Jump to content

1967 Galaxie 500 Project


Recommended Posts

After remaking the seat rails with the seat mounted 3" farther back than before, I was worried I may have gotten greedy and gone too far back. As it turns out, they are in the exact right spot...  😋

 

20210929_170441.jpg.e5dc63620310cf1c529e9ff521946336.jpg

 

 

 

Now though they are far enough back that I think we need to add some supports to the trailing edge of the rail. Think I will do that with something like this...

'

httpwww.polyperformance.comimages7736_ma

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 500
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Made pedal stops (to limit up travel) for both pedals. They will get felt pads on them so it doesn't clank when you let off the pedal. Still need to sort out springs to hold them up, and install a brake light switch in that one on the right...

 

20211030_105749.jpg.0868fd6659b454f5b149b279f08d48f7.jpg

 

 

I was looking at the pin on the brake pedal for the master cylinder push rod to attach to and not liking where it was in relation to the master. Also did some research on the proper pedal ratio for non-boosted brakes (staying with a manual booster) and realized mine was quite a bit off. It was at 4.3:1, and ideally it needs to be between 5:1 and 6:1 for manual brakes on a car this size/weight to keep the pedal from being too hard. 5:1 would be firm side, 6:1 would be on the soft side. So I marked off where 5:1 is and where 5.2:1 is and debated...

 

 

20211030_111045.jpg.416b4d41d5d7885b3ad66001407b5521.jpg

 

 

Decided on 5:1 to guarantee maximum stroke on the pedal...

 

20211030_112824.jpg.f5689d13c1118e2a35054b75a8333945.jpg

 

 

Jammed in a bolt there to give it a look see...

 

20211030_113049.jpg.2d2dbaa39ccbf7520c3427c74b0b7057.jpg

 

 

Lines up much better with the master cylinder now also. Hard to tell from that pic (couldn't get a good angle, in a tight spot) but it is well centered with the hole through the range of the pedal...

 

While I was doing that I was looking at a similar issue with the clutch pedal. To get the pedal in the perfect spot left-to-right for maximum stroke, it is a little too far to the right to line up perfectly with the clutch master cylinder push rod. So decided some mods were in order there also. Removed stock push rod pin...

 

20211030_120958.jpg.02ec65b6ad1ae3f41be76765745b3669.jpg

 

 

Jammed a bolt in there and gave it a test run...

 

20211030_121049.jpg.803adb1c9d812f9987dfb840ec5b6245.jpg

 

 

This let me move the push rod clevis a little to the left so it has a straight push into the master cylinder. 👍

 

I bought some shouldered bolts to use for this so those will get welded in and trimmed to the right length. This way the clevis rides on the smooth shoulder, not the threads of the bolt. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment

Well, I bought some bolts for the pins...

 

20211106_110820.jpg.0d29a111a1e1226e22ed9d5a920b5cd3.jpg

 

 

Then I sort of changed my mind on how to do it. Got to thinking about how Nissan does it, and decided I want to use these style clips instead...

 

20211106_110830.jpg.310e6c416843d8535885d8c9c40e9256.jpg

 

 

Then got some longer bolts and cut the threads off...

 

20211106_110838.jpg.8c206b49777374b395ec8fad7faeb22f.jpg

 

 

I fit those up the car to mark where the pushrod needs to be on the "pin" and drilled a hole in each one for the clip. Then Tim welded them in for me...

 

20211106_113450.jpg.c0f7e5d4d8c3feba8b3222e6ec2e51f5.jpg

 

 

And both done...

 

20211106_121735.jpg.5d7f477937df8e12617471f6af703eb4.jpg

 

 

Clutch push rod lines up much better now...

 

20211106_122917.jpg.0ae4029d057b98a3f1bdf8465e9c59e8.jpg

 

 

As does brake push rod...

 

20211106_123022.jpg.fada486a842962e34a9160abdb26df60.jpg

 

 

Pulled them both back out again to paint them in preparation for (hopefully) the final install. I still need to confirm the proper length for the brake master push rod, and that means installing the brake master cylinder now. Decided that in an effort to keep it from looking crusty later, I would go ahead and paint it...

