datsunfreak Posted December 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2020 5 hours ago, EDM620 said: I'm preferring the 3x 4" gauges, sorta maintains the width of the original gauge concept That is the way I am leaning currently. These aren't cheap, so I have a little time to ponder before ordering... 😁 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted December 19, 2020 Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 Do you guys ever reuse factory gauges in your builds? Why are new gauges worth the cost for you? New gauges are never in my budget so I'm just curious. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted December 19, 2020 Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) On 11/28/2020 at 4:33 PM, datsunfreak said: Rainy day makes me want to revisit satin clear coat idea... I remember an article in Hot Rod a while back where someone wanted to preserve a truck in similar shape to yours, and they actually put 3-4 coats of liquid floor wax on it. They claimed it works well, beads up water, and looked fine in the pictures. That might be worth a try on a small spot. If it's too shiny, you could hit it with a fine scotch brite pad to knock the shine down a bit, I would think.. I took quite a few classes in Autocad and Microstation back in the day, and I still use the same CAD methods as you. Much easier and faster. (I'm not building parts on a CNC, though) Edited December 19, 2020 by Duncan 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 5 hours ago, Duncan said: I remember an article in Hot Rod a while back where someone wanted to preserve a truck in similar shape to yours, and they actually put 3-4 coats of liquid floor wax on it. Thanks! 👍 https://www.hotrod.com/articles/retaining-that-patina-finish/ 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2020 20 hours ago, Lockleaf said: Do you guys ever reuse factory gauges in your builds? If it's modern enough to have decent gauges, yes. 😁 You'll notice on Tim's van, all we did was add a small tachometer. 20 hours ago, Lockleaf said: Why are new gauges worth the cost for you? Generally because we just want something more accurate, with more details/information, and it doesn't hurt if it's more stylish. On something like this Galaxie, there really are no stock gauges. All you got in 1967 was fuel and MPH. I definitely want/need more than that. 👍 And since the transmission I am using has no speedo pinion in it (it's too new, so it's only set up for a VSS), using a GPS speedo will make it a bit simpler. And you don't have to spend $600 on gauges to do something custom. If you are using a trans that will run a mechanical speedo, it can be done fairly cheapish. You could easily do aftermarket gauges for less than $250ish. And it's not often we ask "why". We usually only ask "how"... 😄 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 That makes sense. I didn't consider the limitations of the stock gauges in this. I'm with you on needing more info. I'm usually want engine temp, oil pressure and voltage at minimum. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) 12 hours ago, Lockleaf said: I'm usually want engine temp, oil pressure and voltage at minimum. Honestly, another low budget option I considered was something like these... https://www.jegs.com/i/Intellitronix/556/M9999W/10002/-1 Or these... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-800600w In the end, the Speedhut stuff might seem expensive at $600+, but for something of this high level of quality, made in America, to my custom specs, I think it's a bargain. Edited December 20, 2020 by datsunfreak 2 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Share Posted December 20, 2020 Given the original wide display of factory "gauges" I'm initially liking the panel from Summit vs individual gauges, but the panel is just numbers and IMO would be the kinda useless. The bar graphs of the tach & speedo are more appealing, and I'm sure you can make that look good in your build. IMO, numbers that are constantly changing are difficult to read at a glance and that's why bar gauges are better. Is "2432" RPM critical or being able to see that it's running at about 2500 RPM more useful. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted December 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2020 On 12/20/2020 at 1:37 PM, EDM620 said: numbers that are constantly changing are difficult to read at a glance and that's why bar gauges are better. Same. 👍 Only upside to the wide number display would be that it fits in the same space occupied by the stock speedo. But that is really of no benefit if I'm replacing the entire dash face. If I had seen that back before I went this far, it would have been a more enticing option. 😄 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 (edited) Well, a thing has been ruminating in my head for a few weeks, and I think I may be pulling the trigger on an important change soon... This car was originally a 289 2V, and that certainly would not do. It came to me with a mid-70s 302 2V purchased by the previous owner. I had always intended to use that engine in the car because I wanted something that was a nice mix of grunt and rev-happy and an older 302 fits that bill. I really would prefer an Explorer 302 because it has a roller top end, but can't be picky about an engine that was "free". Doing some research, I discovered that Ford built a 351W with a roller top end, for use in the 94-96 E150 vans and F150/F250 trucks. And as it happens, I know someone parting out a '95 E150 with 98k miles on it, with a great running 351W engine. These are supposed to make around 290hp/350tq, versus the older 302 being around 225hp/300tq. More power/torque, and reportedly just as revvy as a non-roller 302 seems like a no brainer, right? Anyone have any input on the matter? Obviously this new engine is not free, like the one I already have, but it seems like a smart play? I have yet to find anyone who took out a 302 to install a 351W who regretted it, so... Edited January 2, 2021 by datsunfreak 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 And in case it wasn't obvious, I would use an aluminum carb intake with a 4 barrel, and swap in an early 80s distributor to make the install easier to wire/tune. 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) On 1/2/2021 at 10:11 PM, ]2eDeYe said: Do it! I actually went and looked at it today... 😄 Doesn't look like too much fuss. There are a few key differences, though... Trucks/vans use a rear sump oil pan but cars are front sump. It looks like it's just a matter of plugging the dip stick hole in the block and drilling a new one in the timing cover. There's even a cast-in boss on the timing cover that shows you where to drill it. 