G-Duax Posted August 13, 2019 Report Share Posted August 13, 2019 12 hours ago, TimmyG said: I found a rust free body yesterday for cheap... I hate you..... (joke) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 14, 2019 Report Share Posted August 14, 2019 6 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: No, you can move the crank with the head off, but do it carefully so you don't lose the tensioner. I completely understand your desire to keep it simple, but you also have to understand the risk vs reward. Dropping a pan to inspect a bearing or two will take an hour, and then re-sealing it with the right stuff will guarantee it will never leak. Two hours tops. Note - some people recommend using a pan gasket, and that is how they came from the factory, but since I found the right stuff RTV, I have stopped using the gaskets altogether. It really is that good. I have a feeling this is an old well worn engine and not worth the bother right now. Hasn't been seen running, no compression numbers, no history, just a probable rebuildable block with a blown HG (or intake leaking coolant) Looks like it sat some time with water in the cylinder(s) and some of the exhaust ports are sooty for burning something. Honing the worn cylinders with worn rings and checking the bearings is beating a dead horse only to find you have to rebuild it any way. So fire it up and see, or dive in all the way and use it for a proper rebuild. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 14, 2019 Report Share Posted August 14, 2019 Doing that prescribed work follows the three rules of wrenching - now, cheap or good. Pick two. Really? Spending 10 minutes to ball hone and two hours to R&R the oil pan and check a few bearings is beating a dead horse? From the sounds of his early comments, he wanted to save every penny. Now obviously, things have changed. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 14, 2019 Report Share Posted August 14, 2019 If you knew this engine had been rebuilt in the recent past or was a low mileage runner that could be saved... maybe. Right now it's a total unknown. Gluing the pan on will just make it harder to get off later. I see no wisdom in ball honing a worn cylinder (that may be tapered or out of round) and rings (possibly seized, broken or tired and not controlling compression or oil) hoping this will fix anything that might be wrong. It will either run well enough as is or it won't. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 14, 2019 Report Share Posted August 14, 2019 This is where you and I tend to fall off the tracks. Let's reiterate the OP's original intentions - to save a buck while rescuing a motor. All of the action items I suggested were in the spirit of saving time and money while optimizing the potential for bringing it back to life. You seriously can't see spending a few hours to save some money as time well spent? You'd rather not do those things and throw the dice? I love gambling, but sweat equity is free and can only increase your chances of success. Yes, I get irritated when suggestions are made to not try something. 1 Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2019 I appreciate all the advice, ideas, and trains of thought. Everyone makes their point. In light of finding a truck body that doesn't have terminal rust, I will likely keep this motor for the long term. Before I was unsure if I would just resell the truck in the short term and just find another whole truck with less body rust. After locating the other truck with better body, I can justify rebuilding this entire engine and keeping it. I just have to swap the body onto my 2wd frame. Go ahead and call me crazy. I'm ready. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 15, 2019 Report Share Posted August 15, 2019 7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: This is where you and I tend to fall off the tracks. Let's reiterate the OP's original intentions - to save a buck while rescuing a motor. All of the action items I suggested were in the spirit of saving time and money while optimizing the potential for bringing it back to life. You seriously can't see spending a few hours to save some money as time well spent? You'd rather not do those things and throw the dice? I love gambling, but sweat equity is free and can only increase your chances of success. Yes, I get irritated when suggestions are made to not try something. On 8/12/2019 at 9:59 AM, TimmyG said: I would rather not pull the timing cover, etc. I'd like to keep this rebuild solely in the top end for budget purposes. I may not keep the truck very long, and if I do...I'm not opposed to tearing the whole motor down again for full rebuild. Just not yet. It's not a primary vehicle. Just a side hobby. This was the original intention. Fix the blown HG and, I assume, get it running not half re-build it. Running, you can do a compression check and assess if it needs to be re-built... or not 2 Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2019 I will probably start a build thread, but for thos following this...here's the latest rescue 😂 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 15, 2019 Report Share Posted August 15, 2019 Sweet! That's actually a pretty clean truck. 2 Quote Link to comment
TimmyG Posted August 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2019 39 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Sweet! That's actually a pretty clean truck. 😎😎😎 1 Quote Link to comment
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