 

20211106_130157.jpg.69ef3ee00ceff700a6fd4cfeb9349873.jpg

 

 

It also has outlets on both sides, so I need to decided which side to plug as soon as it's installed. Hoping to get that bolted in on Wednesday so I can install the pedals for the last time...

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
On 11/6/2021 at 5:19 PM, datsunfreak said:

Hoping to get that bolted in on Wednesday so I can install the pedals for the last time...

 

Well, I was half right...

 

20211110_165502.jpg.f94a1d771bdcefaf73913cf3f9e9f1cd.jpg

 

 

After that, it took a lot of cussing and fussing to not only get the brake pedal push rod to the right length, but to make it (hopefully) match the pedal height of the clutch. I think I am there, but with the daylight savings time change (and lack of lighting outside the shop), I wasn't able to do the final nut and bolt. The brake pedal is at a good height and moves smoothly though it's arc, and the pedal/master bottoms out with the pedal about 1/2" off the floor so we are definitely getting full stroke. With the clutch pedal at the same resting height as the brake it bottoms out about 2" off the floor. Tim feels this is too high, I am undecided. We may add a pedal stop to it somewhere to prevent bottoming out that master. 

 

The return spring inside the brake master is very strong, so I don't think it needs one on the pedal, just a bump stop at the top. I will probably add a return spring for the clutch pedal though, as it's a bit weaker, but it may just be old and worn out? It was purchased used just for mock-up purposes and will be replaced with a new one shortly.

 

I also need to remember to install a brake light switch in the pedal bump stop and to add a flange on the pedal to trip the switch before the "final" install. 😁 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I made a little thing...

 

20211113_093413.jpg.7288f3154c292904856eacb8cda917c1.jpg

 

 

Tapped those two holes with an M6 tap, then drilled two corresponding holes in the brake pedal, then bolted the two together...

 

20211113_100422.jpg.f4fd2ff713b0aa2f9e1eea92e44ec4ff.jpg

 

 

Why you may ask? To trigger a Datsun brake light switch, which will mount like so...

 

20211113_113625.jpg.aee1e4522a32da43c114d42a8b6cadbd.jpg

 

 

I now need to re-drill the mounting holes for that pedal bumper/switch mounting plate, because...

 

I decided the pedals were just a bit too high for my liking and dropped them down an inch lower than before...  😄

 

20211113_115308.jpg.80338f95e548b8d6fb6861e5c5bb1572.jpg

 

 

Brake pedal now bottoms out the master right when the pedal hits the floor (should never go that low once functional), and the clutch pedal bottoms out the master when it's about 1/2" from hitting the floor. That should be low enough to preclude having a pedal stop at the bottom, but I won't worry about that until it's drivable. No sense fixing a problem that doesn't exist, and may never...

 

Clutch pedal push rod shimmed for best alignment and function. It's a bit ugly, but none of it is visible once the dash is in...

 

20211113_115246.jpg.e3424b948d394f90caabab21aa85cf32.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, I did not have any shims for the brake pedal push rod, so still a bit more work to do there...

 

20211113_122857.jpg.15479f1c454e93efdca150f9712e840a.jpg

 

 

Pedals were actually bolted in for the last time, just the peripherals to go now.

 

Need to get cracking on finishing the dash soon, as well as getting the engine/trans prepped for install...

Edited by datsunfreak
  • Like 5
Link to comment
6 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

I am starting to get the feeling no one but me is interested in all this tedious little shit...  😄

 

Hopefully I will have something sexier for you guys soon...

 

I enjoy when a photo dump comes. 

 

I see you used the same Datsun brake switch I used on my ford. 

 

 

Edited by Mattndew76
  • Like 1
Link to comment
6 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

I am starting to get the feeling no one but me is interested in all this tedious little shit...  😄

 

Hopefully I will have something sexier for you guys soon...

 

I enjoy the detail quite a bit.  I have been accused of paying attention to the details a bit too much, but I like stuff done correctly.

 

I usually drop some likes, but I don't always have much to add to the commentary.

 

Please continue, and know that there are certainly more then myself who enjoy the updates. 

 

😎 👍

Edited by Duncan
  • Like 2
Link to comment
9 hours ago, Mattndew76 said:

I see you used the same Datsun brake switch I used on my ford. 

