datsunfreak Posted January 13 Author Report Share Posted January 13 9 hours ago, Rustbin said: I would have carpeted the seat back area with about an inch folding over the top, then done the parcel tray as a separate piece and rolled the front edge under the hardboard. This would have made it three pieces which are easier to handle. Yes, in hindsight this would have been a better plan, and I did consider it. My initial reasoning was that the parcel tray needs to be screwed down on the ends and I didn't want the screws visible. But it would have made for less wrinkles in the end, and a much easier install. If the wrinkles prove to be too much of a deal breaker, I may take it out and redo it in this fashion. Somehow, in my addled brain, this seemed like the "easier" way... 😅 Quote Link to comment
Rustbin Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 In the upholstery shop we used Ford panel clips for interior panel in all makes because we could get new ones very readily, McMaster Carr probably has them and they would hold down the parcel tray nicely instead of screws. 1 Quote Link to comment
EDM620 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 1 hour ago, Rustbin said: Ford panel clips Are those the metal clips? Quote Link to comment
Rustbin Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 22 hours ago, EDM620 said: Are those the metal clips? Yes, kind of bent wire thing that works in a lot of applications. I found a number Dorman 700-399 door panel retainer. Quote Link to comment
Duncan Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 This company also makes door hardware and clips for any situation. Their printed catalog is huge. I imagine their online catalog might be as well, but I didn't look. https://www.auveco.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Rustbin Posted January 17 Report Share Posted January 17 A thing to remember when making placement holes in the panel is they need to be offset from the sheet metal hole. An easy way to lay them out is to make a mark where the hole is in the sheet metal from the back side, then make the hole in the panel using the clip for reference. Also you can locate the clips to line up to the marks for easier installation. I only have a Datsun panel to show the offset. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 23 Author Report Share Posted February 23 The tool I needed to smush the flush rivets was going to be $60-80. I found a punch that does the same thing for $9, got a clamp from harbor freight for $8, and with some drilling and welding, just made my own tool... And it works pretty good... Right side panel riveted together and test fit... Cut a little slot in it... Slot is for a door pull made of seat belt fabric... Door panel wrapped in 1/8" foam, then suede... 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted February 23 Author Report Share Posted February 23 (edited) Driver's side panel finished and installed... Rear panels riveted together... Right side wrapped and installed... Left side wrapped and installed... At this point it was time for carpet, but we still needed to make one more thing. Got that thing done... Then put down a layer of sound/heat insulation (no pic), and finished laying the carpet... It's done in two pieces, one from the rear floor to just in front of the shifter/seat (glued down), then a front piece that overlaps by about 6" (not glued down). It comes up to the front edge of the seat/shifter, so shouldn't be too visible once the seats are installed. He is going to order some repro door sill plates and that should finish it off. Last thing I did was one more little finishing touch. I could not find the little bracket that holds the visors on in the center, and while I was cleaning out the car to do the carpet, it magically turned up! So I got it screwed on, scrubbed down the visors, and put a bit of paint on them, They were originally a teal color, which wasn't going to work in this all black interior... Edited February 23 by datsunfreak 5 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 I don't think I shared this before, so... While I was fussing with the door panels, the current owner installed the rear springs I suggested (300lb vs 225lb). It did raise the rear one inch. This took the stance from level to a very slight rake. Gaps are more level now, though. Front gap showing about half the tire... Rear gap showing about 1/3 of the tire... Hard to tell from the tight confines there, but it was a definite improvement in looks, as well as functionality. Rear doesn't bounce around anywhere near as much, and it's no longer bumping the brake calipers on the frame rails. 👌 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 24 Author Report Share Posted March 24 Now that the seats are back in, I could finish a few things on the front half. Dug the kick panels out of storage, but noticed one of them had a crack in it... Decided the simplest fix was to line the inside with 2-3 layers of aluminum tape... Filled the front side with epoxy, then painted it... Got that installed, thankfully it's the passenger side so it won't see much abuse. Also, driver side painted and in... Finally re-installed these two trim pieces to give the dash a more completed look. Yes, I see the dirty fingerprint, and yes it wiped off, and yes the column needs the paint touched up... 😄 Other side, had to add a screw since the HVAC controls are no longer there to hold it in place... And where I left it. I think this is all we are doing to the inside, so updates to this thread may become very infrequent. 😁 Door scuff plates should be here in a week, though, so may post a few pics of that. Still waiting on him to get the exaust done so we can give it a proper shakedown drive. 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 6 Author Report Share Posted April 6 On 3/24/2026 at 7:13 AM, datsunfreak said: Door scuff plates should be here in a week, though, so may post a few pics of that. 2 Quote Link to comment
Netshark993 Posted May 7 Report Share Posted May 7 On 3/17/2026 at 2:17 PM, datsunfreak said: I don't think I shared this before, so... While I was fussing with the door panels, the current owner installed the rear springs I suggested (300lb vs 225lb). It did raise the rear one inch. This took the stance from level to a very slight rake. Gaps are more level now, though. Front gap showing about half the tire... Rear gap showing about 1/3 of the tire... Hard to tell from the tight confines there, but it was a definite improvement in looks, as well as functionality. Rear doesn't bounce around anywhere near as much, and it's no longer bumping the brake calipers on the frame rails. 👌 She's stances similarly to mine. I have 2.5" drop spindles up front and 2" drop springs from eaton in the rear. The bigger tires on the rear of mine add more rake though. Glad to see more progress! I hadn't checked in for quite a while 3 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 19 Author Report Share Posted May 19 On 5/7/2026 at 9:49 AM, Netshark993 said: She's stances similarly to mine. I have 2.5" drop spindles up front I thought about drop spindles, but since I was originally planning to run 15" wheels, I thought lowering springs would be better. Kinda wish I had done the spindles and used stock disc brakes. Because... Owner noticed the brake pedal getting really spongy, and asked if I could take a look at it for him. Jacked it up to inspect the brakes, since the front reservior was half empty, and noticed a bit of fluid running down the caliper and collecting on the lower bolt... It was the elbow adapter to make the 3AN lines hook up to the Wilwood caliper. I tightened it half a turn, bled both front calipers again, and that seems to have fixed it so far... While we had it up in the air, we did another thing that we've wanted to do ever since we finished the interior, and that is get a fully loaded weight for it! 927 RF 919 LF 834 RR 818 LR We previosuly swapped the rear springs from 225lb to 300lb, but it was still waaaaay too soft, so we thought step one was to get the corner weights. After crunching some numbers and consulting a few people I know who are good at this sort of thing, looks like we need springs closer to 450 (or even 500 🫢), due to the curb weight, and the fact that the front springs are around 450lb wheel rate (which feels perfect). Based on those readings we are sitting at 3,498, which isn't too shabby since the stock weight is around 3,750. 👌 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 19 Report Share Posted May 19 Why is the bleeder pointing downward??? Are the calipers swapped side to side?? I installed my '84 Maxima front calipers on my 710 this way, but caught the mistake before finishing bolting them up. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 20 Author Report Share Posted May 20 14 hours ago, datzenmike said: Why is the bleeder pointing downward??? Are the calipers swapped side to side?? Wilwood calipers are "universal", as in they have 4 bleeders, two up two down. That way you can use them on either side, and in almost any orientation. 👌 2 Quote Link to comment
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