👍 Strangely, even though this engine has modern EFI that controls ignition advance, there are timing marks on the crank and a pointer on the timing cover. It look like the harmonic balancer has the same bolt pattern for the belt pulley (will measure mine to confirm), so I should just be able to swap over mine. Flywheel bolt pattern looks the same (will measure mine to confirm), so I should be able to use the flywheel I already bought. Edited January 7, 2021 by datsunfreak 2 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted January 8, 2021 Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 The Windsor should not only be a relatively simple swap due to many similarities (essentially the bigger brother) but was used in many more applications over a much longer production run so things like oil pans and oil pickups came in many configurations from the factory. I had a built 351W (briefly) in my '69 Econoline but swapped that out for a stock 289 to be more streetable (it was a sin bin not a dragster). Also, the 351W is a better revving engine than the 351C ever could muster. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 Wednesday we also did a little head scratching on the pedal conversion. More info to follow... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) So I went back and forth on what to do for the pedal conversion and finally decided that instead of using the entire pedal assembly I bought (from a '98 Ranger), I would try just using the pedals. They mount the same way and are the same length as the stock pedal, so how hard could it be? But when we disassembled them, stumbling block #1 is that the pin that holds it all together is 5/8" on the Galaxie, but it is 1/2" on the Ranger. So we took the Galaxie brake pedal and removed the tube for the pin... Then removed the tube from the Ranger brake pedal and redrilled it for the Galaxie tube... And then Tim welded that in for me... The pin is welded to the clutch pedal on a Ranger, so we removed that... The we redrilled it and welded in a 5/8" bolt to be the new pin (I needed it to be longer than the original one)... Then chucked the pedals in for a test fit... The Ranger brake pedal pin for the master cylinder push rod lines up very nicely... Sat back and thought, "wow that was easy". I should not have thought that. After marveling at my amazing fab skills I noticed my fatal error. If you look at that pedal pic, you can see that the brake pedal is in the space where the steering column goes. 🙄 So I took them back out, and we spent about an hour with a torch and did some twisting and tweaking... Now they not only fit, but I can actually reinstall the steering column without the brake pedal hitting it... 😄 You may notice the pedal pads were a little close together in that installed shot, so while we were bending them into a pretzel, I relocated the clutch pedal pad about a 1/2" further away from the brake pedal. The brake pedal is almost exactly straight below the steering column, and the spacing between all 3 pedals is much better now. I may move the gas pedal a little closer to the brake pedal, but we shall see... We took them back out to paint them, and will hopefully reinstall them "permanently" on Saturday. I first need to make a stop bar for the pedal bracket to limit up travel and see about hooking some springs to them so we don't have any issues with brake drag (been there, hated that). Also, did not like the weird brake light switch Ford used, so we will integrate into the brake pedal and stop bar a mount and tab to use a Datsun style brake switch... Edited January 14, 2021 by datsunfreak 2 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 Installed the pedals this morning and they seem to fit and work well. I did chuck the column in and moved the brake pedal through it's range just to be sure. When they are finished and hooked to the masters, they probably won't be quite this high... I have been sort of looking here and there for some center caps for these wheels. I saw these on a late model Mustang that had similar wheels and decided to get a set of them and see if I could adapt them to these wheels. As it happens, they popped right on... 😁 In fact, I think I may go ahead and keep these wheels and just get some wider rubber for them... 😄 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 Yeah, definitely need something to fill the rears out better... 😁 2 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 Need a deep set of those for the back for sure. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said: Need a deep set of those for the back for sure. These are actually wide, just not deep (17x9). but they have tires on them that are way too small. And some idiot narrowed the rear end, so... 😄 I would consider that option, but buying two of these is not in the cards. If I spent that much, I'd just spend a wee bit more and get something I like better. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Gonna put spacers on the rear to filll that gap? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/22/2021 at 8:31 PM, Lockleaf said: Gonna put spacers on the rear to filll that gap? It already has 1" spacers on the back... 😄 1 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 Put the column back in last night to move it, and the brake pedal clears by about 2mm. 😁 Started looking at fitting the master cylinders, and that has presented its own challenges. More on that later... On 1/22/2021 at 8:31 PM, Lockleaf said: Gonna put spacers on the rear to filll that gap? And after taking some measurements, I think I found a potential solution. the fronts are 17x8 with 245s on them. The rears are 17x9 with 245s on them. Since the rear tires are way too skinny for the wheels, I think the solution is to get something more fitting like a 275, then either swap the spacer for a 1.25" or 1.5". That should fix the hellasunk rear. 👍 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Those who were here since early pages of the thread may recall I bought some Recaros from an Evo 9 for this project. When I originally looked at fitting them they sat much too high, so I wanted to look into what we could do about that... There's a lot going on down there, so I took it all off... Believe it or not, that hunk is about 15-20 pounds per seat... 😆 I'm going to replace all that with some simple brackets like this, but will probably make my own... You may recall these had air bags in them, so those needed to come out also, along with all associated wiring. Took the cover loose on the driver's seat and pulled the bag out... Now I need a piece of thick foam to replace the gap in the side bolster foam where the bag was, so the seat maintains the proper shape... The passenger seat was not so easy since the bag was actually blown in the wreck that totaled the Evo. So on that side I had to remove the covering for the entire top half of the seat... I have a friend who's good at custom upholstery work who is gonna stitch up the spot where the bag came through. Once it's back together the repair should be invisible. 👍 While they are half apart, I am going to do something different with the harness hole trim pieces... I don't like the cheesy fake carbon fiber texture they have, so I will either sand them down and paint them satin black, or paint them wrinkle-finish black. Thoughts? Wrinkle is currently in the lead so they will match the dash... 😁 Edited January 31, 2021 by datsunfreak 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Gonna be able to drive this one soon Quote Link to comment
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