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1967 Galaxie 500 Project


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I love vintage American on super fat meat like that.

 

My buddy has a late 70s caprice (both sedan and wagon versions) lowered like 3 inches and sitting on 235s with a 15 inch rim. Looks mean.

 

I know that's not quite a 295 (well because Dayum!) but just trying to say I'm a fan.

Edited by Lockleaf
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On 3/27/2020 at 11:04 PM, Lockleaf said:

My buddy has a late 70s caprice (both sedan and wagon versions) lowered like 3 inches and sitting on 235s with a 15 inch rim. Looks mean.

 

I know that's not quite a 295 (well because Dayum!) but just trying to say I'm a fan.

 

Honestly I was looking at my buddy's Torino today with 235s on the back and they do look killer. It helps they are on wheels with a deep offset so it's fairly flush with the fender. 

 

A 255/60-15 is also available, and while not quite as insanely wide, they are the same height. And they look pretty beefy on an 8" wheel...

 

 

 

Edited by datsunfreak
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Apparently i don't know what I'm taking about...

 

My buddies car copied this cars wheels/tires (bangshifts project buford)

Buford_T_Justice_9C1_Caprice_Hotchkis_Mi

 

Which it turns out is a 275/40R17.  Maybe he had 235 R15 before this setup.

 

Regardless, carry on.

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16 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Which it turns out is a 275/40R17.  

 

Yeah, that's kinda the way I was headed, but looking at a 255/50-17 on the same Cragar Soft 8s as Buford, but in 17x8 instead of 17x9.

 

The 275/40-17 is tempting, but a little too small of a diameter for this car.  

Edited by datsunfreak
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So, I had always assumed this car had the regular Ford 9" diff in it, as all of them did up until this point. Well, last week I was doing some reading and found out that starting in '67, all the straight 6 and most of the 289 cars had an oddball 8.75" diff. And this is one of the cars that got it... 

 

And you can't get parts for it, not even rebuild parts, so there are definitely no options to change ratios in it. As you may recall, this currently has a shitty 2.80:1 gear ratio in it...

 

So what to do? I bought an Explorer 8.8" diff with 3.73 gears and disc brakes. 😁

 

large.20200403_090445.jpg.e3d2171c1a2a30

 

 

If we can make this work, then that gets me a diff with tons of aftermarket support, and big disc brakes all around...  😁

Edited by datsunfreak
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TL:DR, sometimes old cars are very frustrating. 

 

I tried to get some work done on this on Saturday, so I started with stripping down the left side spindle of all unnecessary bits. That went well, until we got to the seized-in-place upper ball joint...  🤔

 

If you recall, the right side upper ball joint was also seized, but we were able to get it out fairly easily with a mix of heat and hammers. This side was having none of that...

 

Tried heat and hammers for an hour, got nothing. Tried to press it out with the big hydraulic press for an hour, got nothing (and bent three tools in the process). Tried drilling out the center of it to see if it would release after that, got nothing. 

 

I finally said screw it, asked Tim to see if he could find a tapered reamer at the nearby auto parts supply, and starting drilling it all the way out to the size of the ball joint. At this point, I was thinking that if it was this stuck in there, we might as well just make a "new" hole for the ball joint. 

 

I clamped it in the drill press with the hole centered and started drilling with progressively bigger bits until I got to the size of the tip of the ball joint, with the intention of then remaking the taper to fit the joint. As it turns out, on the very last drill bit, I got about 90% through and noticed what looked like a huge piece of metal shavings fly off the bit. That "metal shaving"? Yeah, it was what was left of the old ball joint. So as this point the hole is good, and the new joint slides in and fits fine. 

 

The ass kicker is that this one tiny job took up basically my whole day at the shop, and afterwards I realized that if I had just started with the drill press, it would've taken 10 minutes to do...

 

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20 minutes ago, Lockleaf said:

Hows the explorer axle wms compare to stock on this car?

 

It is favorable in my opinion. Stock axle is 61.0", Explorer is 59.75". 

 

That means the wheel mounting surface moves in 5/8" per side, but I checked and I do have the clearance for it. I am also planning to use some 1.25" spacers I have to push it back out even further than I am now. 

 

Also, this front brake kit moves the wheel out 1/4", so that coupled with the 3/4" spacers I have for the front should have me about as flush as possible all around with the current set-up (17x8 +0 with a 245/45-17). 

 

Current wheel set-up is not set in stone obviously. I am looking at a few different things. The front can fit a wheel up to 10" wide and a tire up to around 285, wider if I remove the inner fenders. The rear can take up to an 11" wheel with a tire around 305. 

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Found a pic online of a 245/60-15 on a '67 Galaxie (moredoor, but still), and that is good and bad. For the same reason...

 

large.29103535_950922361734612_500678636

 

 

After seeing that (and what's below), I think I am leaning heavily towards 15s and the widest tires I can fit and just going full blown race car with this...

 

Also spent way too much time down the rabbit hole of late 60s Trans Am cars, which I lust after mightily...

 

 

 

AZ15_r155_001.jpg

AZ15_r155_002.jpg

AZ15_r155_004.jpg

AZ15_r155_003.jpg

Edited by datsunfreak
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Got the right side back together at least...

 

Mocking up the bracket and rotor...

 

large.20200418_114113.jpg.23ae4f3c75753a

 

 

The kit comes with shims to level the bracket to the rotor face. Fortunately, only needed one on the top and none on the bottom...

 

large.20200418_114120.jpg.96cba1af2745b9

 

 

And got all that screwed together with loctite and the rotor on...

 

large.20200418_114104.jpg.3b12504f2f4ff8

 

 

And yes, that pic was taken before greasing the bearings, installing the rear grease seal, and installing the dust cap, which I did, but did not take a photo of...  😁

 

 

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