the tension rods tighter (shorter) to pull in more castor, which will result in more camber when the wheels are turned.

 

On the installing thing for king pins, as soon as I bought the truck 15-ish years ago, I snapped up king pins, and the reamer for doing them, even though the king pins were in good shape. Having the correct reamer is the key.

An adjustable reamer can be used, but it's a tougher job, as it's easier to screw up.

Mine still are pretty good, but the rest of it, including the fulcrum shafts are not, so when I do those, the king pins will be done at the same time.

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I believe the 1978 thru 1982 Datsun trucks are the same with a couple exceptions, the upper control arms on the 620s have bump stops on the them while the 720 upper control arms are the same thru the 720 run, also the 620 has a solid steering column while all the 720 columns were collapsible with a rag joint somewhere, also I believe that the steering gear/idler arm were mounted on the inside of the frame while on all the 720s they were mounted on the outside of the frame.

The front brakes were all the same as far as I know, but if the frame/chassis has ball joints brake upgrades are bolt in.

6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I think I've asked this before, but I forget - does the balljoint 620have the exact same suspension as the 720? One thing that I really liked about the 720 setup is the geometry. There's more camber gain built in to the balljoint design than the standard kingpin design. Also, the balljoint setup uses larger TC rods.

 

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Did the balljoint 620s have the column mounted to the box without joints? Is that box mounted inside the frame rail, or outside like the 720?

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