 

I had this one set aside for Tim's 1200, but he decided on a different type of switch. I was googling around and discovered that this type of switch is not only still available new from Beck/Arnley, but it was used on almost every Japanese car from the 70s and 80s. At least this way, if it goes bad, it will be easy to source another one. 👍

 

And I did test it first. 😄

 

8 hours ago, Duncan said:

Please continue, and know that there are certainly more then myself who enjoy the updates. 

 

Thank you sir.  😁

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Like Duncan and Lockleaf, I am fascinated with most every installment, but don’t always have a witty retort.

 

So, yeah, keep us posted.

 

We are all eager to see the first start and first drive videos.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
23 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Funny, I've never really had second thoughts, until I saw this while scrolling through instagram today...   😄

 

 

I've always like the look of those.  That one is cool, but I've never cared too much for the lambo doors myself.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I'm suspect of the long term functioning of those doors and the Lambo door kits. GM was never able to build a T-Top that didn't end up leaking, and the retractable roof in the Blazer(?) XUV was a more recent example. Show car cool for sure. That said, I'll be guilty of an aftermarket retractable sunroof in my build (eventually, the hole already exists) which I intend to add in a bunch of reinforecements to keep it more rigid.

 

I'm warning myself, hope I'll listen!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
13 hours ago, EDM620 said:

GM was never able to build a T-Top that didn't end up leaking

 

I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋

 

13 hours ago, EDM620 said:

I'll be guilty of an aftermarket retractable sunroof in my build (eventually, the hole already exists) which I intend to add in a bunch of reinforcements to keep it more rigid.

 

If you're talking about the truck, I would think as long as it's something with a full frame, the roof is a lot less "structural"? Or it is just introducing leaks you're worried about?

Link to comment
10 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋

 

 

If you're talking about the truck, I would think as long as it's something with a full frame, the roof is a lot less "structural"? Or it is just introducing leaks you're worried about?

Yea mostly concerned about keeping it watertight, the sunroof that was already in it amazingly was leak-free considering how rotten the gasket was. I expect I'll need to make some internal frame for the headliner to properly hang from, so adding some roof stiffening to the sheetmetal is in the plan. This outward retracting sunroof is a very big opening and has potential for doubling as a spoiler, stress loading the roof skin some.

Part ID (factory/aftermarket/panoramic) - Sunroof Express

It's like this, and fully open will extend beyond the roof. Water leaks wrecks shit so fast and was #1 reason for 620 floors to rot out, though that leaks comes from the cowl rotting out first.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
On 11/16/2021 at 8:52 AM, Lockleaf said:

I with Duncan.  I read every post, I just don't always have something useful to add. 

I enjoy the direction you're going with this build and always liked that body with the angled forward aggressive front end. I'm often looking from my phone as I'm on the highway daily, don't respond unless I'm on my computer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
On 11/18/2021 at 5:56 AM, datsunfreak said:

 

I know on the old Camaros/Firebirds the joke was you could never do a burnout with them off the car, as it would make them leak. 😋

 

 

I've owned a couple of Corvettes and everyone of them with T-tops leaked.  I even bought a brand new '91, and it leaked right from new.  I've never heard anyone mention it before, (until now) but I always assumed the rest of the GM offerings did the same...

 

Link to comment
On 11/17/2021 at 3:58 PM, EDM620 said:

I'm suspect of the long term functioning of those doors and the Lambo door kits.

 

Before I bought my '40 Ford, I looked at similar era cars.  A lot of those cars had been converted to electric windows, and/or had shaved door handles with the solenoid openers that stopped working.  If I saw a car with either of those mods, it was an immediate deal killer.  A lot of that stuff is cheap Chinese junk. 

 

The '80's and "90's were not kind to a lot of cars...

 

 

Link to comment
23 hours ago, Duncan said:

 

I've owned a couple of Corvettes and everyone of them with T-tops leaked.  I even bought a brand new '91, and it leaked right from new.  I've never heard anyone mention it before, (until now) but I always assumed the rest of the GM offerings did the same...

 

They all do, unless you never take them off.  😁

 

Oddly, never seen this problem with Japanese cars. Their T-tops seem to be mostly leak free...

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.